Be carefull if you run a cleaning patch thru the bore on the Sniper...

[fortyshooter]

Apparently that "device" on the end of the barrel is the real deal. I decided to run a cleaning patch down the bore,from breech end,just to check for any rust/shipping debris. The patch got hung up in the louvers that are cut into the plastic "device" wall. Apparently the diameter opens up right at the end of the barrel,as it goes into that plastic "device". I shot several pellets thru and must have blown it out.
All well so far.

[Ray]

So your saying clean it from the muzzle break toward the breach is the safe?

Thanks Ray

[Raizer]

Use a drinking straw in the end of the moderator to stop your patches getting caught up.

[Ray]

Raizer you joking lol.Is a 22 cal cleaning rod going to fit in a straw?

[Raizer]

Oops, if it was a .177 then you use a drinking straw.
For a .22+ use bigger tubing.

[z28rod]

ok now iam switching from beer to jack..............

[Lambchops]

Yes, certain straws will work in .22 bores. For me i've found that the old McDonald's "red and yellow" striped straw fits perfect in the muzzle of my Stoeger X20s .22. It allows me to clean it safely. I don't see why it wouldn't work on Hatsan's "muzzle end".

[Charles Outdoors]

I'm waiting to see if anyone can take that thing off without tearing something up.

[Tarheel]

DO NOT use "CLEANING PELLETS" either . . . They will get caught in the chambers of the "device" !

The Stoeger X20S Suppressor has that same WARNING  !

Dave

[fortyshooter]

Use a drinking straw in the end of the moderator to stop your patches getting caught up.

Great idea!  It caught me by surprise,as I didn't think there were cutouts inside.

[fortyshooter]

Looks like the moderating insert could be easily removed,as it moves around freely,and is retained by a plastic lip.
Maybe a retaining C clip could have been used so you could remove it for barrel cleaning.
Calling it a moderator......isn't it what it really is? Anything that reduces said sound by only 1 Db,is consider a you know what....by the you know who!
How do they get by with selling the rifles this way....just asking.

[Tarheel]

Looks like the moderating insert could be easily removed,as it moves around freely,and is retained by a plastic lip.
Maybe a retaining C clip could have been used so you could remove it for barrel cleaning.
Calling it a moderator......isn't it what it really is? Anything that reduces said sound by only 1 Db,is consider a you know what....by the you know who!
How do they get by with selling the rifles this way....just asking.

Simple . . . the "legal" one's "toys" cannot be removed without destroying them . . .

Dave

[glennrae]

I had the same thing happen. Pushed a patch through from the breech end....and it did not come out. After the panic subsided and a slightly cooler more rational mind set in. I applied a puff of air from an air compressor to the breech end. Out it came!! Don't know if that would work every time? But it worked this time!

[fortyshooter]

I have since removed the internals of the device and inserted a plastic tube with no holes or louvers.
Cleaning is easy now! You can pop out the end cap with small screwdriver if you need to.

[JBird]

Yeah, i had that problem with my Hatsan 125 Sniper in .25 cal. I attempted to push some cleaning pellets through and some got hung up.  I had to disassemble the moderator which is held into place with a clipped front cover.  No big deal.   

[WHITEFANG]

Sadly your are all correct. Yes it does come apart very easy. BEWARE!!! By Hatsan, sadly you have voided your warranty by removing and reinstalling the brake inerds. Hatsan claims that if anything has been taken off on stock removed it is yours now. Could be wrong but that is what I was told from a source. If you decide to remove the complete system, it is held on by a large nut. The barrel  has a step down for the threads. Then the brake is held on again by another step up in the barrel. After removal of the nut the brake is now held on by kurling. Same as all the other HATSAN brakes which is the reason they are so hard to remove for what ever reason. At the rear of the brake you now have a thick washer that the brake rest against with another step up in the barrel tru OD. The nut you remove is a heavy nut and it is super tight. On mine they had cut the barrel even smaller behind the threads deeper (deep groove) than the threads so this is a very thin area between the end of the threads and the second step so be careful if you elect to remove the brake.
On mine the groove that was cut behind the threads was cut so deep that it had pushed the metal enough that I had a ring on tHE ID that your could see and feel with a thin tig wire pruturding inward. Yes I chopped the barrel at that area to fix the problem. After that I still had enough on the second step for the brake to be reinstalled. I drilled and tapped 2 holes at the rear of the brake and put allen set screws in them and now the brake is on and will not come loose. The gun haad gotten wild on the grouping and after the fix the gun is back to grouping a hole ina hole at 10 yards and good groups at 20 yards as well. Now this is a .25. So if all of a sudden you get to having bad grouping check for this. I may be the only one with this problem. I can not understand why they would remove more materail behind the threaded area. It serves no point only makes the barrel thinner behind the threaded connection. WHAT makes it worse is that is the area that when the nut was tightened it would be putting presser on it.

[fortyshooter]

I'll leave the original housing on there since it isn't causing me any issues,and helps with the cocking.
Just modified the internals for easier cleaning and a bit more sound.
So far it is really shooting well!