From thread:https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=210737.msg156528358#msg156528358To here:With respect to all involved, the thread topic linked above seemed to be veering off into a trigger discussion. To keep the original thread on target I chose to post my comments on triggers here as a separate thread.Disclaimer: Bad trigger adjustments can be made on ANY type of trigger that will make it unsafe or unusable. It is the responsibility of the individual MAKING any adjustments/changes to understand, accept, and mitigate the risks involved. If you are not willing to take responsibility for your own actions then please DON'T work on airgun triggers.**********I have only worked on 1 older (SAT?) Gamo trigger but MANY of the other triggers I HAVE worked on are very similar in design.I'm fairly certain the Gamo SAT (smooth action trigger) was supposed to be update of an older version trigger group that more closely resembles the older Crosman (B19) and current Hatsan Edge triggers.The CAT (custom action trigger) is supposed to be an update of the SAT.Here is an interesting youtube comparison of the SAT verses CAT Gamo triggers.To me BOTH the SAT and CAT are still really 1-stage triggers. The initial movement of the trigger blade is against a spring and is basically a FAKE first stage. It does nothing to move the sear position until a part of the trigger blade actually touches the sear and begins to move that sear. Initial contact with the sear lever is what "feels" like the second stage wall of a real 2-stage trigger.Seems to me that Gamo had the chance to make a REAL 2-stage trigger for the SAT>CAT upgrade but just didn't follow through(?) Yes the geometry is a little different and so is the adjustment, but they are basically the same 1-stage trigger.I'm NOT bashing these simple triggers! In fact I actually LIKE them! IMO the equivalent of the SAT in my older Crosman(B19) rifles and the similar version used in my Hatsan Striker/Edge rifles is super easy to safely adjust/modify to get MY nearly perfect springer trigger.They are just NOT true 2-stage triggers even though they may FEEL like one.Hatsan Edge trigger... Trigger groups like the Hatsan Quattro for example are designed to be 2-stage. The Quattro has an additional sear lever but that is NOT what makes it 2-stage. The trigger blade has 2 distinct and adjustable contact points with a sear lever. When properly adjusted the initial trigger blade movement goes through a light "true" first stage which reduces the sear overlap by half or more. The second contact point with the sear then takes over. That feels like an increase in trigger resistance which is usually described as the second-stage-wall. From that point the trigger blade only needs to move a very short distance to finish sear movement and release the piston. Ideally this feels like snapping-a-small-glass-rod to fire.Hatsan Quattro trigger... My simple animations are to-scale and are intended to show only basic part motion. The animations do NOT show springs, safety levers, or details about stages and adjustments. The Edge trigger blade only has 1 contact point and the group has 1 adjustment to pre-move the sear (reduce sear overlap). The Quattro trigger blade has 2 separate stage contact points(adjustable) and the group has a third adjustment for pull weight.*** Regarding the GRT trigger blade ***https://www.charliedatuna.com/GRT-4G.htmI don't own any of the GRT trigger blades so I cannot 100% verify my next statement. From the images I see online it really looks to me like the GRT trigger blade has 2 working contact points with the sear. That means it really DOES upgrade the trigger group to 2-stages if/when properly adjusted.Per reviews MANY people love this trigger upgrade!Most of my springers that could accept a GRT blade upgrade are overstocks/refurbs purchased for under $100. Many closer to $50 and some even less. I'm just not motivated to spend $30+ on a trigger blade for a $50 springer. I may get a GRT blade someday but for now I choose the low cost mods for my cheap springer triggers. FWIW... I like to set up my 1st-stage (fake=slack-takeup on the simple triggers) to be only ounces up to the 2nd-stage wall. Length of the first stage doesn't matter to me at all when it is a light pull and I can easily FEEL and hold at the 2nd-stage wall. Then I want a short 2-2.5 lb snap to fire on my hunting/pesting/plinking springers. That is MY IDEAL springer trigger. I have modified/adjusted all my simple springer triggers (except the direct sear Noricas) SAFELY down to that profile. I would NOT TRUST any of my simple triggers adjusted much lighter than this. IMO the smaller sear overlap needed to go lighter would be unsafe.A 2-stage trigger theoretically has ALL parts designed from the ground up to be a 2-stage trigger and each stage should be adjustable for length and pull weight. THAT trigger group "should" be able to be safely adjusted to have a much lighter trigger pull.Since the GRT blade is designed to make an existing 1-stage trigger group into a 2-stage, the overall adjustability is limited. From the GRT instructions pdf "The trigger pull weight cannot be adjusted."That could be an issue for someone expecting too much from a GRT blade upgrade. It is well designed and well executed but it can't fix ALL the problems people have with the simple trigger groups.Anyone interested in getting a GRT trigger should READ the installation instructions FIRST. Then they will fully understand the installation/adjustment process and the results they can expect.Cheers :-)
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