Regulator issue

[j.vesper.1953]

Another PCP Newbie question

I recently purchased a Hatsan regulator for my AT 44-10.  It brought the velocity down to about 870, initially, but no matter how much I adjust it won't go below about 860 fps. 

 I have it cranked in a full 1 1/2  turns which should have pressure down to about 750 atm. (bar) but nothing. 

Now for the question:  The brass fitting into which the adjustment screw is screwed is finger loose and significantly backed out. Should this be  screwed all the way down,  or is this the actual adjustment?   (I've been screwing the adjustment screw into this, rather than turning the whole thing.)  Is this where I'm going wrong?

Thanks in advance, and please pardon my ignorance.

[mikeyb]

https://hatsanairgunsusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/RegInstall2018.pdf

The factory regulator may not have been the best choice for your desired output? Looks like you are trying to use it pretty far outside Hatsan's suggested range.

Factory setting 125BAR (~1800 psi)

1 BAR ~ 14.5 psi

1/2 turn = 25 BAR ~ 360 psi

-1/2 turn from factory setting = 100 BAR ~1450 psi

-1.5 turns from factory setting = 50 BAR ~750 psi

*It is not recommended to adjust the regulator below 100 BAR, or above 150 BAR — as the regulator may not
operate as expected outside of this pressure range.

[mikeyb]

I've had very good results with "my" Hatsans by simply adjusting the hammer spring preload on my UNregulated air tubes. Pellet velocity WILL BE A CURVE, so NOT a perfectly flat line. For MY shooting requirements a shot string starting and ending in the high 700fps range with a "fairly level middle" range no more than about 850fps is all I need. Maybe 6+ mags/fill in 177 and 4+ mags/fill in 22. If I recall correctly my last adjustment for the 25 cal was just under 4 mags(?).

My actual mag-count per fill depends on the rifles air tube size and the magazine capacity (AT44short 180cc, AT44long 230cc, BT65/Galatian 255cc).

The Hatsan REGULATOR set to the lower "Hatsan approved" limit AND a proper hammer spring preload adjustment "should" get you what you want.

[j.vesper.1953]

 Thanks guys, but it ISN'T adjusting, inside  or outside the recommended limits.  That's why I'm wondering about the brass fitting

[Deadrise Skiff]

The adjustment of the regulator has a nut with dots machined into it above the beville washers,
and the threaded portion with the straight screwdriver slot.
You need to keep the nut from spinning when you tighten or loosen with the screwdriver, or hold the screwdriver still and move the nut left or right. measure or count how many threads are showing above the nut to now where you started to have a baseline, and a spot to go back to if needed. I apply permanent marker to the dot on the nut closest to the groove of the slot for screwdriver as reference as well.

[j.vesper.1953]

The adjustment of the regulator has a nut with dots machined into it above the beville washers,
and the threaded portion with the straight screwdriver slot.
You need to keep the nut from spinning when you tighten or loosen with the screwdriver, or hold the screwdriver still and move the nut left or right. measure or count how many threads are showing above the nut to now where you started to have a baseline, and a spot to go back to if needed. I apply permanent marker to the dot on the nut closest to the groove of the slot for screwdriver as reference as well.

 That's what I'm talking about.  Should that not be tightened down all the way?