Diana RWS model 34 - I dug it back out...

[moeb74]

So I have not shot this gun in a long time, life and all and being busy. So I was wondering is there anything I should do to it, or just start shooting it? I dont have by ~100 rounds total thru the gun I would say.

[Toxylon]

How long has it stood idle, is the first question to ask. Springers can lay dormant for a year+, easy, but there's a limit to the lubes' and seal materials' longevity.

Here at GTA the default is to assume the gun has been kept indoors, out of the elements, and out of wild temperature and humidity swings. In the larger sphere of things, this is NOT the default, I've learned. An unoiled springer left in a leaky barn for a few seasons would go bad in several ways.

A springer with just 100 rounds through it is still ways off being broken in, as I'm sure you know.

[moeb74]

How long has it stood idle, is the first question to ask. Springers can lay dormant for a year+, easy, but there's a limit to the lubes' and seal materials' longevity.

Here at GTA the default is to assume the gun has been kept indoors, out of the elements, and out of wild temperature and humidity swings. In the larger sphere of things, this is NOT the default, I've learned. An unoiled springer left in a leaky barn for a few seasons would go bad in several ways.

A springer with just 100 rounds through it is still ways off being broken in, as I'm sure you know.

Id say 2-3 years in the house.

[Toxylon]

I would observe closely how the gun cocks, locks and cycles, but would assume things are OK, and proceed to put a large tin of pellets through it at a fast clip to clear the ground for further assessment.

[splitbeing]

Has it been lubed? The later ones came pretty dry.

[moeb74]

Has it been lubed? The later ones came pretty dry.

It has not been lubed. I dont know where to start... Hence this post. I looked it up and some people said to not follow the guide from RWS since its wrong...?

[Roadworthy]

If you've never cleaned the barrel I'd start there.  I usually start with a dry patch to get the worst of the manufacturing crud then follow with a patch dampened with Ballistol or Hoppe's Number Nine.  After that run several dry patches as the residue will detonate.  You should put a drop of oil on the barrel pivot and lube the latch ball as well for smoother cocking.  The later guns tended to have the pivot screw too tight making them unnecessarily hard to cock.  You are allowed to loosen the pivot screw a bit if this is the case.  If you wish you may remove the stock and put a bit of moly lube on the exposed spring.  That will smooth its operation and cocking and shooting will throw the lube all around in there.  If you have no moly lube even a bit of grease will do.  Beyond this stuff you'll have to disassemble the gun and a spring compressor and dummy pins are advised for that.  Beyond this if you're worried about breaking in the barrel you can shoot ten pellets then run a dry patch through the barrel.  Repeat the process ten or twenty times.  Enjoy.

[moeb74]

If you've never cleaned the barrel I'd start there.  I usually start with a dry patch to get the worst of the manufacturing crud then follow with a patch dampened with Ballistol or Hoppe's Number Nine.  After that run several dry patches as the residue will detonate.  You should put a drop of oil on the barrel pivot and lube the latch ball as well for smoother cocking.  The later guns tended to have the pivot screw too tight making them unnecessarily hard to cock.  You are allowed to loosen the pivot screw a bit if this is the case.  If you wish you may remove the stock and put a bit of moly lube on the exposed spring.  That will smooth its operation and cocking and shooting will throw the lube all around in there.  If you have no moly lube even a bit of grease will do.  Beyond this stuff you'll have to disassemble the gun and a spring compressor and dummy pins are advised for that.  Beyond this if you're worried about breaking in the barrel you can shoot ten pellets then run a dry patch through the barrel.  Repeat the process ten or twenty times.  Enjoy.

Thanks! this gives me a good starting point. Appreciate it!

Is there a diy spring compression I can make or even a make shift way of compressing that spring?

[Duckfish]

Don’t get ahead of yourself.  Shoot it and see what it tells you it needs.  Probably nothing but a few dozen pellets thru it.

[moeb74]

Don’t get ahead of yourself.  Shoot it and see what it tells you it needs.  Probably nothing but a few dozen pellets thru it.

I just wanted to make sure all is well. Its a 2016 variation and I didnt know if these were dry or any other problems.

[mikeyb]

...
Is there a diy spring compression I can make or even a make shift way of compressing that spring?

Don’t get ahead of yourself.  Shoot it and see what it tells you it needs.  Probably nothing but a few dozen pellets thru it.

+1

No need to open up the rifle unless something is wrong.
I suggest testing the rifle before buying or building a spring compressor... unless you REALLY WANT to learn the joys and frustrations of air rifle tuning and repair ;-)

I always clean the bore on new(to me) air rifles just in case there is debris or excess factory rust-prevention grease. I've not needed (yet) to clean a springer bore a second time.

When I pull my rifles out of seasonal storage for a lead feeding I might add a drop of oil to pivot points and the barrel latch. NO oil of ANY KIND goes in the high pressure area of ANY of my springers. I don't like the explosive results. IMO modern slippery polymer piston seals do not require additional lube.

I start slow and "feel" how smooth the cocking links and trigger feel. The shot cycle should be a nice "thump" with little to no lingering spring vibrations. If no odd crunchy sounds or gritty feel I shoot several dozen pellets on a paper target over my chronograph.

The chronograph numbers and the group sizes will also tell me if anything needs work/repair or the rifle is fine. I'm fairly certain my coil spring rifles would not need any additional work after 2 years "dry" storage.

Hope all goes well :-)

[splitbeing]

One way of knowing if anything is off is the ES.

[Yogi]

Clean the barrel and then shoot it.  2-3 years is not much.  I had a Diana 5G that sat for 25 years.  Those old piston seals become brittle and disintegrates.  The newer seals should be good to go...
shoot it and have fun!

-Yogi

PS if you hear metal grinding when shooting, then and only then should you take it apart.
Yes do a search on here about a homebuilt spring compressor.  Tons of plans.

-Y

[splitbeing]

If in addition to just shooting the 34 and seeing if it's accurate and enjoyable to shoot you want to know a bit more, a cheap chronograph is the most important next step,  a spring compressor and disassembly is for most a step that comes after chronograph testing.  If you get a chrony and shoot 5 shots, look at the difference between the slowest and fastest shot.  If it is under ten, it's in excellent shape.  If it's above 15, it might could use some tinkering and disassembly. 

Another sign to listen for when shooting that requires just your ears is whether or not it honks like a duck, makes a loud ping, or makes a loud buzz/twang.  These aren't really bad, per se, but tey are things you can smooth out and reduce or eliminate if you feel like tinkering.

[moeb74]

thanks for the help guys. Again, now I have more of an idea on what to look out for etc.