Spring cylinder oil on mainspring - works into the combustion chamber?

[alanpo]

I know it's a topic whether to oil mainsprings for periodic maintenance, i.e. using RWS Spring Cylinder Oil.

But if one does oil as per manufacturer instructions, I'm alittle puzzled. Combustible lubes cannot be used in the combustion chamber as that will cause more dieseling and perhaps detonation. Silicones and others with a very high flashpoint must be used. I think spring oil is combustible. But isn't the mainspring in part of the chamber, so lubing them would cause more dieseling and perhaps, less likely, detonation?

I have some spring air guns that are 30+ years old and haven't had a drop of mainspring lube in perhaps 20 years so perhaps it's time for a few drops on them, that's why I'm asking. A drop of silicone chamber lube in the chamber has definitely helped them.

[Roadworthy]

In many guns moly lube is used on the spring.  It is based on petroleum and will burn.  If the piston seal is doing its job it should keep that lube in the spring chamber and not allow it into the compression chamber.  When my TX 200 began emitting a bit of smoke I took it as a clue the piston seal was no longer doing its job and replaced it.

[alanpo]

I should have mentioned that I haven't taken apart a spring airgun. So based on the previous post, there is a separate spring and compression chamber, so lubing the spring doesn't affect the compression chamber under normal conditions.

[avator]

I pull the spring and piston for maintenance on spring guns when they show signs of reduced performance (power falls off). I check to make sure the spring is not broken or worn out. I check the piston seal for wear or damage.
If all is good or replaced I put a thin layer of moly paste on the exterior of the seal and generously apply heavy tar to the spring. I also put heavy tar on the guide and top hat. This reduces the twang and buzz.
I consider one of the most important things is to make sure the spring spins freely on the thrust washer and top hat. This eliminates the torque. If done correctly the gun will give a solid "thunk" when shot instead of a harsh, twangy, twisty buzz.
Undoubtedly others have their own way of doing it but that's how I do it. I never put any kind of oil in the chamber.
If it's just a loss of accuracy I check the breech seal and clean the barrel. A chronograph is my friend. I will record base line numbers when the gun is shooting good. That way I have something to compare it to when things go south.

[avator]

One more tip...
All tins of pellets are not created equal, especially Crosman and some of the other low cost pellet brands. I've opened a new tin of the same pellets and accuracy was all over the place. I then opened a different tin and good results returned.
I've heard stories about tins being "scoop" filled with random pellets that are not sequential in lots and the bulk brown boxes being all the same lot. I have not seen any proof of that theory so I can't/won't make that claim.
The point is.. when diagnosing a developed issue with accuracy, I always begin with the simplest possibility.
Pellets, scope, barrel, chrono. I do them one at a time and test after each check.

[Doug Wall]

As others have said, oil usually doesn’t go in guns. I use a thin coating of Honda Molly 66 on the outside of the piston, behind the seal. Also around the back end of the piston, and, if it’s a spring gun, on the top hat and guide rod. I also use a thin coating of spring tar on spring gun mainsprings. Some people have had good luck using Krytox instead of Moly. The only exception to the oil rule is if you have an older gun with a leather piston seal.