Saw where Mike Ellington, on YouTube, has re-barrel some Hatsan break barrel rifles. He doesn't show how to remove barrel from receiver block or whatever the proper terminology is. Does anyone know how the barrel is attached and how to remove it? Thanks, Don
Quote from: doninva on January 04, 2025, 02:17:41 PMSaw where Mike Ellington, on YouTube, has re-barrel some Hatsan break barrel rifles. He doesn't show how to remove barrel from receiver block or whatever the proper terminology is. Does anyone know how the barrel is attached and how to remove it? Thanks, DonShort answer, pressed and pinned.Long answer:I don't know what Mike E. charges for his rebarrel/tuning work. I suspect it is appropriate for the materials used and the work effort. It is also for the Magnum Hatsans which are $200-$300 rifles depending on the model and caliber.I'm fairly certain Hatsan barrels are pressed into the block and then pinned. The barrel OD is profiled on a lathe and there is one notch added to make clearance for the pivot bolt. I think there is a second notch for the "pin" that locks the barrel to the block.The pin may be hard to see if the block was well finished. You will need to locate it and press it out. Arbor press or hydraulic. Alternatively you may need to drill the pin out and ream the hole for a slightly oversized pin.After that you will need a hydraulic press to push the barrel out of the block. This must be done carefully to avoid damage. I expect some applied HEAT may help the process.If you have an airgun barrel blank from Lothar Walther you will need a lathe to profile the OD of the breech end and then a mill for the 2 notches to allow clearance for the pivot bolt and retaining pin.A hydraulic press will be used to press the new barrel into the block paying special attention to keep the barrel notches lined up with the holes in the block.Alternatively you could press the barrel into the block without first milling the notches. Then mount the barrel and block on a mill to carefully drill and ream the barrel notches THROUGH the holes in the block. This would guarantee perfect alignment.All this effort for what is basically a $100 springer (Mod95) ? I have a hydraulic press but no mill or lathe. Even with careful attention I'm not certain I could remove the the old barrel from the block without damage.The cost of the machining for what I just described would exceed the cost of a new rifle by a factor of ~2.5x. The Lothar Walther air rifle blank itself is 1.5x more than the cost of the original rifle.I'd rather buy 4 variations of Mod95s from different sources. I'm certain I could swap parts around (no mill or lathe or hydraulic press needed) to get at least 3 of them working to factory specs and shooting with accuracy appropriate to other rifles in this price range.:-)
I watched a youtube video a few years back about removing a Hatsan barrel from the block. Was likely a Mike E. video but may have been one of his "lost" ones?Whoever it was, I think they destroyed the first one because they didn't see the small pin and used a hydraulic press. Made a mess but NOW they knew about the pin so the next one was successful. I remember thinking NOPE, NOT going to try that!Sorry I can't supply any current links to useful info.Best wishes and let us know if you are successful ! :-)EDIT: I "think" the small pin has been ground FLUSH with the block so it is very well hidden. That is why it was easy for them to miss the first time pressing out the barrel. You may need to sand the bluing off and acid etch the metal to see the pin outline? ... or maybe I'm totally wrong ;-)