Printed Go-NoGo Gauge and Pegs

[rsterne]

I ran across this file on Thingiverse....  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644473

I altered the pegs by stacking them to print in a single piece....



The peg has three parts, all printed to a (theoretical) size of 10mm.... round (left), square (center), and square with beveled corners (right).... I printed three, using the CURA "Slicing Tolerance" settings (found under "Experimental") of "Inclusive", "Middle" and "Exclusive", and since these shapes are not tapered, that made no difference in the size.... I actually printed two plates as well, using "Middle' and "Exclusive", and that made no difference in the size either....  Here are the pegs sitting in the holes that gave the best fit.... The numbers are the amount the holes in that column are oversize (larger than 10mm)....



By "best fit", I mean large enough to slide in easily, but not so large that the peg will fall out (which they will do in the next largest hole).... You can probably force the peg into the next smaller size hole.... I did file off the "Z" seam on the pegs before trying them.... The top row of holes in the plate are relieved at the corners of the squares, because printed squares tend to have a "bump" on one side of the corner.... The second row are simple square holes, and the square peg with the beveled corners is the test piece for those....

I was using PETG in my Ender 5 S-1, and of course other materials may yield different results.... but these are good starting points for a good fit with the shapes tested....

Bob

[Ronfiveo]

Newbie question: "What's it used for?"
Go or no go for what?

I'm thinking I might try to make a "G-NG" gauge for pellets that my pistol will accept to shoot with out getting stuck in the bore.


I just bought two tins of Crosman .177 hollow point pellets and the majority will not fit in the bore with out forcing them to, and if done, they just "poof" out when shot.

Ron

[rsterne]

It is to determine how much oversize you need to make round or square holes so that they will slide together.... If you make a 10mm printed peg, it won't fit into a 10mm printed hole.... You can do the same thing with other shapes, such a triangles or hexagons, too....

Bob

[Ronfiveo]

Thanks , Bob.
It was for 3D printing needs.
I appreciate the feed back, amigo.

Ron

[TorqueMaster]

This is a cool print, very useful!  I appreciate that you printed with all 3 Cura slicing tolerances, and got no change in size, as one would hope. 

I was following your threads thread -- I had found that middle tolerance is where I wanted to stay -- where printed external threads (bolts) fit commercial nuts just fine -- then only printed internal threads needed special consideration (more than slicing tolerance could fix anyway.)  My decision not to use exclusive was also -- if a part has angled features other than threads that would be affected by slicing tolerance, I don't want to use it, since it will slightly alter those other dimensions, too.  Not saying I'd never use it, but only in very special cases.

[rsterne]

There is a way to change the setting from Middle to Exclusive only for certain features.... This trick is usually used for infill, but I am pretty sure you could use it for other settings....



It seems to create a model within a model by using "Support Blocker".... Once you have that, you can size it, move it, and change the print settings within it!....

At least I think that's how it works!.... 

Bob

[TorqueMaster]

Bob,
This is intriguing.  I have used support blockers to block supports.  I have printed multiple simultaneous parts with different settings (to the extent Cura will allow.)  I have not seen this done -- change setting  _within_  a print.  One more trick for this old dog to learn.