Hatsan Stock Refinishing

[Ronno6]

Have any y'all refi8nished a Hatsan stock?

I have had trouble refinishing "hardwood" stocks from newer Crosman and Daisy rifles.
Their wood does not take stain evenly, at least not for me.
Near as I can figure they seal the wood then apply a tinted finish.

So, I am wondering if the Turkish walnut Hatsan stocks can more easily be refinished
using more traditional methods of strip, stain, and oil, and achieve good results.....

[Mossonarock]

I did refinish the stock for my 135. I believe I posted some pics here. I don't think that was here in the Turkish gun gate though. For stain, I used propolis from honey bees. Then I coated it with tru-gun oil. It turned out really well. Honey bee propolis dissolves in ethanol. So you can use denatured alcohol from the hardware store. You can get propolis from a local beekeeper. A little propolis goes a long ways. You can keep reapplying the propolis to darken the stain. Its easy to work with. Each application redissolves the previous application which makes it so easy to work with. Once the alcohol evaporates, the stain is cured. What that stain looks like depends on the propolis- yellow, red, brown, black if you make it that way. I learned about using propolis as a varnish from violin luthiers as that is what they do. High end violins are treated with propolis varnish. I also keep honey bees; so I have lots of propolis to use.

I found the thread: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=173128.msg155968921#msg155968921

[Ronno6]

Excellent, Mr.Timn!

[Ronno6]

I just received a Mod. 65 with a stock in need of refinishing.
It looks to be pretty good Turkish walnut.

We'll see what lies beneath the finish.......

[Ronno6]

The Model 65 has some rather interesting grip areas; on the pistol grip and the forearm.
I am not certain exactly what the textured material is.
It resembles the plastic half of Velcro that has been heated by an open flame......
Or, maybe it is wood that has been attacked by an insane woodpecker.........

I am avoiding contact with paint stripper at any rate.....
Anyone have an idea as to shat that surface material is?

I have sent Hatsan a request regarding this......

[Ronno6]

Hatsan USA does NOT know.................
I'll just be careful not to expose it to contact with the stripper........or steel wool.......or sandpaper........or ??

I can'i imagine that it is wood...it would be too fragile...

[OleTomCat]

I don't know what the material is that's on the Model 65's gripping areas but for the other guns I use a spray on chemical stripper that removes all of the original finish and exposes the bare wood under neath, I rinse really well with tap water then let it sit and dry in a warm well ventilated area of the shop.

[Yogi]

I redid my 95 Vortex stock.  I used paint stripper, wrapped in plastic.  Putty knife, lots of scrapping, lots of alcohol cleaning.
They a wipe down with bleach, then vinegar.  Light sanding, covered the cross hatched area with tape.  ARH London oil, follow the directions on his website.
Came out great.  Saddly, it revealed that the only place that I have tiger eye was underneath the grip...

-Yogi

[Blowpipe Sam]

Fine sandpaper first then steelwool.  I don't use chemical strippers.  Bute, perk, and MEKP are all too nasty for me.  I might use a little mineral spirits in the steelwool stage.  I refinished the stock on my mod 95 this way then treated it with a mixture of 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 Linseed oil, and 1/3 turpentine.  For the final finish melted beeswax was worked into the wood with a little heat and a chamois and then polished.

[Back_Roads]

 I quit springer buying, but these appear to be laser etched grip areas

[SpiralGroove]

A few, years ago:

[Novagun]

I have refurbished a stock only once  it was a Sharp Innova and the finish was pretty tatty . I rubbed the old varnish down with 220 grit to get a key and revarnish it with water based floor seal. Semigloss. The stock came up well to a tidy job with not too much sheen. I have always been wary of using steel wool on any timber because the steel strands can and do break and lodge in the grain to cause rust problems later. 3M polypads are good to use in various grades and a wash out brings them back to new.

[Ronno6]

I stripped and sanded the stock, then just went to it with Tru-Oil.
About 5 coats and it looks darn good........ I'll have to post a photo or 2...