Where to buy a new pcp

[bduares]

I do most of my shooting at 30 yards. I haven't had the need to shoot any further.

As far as breaking in the barrel, I wouldn't think it would need that other than maybe making sure it was clean inside. The further you shoot the more little things like how you hold the gun and how you pull the trigger matter more.

At 50 yards a 9mm PB round will drop around 3 1/2 inches so I would assume the same of an air rifle, though the pellet is lighter and slower and probably more affected by things like a breeze.

[Nick Jones]

Most of my shooting is at 25 to 35 yards. I was doing really good with that distance. I probably won’t ever need to shoot at 50 but I was hoping to. I could probably use a bettter scope also. I was using a fixed 4x scope that I bought 15 years ago at Walmart for $40. It’s a BSA.

[kylere1104]

I've had great experiences with pyramyd air. great customer service

[bduares]

Most of my shooting is at 25 to 35 yards. I was doing really good with that distance. I probably won’t ever need to shoot at 50 but I was hoping to. I could probably use a bettter scope also. I was using a fixed 4x scope that I bought 15 years ago at Walmart for $40. It’s a BSA.

So far the best scope I have put on my Origin is a UTG Bugbuster with a parallax wheel. At 30 yards with that I can walk a line of pellets down a 1/2" pvc pipe cutting it like a pair of scissors with each shot. I'm pretty sure I got the scope from Airgun Depot and the wheel either on Amazon or eBay.

[Nick Jones]

Most of my shooting is at 25 to 35 yards. I was doing really good with that distance. I probably won’t ever need to shoot at 50 but I was hoping to. I could probably use a bettter scope also. I was using a fixed 4x scope that I bought 15 years ago at Walmart for $40. It’s a BSA.

So far the best scope I have put on my Origin is a UTG Bugbuster with a parallax wheel. At 30 yards with that I can walk a line of pellets down a 1/2" pvc pipe cutting it like a pair of scissors with each shot. I'm pretty sure I got the scope from Airgun Depot and the wheel either on Amazon or eBay.

I always wandered what that parallax wheel does. What is that for exactly?

[bduares]

If you hold your thumb out and "aim" at something and then move your head side to side the "aim" you see with your eyes changes but the thumb never moved. That's an over simplified explanation of parallax. Scopes with a parallax adjustment help overcome that

[avator]

If I could afford it all my scopes would be side focus and have the wheels. As it stands I only have 3. Others have the front AO collar. I have problems adjusting those with the limited range of motion I have with my left shoulder.

[Nick Jones]

Ok. I might invest in a really good scope next. They can be expensive but I think I might can get something decent for $100 to $150 I hope.

[bduares]

Haven't pulled it out in a while, but here's my Origin, with not 1 but 2 barrel bands. Okay, 3 if you count the factory mid point band

[Nick Jones]

Dang I like that. Nice scope. Do you feel that the barrel bands are necessary? I did just order a 3d printed one off eBay that is a little longer than the others I’ve seen. I’m hoping it will be pretty tight. I could get another smaller one for the end of the barrel if I need it.

[bduares]

I had printed one band and used it for a while, but then found a file for a much more solid band so I I decided to give it a go and printed that one too and added it to the end of the rifle.

People have argued back and forth about barrel bands for a few years now. My reasoning is that I have at least 2 feet of barrel tube connected only at one end by one or 2 grub screws to hold steady the inch or two it sticks into a receiver block. A small bump at the free end and you change where it is pointing slightly, which can be a lot when you are shooting. So anything that is going to keep my 2 foot tube from moving at all might be helpful and just might keep the shots consistent since the barrel is not in any danger of moving around at the far end.

Most shooters, when zeroing a scope, actually clamp their entire rifle into a lead sled on a bench so that it won't move. Same principle. Consistency.

I can't say for sure yes or no whether the bands help or not, but they don't hurt anything as far as I am concerned. I do know that with those bands on I have hit a soda can at 650 ft. with my Origin using NOE mold 218-25-RF-D6 23.4 gr. slugs on a calm day. Not saying I could shoot a good spread at that distance, or that the slug had enough power to really do anything useful, but I managed a hit once I was able to walk the shots up an 8 ft piece of plywood to find out how high I had to aim. If I remember right it was between 6 1/2-7 feet over. It was ugly but it made me happy at the time

[Nick Jones]

I think I may end up getting another barrel band also. I like the way that you did yours and your right. It’s got to help hold things together and keep from moving.

[bduares]

Speaking of barrel bands, Sam Yang (aka Eun Jin or Seneca) air guns takes it a step even further and makes the front end of the rifle a big steel barrel band that incorporates the front sight as well as holds air pressure from the multiple air tube o-rings. This makes the barrel unable to budge at all. They are some of the most powerful, albeit very heavy, .22 and .25 airguns made. My Sumatra 2500 shoots CPHPs at over 1300 fps, which actually isn't good for pellets and makes it a slug only gun.

[Nick Jones]

That’s pretty impressive for an air rifle. That would sling a big hunk of lead.

[rkrr20307@comcast.net]

The lower and middle holes are for the dual air tubes. The top small hole holds the barrel.

[bduares]

It is nice when it is working. A real PITA when it is not. So many o-rings at each end and other parts that have to work just right for it to be great. I have become an old hand at taking a Seneca apart and putting it back together, sometimes multiple times in a 20 minute span to track down a leak. Now it is working great. Even better with the high power upgrade kit on it.

But then I think, you know, that front sight assembly looks a little beat up from getting it off when it was stuck, maybe I will get a new one...then I think about the 6 o-rings on 3 different tubes that sit under that assembly that may or  may not survive taking it off and putting a new one back on, that all hold in the main pressure for the gun, or that the barrel might move too much at the rear end when I take the front assembly off and I think nope, it's fine the way it is, holding air good and shooting good.  It's the main reason I have multiple 220+ o-ring kits from Harbor Freight.

But when it works it is awesome to experience. Not backyard friendly even with a moderator. Definitely not backyard friendly without one. 

[Nick Jones]

I had printed one band and used it for a while, but then found a file for a much more solid band so I I decided to give it a go and printed that one too and added it to the end of the rifle.

People have argued back and forth about barrel bands for a few years now. My reasoning is that I have at least 2 feet of barrel tube connected only at one end by one or 2 grub screws to hold steady the inch or two it sticks into a receiver block. A small bump at the free end and you change where it is pointing slightly, which can be a lot when you are shooting. So anything that is going to keep my 2 foot tube from moving at all might be helpful and just might keep the shots consistent since the barrel is not in any danger of moving around at the far end.

Most shooters, when zeroing a scope, actually clamp their entire rifle into a lead sled on a bench so that it won't move. Same principle. Consistency.

I can't say for sure yes or no whether the bands help or not, but they don't hurt anything as far as I am concerned. I do know that with those bands on I have hit a soda can at 650 ft. with my Origin using NOE mold 218-25-RF-D6 23.4 gr. slugs on a calm day. Not saying I could shoot a good spread at that distance, or that the slug had enough power to really do anything useful, but I managed a hit once I was able to walk the shots up an 8 ft piece of plywood to find out how high I had to aim. If I remember right it was between 6 1/2-7 feet over. It was ugly but it made me happy at the time

With the extra barrel bands for support do you ever have to re zero your scope or is it pretty dependable and reliable to hit your target?