Sheridan Blue Streak "C" rebuild

[sweatyk]

I need a little guidance. I'm just now starting to reassemble this rifle but I bought the seal kit approximately 12 years ago. I have the front end in with the new pump cup and pump handle reattached. I'm starting on the back end and there is a significant difference in the new check valve in comparison to the original. Being a newbie I don't think I can post pictures at this point but I'm looking for some advice. The new one is of course flat brass on one side and the black rubber side is completely flat also. The original has a center post with a black rubber seal around it. Would like to know before I start the assembly if I have the correct one. Same diameter but the new one is slightly thicker too. Has anyone had this before? If the pictures attach then the one on the left is the original.

[Back_Roads]

 it will work, some rebuild kits come with a white disc of Delrin as the intake valve.

[sweatyk]

Since posting this I did start the process and started installing things. I got the check valve in with the 2 springs and washers. When I got to the valve I had a hard time trying to get the threads to catch. Pulled it out and the lead ring was a bit boogered up. I dont think it's too bad and I might can straighten it up enough to work. I did read on another thread that someone said getting that in position is an art form.......I believe them. If it wont work is there a source for just single parts or would I have to purchase another kit to get one?

[Back_Roads]

 I have reused the original lead seal on one I rebuilt, so I do have a spare plastic seal from a kit. I have also used a proper fitting oring and got a good seal also.

[sweatyk]

My original is not in terrible shape and might get used if I can't get this one in good. I do have another question.....when I disassembled mine there were 2 washers between the springs where there is normally 1. With the new check valve being thicker than the original would it be ok to just use 1 washer between the springs? I don't know if that extra thickness would make it difficult to get the nut started.

Forgive me for the dumb questions. This is my first rebuild of an airgun, however I tear down everything to repair it.....I just have a curious nature

[sweatyk]

One other question. What type of grease is safe to use to help hold the rubber and lead o-rings in place on he valve while trying to install?

[sweatyk]

One other question. What type of grease is safe to use to help hold the rubber and lead o-rings in place on he valve while trying to install?

Would dielectric grease work for this application?

[Van]

My original is not in terrible shape and might get used if I can't get this one in good. I do have another question.....when I disassembled mine there were 2 washers between the springs where there is normally 1. With the new check valve being thicker than the original would it be ok to just use 1 washer between the springs? I don't know if that extra thickness would make it difficult to get the nut started.

Forgive me for the dumb questions. This is my first rebuild of an airgun, however I tear down everything to repair it.....I just have a curious nature

According to UJ's repair manual some guns do have two washers between the springs.  When I rebuilt my Sheridan per that manual it shows to start the nut place the tool and nut in the tube action and hold the tube vertical while pressing down on the work bench and slowly rotate the tube action itself until the threads catch.  This helps overcome the valve intake spring resistance. I ditched the lead seals and used Teflon washers instead.  They hold air indefinitely where the lead did not in my gun.

[eeler1]

The theory is that petroleum based grease or oil will degrade the seals over time, and if in the compression chamber, may ignite due to dieseling.  I've never actually seen a problem with any of that, but to be safe, still use silicone based grease, like divers grease or o-ring grease.  And you can install the nut without any of the other guts, and put a mark (sharpie or whatever) on the tool when you hit the threads.  That way you'll know visually when the nut, with all the internals in place, is ready to thread doing as Van suggested.

[sweatyk]

Thanks guys. I have tried a few times today and still not able to get it catch the thread. I removed the second washer and put the original spring back in but still having a difficult time. I will continue forward until I get this...........

[sweatyk]

Forgive the bad picture but something that I overlooked is the surface that meets the rubber gasket. At a glance it appeared to be clean when I started this but closer inspection shows some of the old gasket bonded to the surface. This may or may not be whats keeping me from getting the nut started but it needs to come off. I've tried some 91% alcohol on a gun patch and trying to scrape it off using a chopstick. What do you guys use to get in there and clean that surface without causing any damage. Open to suggestions.

Picture is crappy but you might be able to see what I'm referring to.

[Van]

Thanks guys. I have tried a few times today and still not able to get it catch the thread. I removed the second washer and put the original spring back in but still having a difficult time. I will continue forward until I get this...........

   I had a problem getting that nut started on a Benjamin 310 with lead seals which is similar valve.  I made a seal from Teflon valve rope packing from the plumbing section a Lowes.  It compressed more than the lead and forming to the seat to give me enough slack to start the nut in the threads.  It has been holding for many years now.  Another member here who could not get the nut to start used this stuff to seal a Dan and reported that it worked on the first try.

[Van]

Forgive the bad picture but something that I overlooked is the surface that meets the rubber gasket. At a glance it appeared to be clean when I started this but closer inspection shows some of the old gasket bonded to the surface. This may or may not be whats keeping me from getting the nut started but it needs to come off. I've tried some 91% alcohol on a gun patch and trying to scrape it off using a chopstick. What do you guys use to get in there and clean that surface without causing any damage. Open to suggestions.

Picture is crappy but you might be able to see what I'm referring to.   

  I used a brass rod to prevent damage that I sharpened to make a flat scraper and Goo Gone to remove that old residue then a wood dowel with a fine piece of sandpaper glued to the tip to gently smooth up after.  It was tough to get off but worked out ok.   After all the work flush and flush again with 90% alcohol till all the tube comes clean.

[sweatyk]

I was thinking about using a valve lapping tool with something on the end to get it off. I played *(&^ getting it off of the valve. Had to use a small flathead and cautiously scrape little by little

[Van]

  I think I would try a pad of green Scotch Brite cut round and glued to the end a wood dowel soaked with Goo Gone if I had to do it again.  That would not damage the metal seat but goo gone might keep the pad from sticking to the dowel.

[sweatyk]

  I think I would try a pad of green Scotch Brite cut round and glued to the end a wood dowel soaked with Goo Gone if I had to do it again.  That would not damage the metal seat but goo gone might keep the pad from sticking to the dowel.

I bought a valve lapping tool to use. I'll bond the scotch brite pad to it so that it does not come off. But before I start this major cleaning process I'm going to remove the pump section on the front that I have already installed to ensure no trash gets in there. I hate to have to remove it but it is the right thing to do.

[eeler1]

I don't usually promote my own videos, but the first few minutes of this one might help;



The brass rod is a good suggestion, unless you run into a particularly stubborn one.

[sweatyk]

Jon I had no idea this was you. I've been watching your videos on the streak from "heck" for years now. It is what inspired me to do the rebuild myself. Thank you for your contributions!

I'll check out this video.

[Van]

That valve body seal can be lead or rubber. Mine was rubber with a lead seal under the nut. Some guns had two lead seals with no rubber one. I think you have a deteriorated rubber one back there like I did. Also if you have the eairler valve body with a single exhaust port the tab must be lined up with the slot in the chamber when you install it.

[sweatyk]

That valve body seal can be lead or rubber. Mine was rubber with a lead seal under the nut. Some guns had two lead seals with no rubber one. I think you have a deteriorated rubber one back there like I did.

Yes it was rubber.....and it had fused to both the valve and the facing in the chamber. It took a good bit of effort to get it off the valve. Got some ideas to get it off the other end. Once done I'll go through and make sure there's no debris left and start the reassembly again