PRod Trigger Group on 13XX or 22XX

[AllanWJ]

Thanks Bob. I was almost ready to live with a simple lightened trigger spring until I went to a heavier hammer spring. Looking forward to seeing how the p-rod trigger does.

Allan

[MustangMike]

allen

dont forget to cut the lip in the top of the hammer to clear the breech screw.. the force of the hammer will bend the breech screw that sticks down in to the tube and thats just as bad as a stripped breech screw

[AllanWJ]

Will do Mike. Thanks for your input in the thread. I may have found out about that the hard way.

Allan

[1377x]

the 1399 stock fits also just in case you want to go carbine/rifle

[MustangMike]

prod/challenger hammer with the lip cut for the breech screw... when ordering this order ur self the striker as well if you just plug the hole flush with the hammer you loose the extra adjustment feature for the hammer throw. adding adjustments its good if you can since it helps with tuning

im using the challenger\prod hammer in my carbine

[OldmanJunky]

I talked to Dez and Gene today about the JB Weld usage and they were both concerned about it becoming brittle and crumbling over time.

So maybe I need to investigate the p-rod hammer idea.

[1377x]

I talked to Dez and Gene today about the JB Weld usage and they were both concerned about it becoming brittle and crumbling over time.

So maybe I need to investigate the p-rod hammer idea.

what kind of time line are you talking about?
the jbweld i use has been holding up for 4 years in a hostile environment,with no sign of wear or degeneration.i used it to fill a missing chunk of metal in some moving parts,where the jbweld is making contact with other metal very frequently.also have some filling a long crack on an oil pan its been holing up for the last 3 years got worried when the engine was dropped on the ground but it held up.a friend is using some on a cracked intake manifold no issues
the industro version is the stuff i use for aggressive applications.i use it on a lot of metal as a weld.i dropped the parts expecting them to break and they still held up to the test of time, so far.not done on purpose
in my uneducated opinion the stuff works for everything i use it for.may be dumb luck
if you are really concerned you have other options
mellonair made me a solid hammer for my 2289g.it was cheaper than the jbweld i use
for 22xx guns there is the challenger striker set up and if you ask mellonair will more than likely make up a 22xx solid hammer
i have been using the 1701p trigger group since nov'11 and imo its the best trigger mod that can be done for the crosman pistols.nothing says aahhhh like a 2 stage trigger

[ezman604]

My concerns are that a hammer is in quite a different enviornment than say an oil pan crack or intake manifold crack. A hammer is going to be slamming and vibrating quite a bit. I could be wrong and Dave (grumpy) made a good point that a lot depends on getting the correct mix when using it. I'm just concerned (and admit it COULD be needlessly) about any epoxy compound used in a slamming/vibrating surface inside an airgun. It may be fine, I'm just going by my experience with epoxies over the years. I would rather replace the hammer than take a chance on having a chunk of JB Weld floating around inside my airgun.
But hey, I've been wrong before and will be again.
Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
 

[MustangMike]

I will post a picture of my disco hammer after about 1000 pellets there is signs of wear but its not to to bad. But yes I've got me another challeneger hammer and striker on the way from crosman... cut a lip in it for the breech screw and ur good to go, plus if ur wanting to detune a disco for more shots you adjust the hammer throw using a challenger hammer and striker..


To go another with 1377's comment about jb weld on car parts. I bought a brand new intake system for a 03-04 mustang, got sent a 94-98 intake and gave up trying to fight with the ebay seller to replace it.. the only difference between the years is the 94-98 has a sensor mount via a hole in the top of the airtube. I plugged that hole with some stick jb weld 3yrs ago. Its held up just fine, no cracks, even took the pipe of to check for how its standing up on the inside of the tube and its held up fine..

[MustangMike]

You can see the wear from the sear

[1377x]

thats pretty ugly!
  a couple of my applications are in slamming environments.and im mean a lot of slamming about 15 cycles per second.after 4 years of this no wear and tear on the jb weld.where the jb is located if the slamming was going to wear it out the machine will quit working.so far so good
i might add a friend has the same machine and the same part broke.he tried to fix it with the regular tubes of jb weld.i wasnt there when he mixed it applied it but it showed damage like mikes hammer and i could put a gouge in it with my fingernail
 use the indistro version of jb weld it resists shock and vibration,thats what made me get it the other jbwelds didnt say that on the package
http://jbweld.net/products/industro.php
it might be just jb weld but it has a 4-6 our set time and can be used after 15 hours but i let mine it for at least 24 hours
another thing i do is weigh the two parts so i get an even mixture.when i used the other jbwelds i would eyeball it and end up with things looking like mikes hammer.too much or too little of one part makes an inferior product
speaking of which it looks like there was an underlying issue there should be a dent only where the sear rides in this case
where did the other dent come from? there may be several things going on not cured long enough,air pocket improper mixture
i have had parts not turn out, the jbweld didnt do what it was supposed to but it was operator error that caused it.just the other day i eyeballed a mix of jb quick weld and it didnt harden properly.i ended up wasting a lot because i had to weigh it. just to get it to register on the scale i had to use more than i needed but it turned out better.another thing was it was humid and that hampered drying time
not scientific but if i can gouge it with my nail something is not right
my dad would be rolling around in his grave if he knew i wasnt being precise,with him everything was precision

[MustangMike]

i tried the nail gouging thing back when i did this and it had dried over night and even did it right after pulling it out night before last. i can even scratch it with my nail so thats not the problem it just over time the sear dragging across it, i cant feel through the trigger so i didnt think it was catching

bottem line i order a new challenger hammer and strike and will dremel grind the lip to clear the breech screw and then i know i have a hammer and trigger/sear setup designed for each other.. no more issues

[OldmanJunky]

i tried the nail gouging thing back when i did this and it had dried over night and even did it right after pulling it out night before last. i can even scratch it with my nail so thats not the problem it just over time the sear dragging across it, i cant feel through the trigger so i didnt think it was catching

bottem line i order a new challenger hammer and strike and will dremel grind the lip to clear the breech screw and then i know i have a hammer and trigger/sear setup designed for each other.. no more issues

What dremel bits and what's your setup to clamp it all down?  I can dremel, but I'd like to know someone else's setup (usually I eyeball dremel stuff).

[MustangMike]

I'm going to use the pinkish grinding stones, and use a clamp and 2in thick peice of wood. Clamp the hammer to that and then screw the wood down to a make shift work table.. it will be secure..

[breakfastchef]

I've had good luck with the JB Weld epoxy putty. You just cut off a small bit, knead it, roll it out into the shape of a rod, wrap in the waist of the hammer and start pressing. I then wet a surface with water and roll the hammer to insure the putty is well set with no airspaces. After 24 hours, I find something that fits into the spring hole of the hammer, wedge it in, chuck it in a drill or drill press and start sanding until level and smooth. If you have concerns the JB Weld needs some additional strength, put on a thin coating of cyanoacrylate (i.e. Super Glue).

To create a notch to clear the breech screw, I used a benchtop grinder. You can use a Dremel, but you will need several grinding bits. The hardened steel is, well, really hard. Work slow and dip in water if it gets too hot.

[MustangMike]

i dont have access to a bench grinder so i may look around and see if i can find some one here on the gta to do this who has more capable tools

[AllanWJ]

Just a followup. I installed my p-rod trigger today in my 2240 - it's well worth the few bucks. I thought I'd mention that the p-rod hammer does not need a notch if the breech screw is in the forward location and other than lengthening the slot for the sear, the trigger assembly and hammer are plug and play. I think the the price of the hammer and striker are worth the extra cost.

HUGE difference in the two triggers! I like it.

Allan 

[1377x]

awj,
you had to make the sear longer on the 2240,why?
was the sear not catching like on a 13xx

[MustangMike]

When using the prod trigger group you either have to enlongate the slot for the sear in the bottem of the tube or cut down a a part of the sear..

[AllanWJ]

awj,
you had to make the sear longer on the 2240,why?
was the sear not catching like on a 13xx

Not the sear, just the slot in the tube. There's a section of the sear that doesn't clear the tube and will keep the gun from cocking unless you either lengthen the slot about 1/4 inch or do something like Bob mentioned and file down the tube just in front of the slot. Kind of hard to explain without pictures, but it's readily apparent if you have the parts in your hand. It's a 5 minute job if you have a dremel and some 3/16 diameter stones.

Allan