Dealing With Paraffin On blanks

[Ronno6]

I received some elm turning blanks that I am planning on turning into Crosnam pumper forearms.
They have a healthy coating of paraffin on them.
The blocks need to be machined down to thickness, some dimensions about 1/2", others maybe 1/4"
Table saw will do the trick, as 3 sides will need sanding or shaping.

Is it OK to run that thru the table saw, or do I need to remove the paraffin??
How about the thickness planer...OK for paraffin?

This is a new experience for me!

[Back_Roads]

My concern would be the wax migrating into the cut wood and messing with the finish, best to shave off the outer layers of wax, clean saw blade  after

[maraudinglizard]

Use a cabinet scraper to remove the excess, then plane or saw off. Do not heat or liquid strip the wax it will sink in. Most of these blanks were coated when green to prevent quick drying and cracking. The wax will be on the surface due the moisture content in the wood. Plus you don't need the wax mess all over you power tools. Also I would wait a week or so on making anything with it to make sure it doesn't split or warp once the wax is removed. This is just my experience with blanks, other folks may have other methods for removal.

[Ronno6]

I have scraped off as much wax as I could using a pocket knife.
Dunno if I have a scraper in the shop..I will search.
Now to machine 2 square edges on the joiner, then thickness plane the other 2 sides if dimensionally close enough.
I will let stand in the house for a week or so, then move on.
Some pretty wood...I.m hoping it matches up well enough to me refinished Crosman butt stocks.

[Privateer]

I'd do a light plane on all sides to remove the last of the goop.
Weigh the piece and let it dry for a while (Week or more) and then weigh again.
If it's drying you'll see the difference. Once the weight stabilizes you should be good to go.
Machine it to soon and you could get warp and or twist.

You could make a kind of kiln to help dry it with a simple light bulb in a box.
Not an LED but the older 60 watt types that put off a bit of heat.
Keep it away from dehumidifiers! They pull to much moisture out to fast and can cause cracking/splitting!

Have space on the underside of pieces and turn them over the drying time. A small fan like a computer fan also helps move the air. A few vent holes will be needed also to draw the air out.
Fan should be done to blow air out up near the top and vents to pull fresh air in near the bottom.

[Ronno6]

Good ideas..Thanks!

[Privateer]

I spent a few years with a Guy that built his own Kiln. We'd cut down Oak trees, have them cut into slabs roughly 5x3 inch planks, then put in his kiln. All he had was a bunch of light bulbs inside that.
He used a moisture tester and once they reached what he wanted? Those would be sent off and cut into custom flooring.
Part that was not fun was turning the drying planks every so often!

That was some of the most beautiful oak flooring I've ever installed! And I've installed more then I can remember!

[Ronno6]

In response to my question to the seller, he infomed me that these were processed green and coated in wax as stated in the listing.
So, I want back and had to really scrutinize the listing.
There was that statement, tacked on to the end of a list of other species of wood they process......
As I was not interested in any other species, I did not read thru the list to see that statement at the end, at the far right side of the page.....

Kinda like selling a Hatsan rifle, then listing a bunch of other guns someone sells, and adding a blanket statement  on the same line as that list of and applying it back to the Hatsan that was in an earlier paragraph...........It was not obscured, just not easily spotted.
My bad, I suppose.......

So i will take this first blank I have machined and keep it in the house, weighing it on my postal scale til the weight stabilizes.

The sources for 2x2 elm lumber are scarce. I may ultimately have to laminate 2 pieces of 3/4"......

[Privateer]

Your area in Ole Miss shows about a 70% humidity about now?
Not sure what a good level would be for Elm considered dry for wood working.

But I'd say get it dry to your area then seal it from collecting more or loseing more.
I have seen Elm from down South cause problems when moved to a less humid area.

Probably why I've never seen a hard wood floor done in Elm.

[Ronno6]

Once the weight levels off, I will make Crosman 2100/2200 pumper forearms, then seal it...

[Ronno6]

Your area in Ole Miss shows about a 70% humidity about now?
 

As cold as it has been, the heat pump has been in use.
That should lower the indoor humidity into the 40% range.....

[Ronno6]

Maybe I should machine and finish while it is still green to prevent warping and splitting??

[Ronno6]

I planed and squared up 1 piece of the elm  and trimmed both ends, then brought into the house.
Heat has been on...
Only been in the house for 2 weeks, and the weight has been stable for the last 4 days.....