Do all diana spring guides...

[splitbeing]

Have this ring?

The pic is of a damaged one.

Looked on the back of the spring guide to my 48 and don't see one. Maybe it doesn't have one? Or maybe it fell off and I didn't catch it?

[Yogi]

Have this ring?

The pic is of a damaged one.

Looked on the back of the spring guide to my 48 and don't see one. Maybe it doesn't have one? Or maybe it fell off and I didn't catch it?

Yes, look up the part number here:
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-qovxruj8ue/images/stencil/original/x/24849__39670.original.png

-Y

[Roadworthy]

I believe they all SHOULD have the ring.  It protects the softer spring guide from gouging by the steel spring.

[HectorMedina]

Have this ring?

The pic is of a damaged one.

Looked on the back of the spring guide to my 48 and don't see one. Maybe it doesn't have one? Or maybe it fell off and I didn't catch it?

Hmmmm, hard to tell from a picture, but I would side on the "NO" side of this discussion.

ALL plastic guides SHOULD use a washer. Whether thick or thin, it does not matter, but it should be hardened.

Even if factory springs were polished to mirror finish, they could still gouge the base of the guide. A steel washer will prevent this.

You need to remember that when springs are compressed they get a bit "fatter", and that is because the spring, under pressure "uncoils" a little.

If it uncoils, it is clear that the forge and square angle is no longer valid, and what WAS a surface support has now changed towards a point support. It does not need to be truly pointed,  it just needs to be a small enough surface to make the pressure in that point corresponding to 200 -> 300 kgF (about 440 to 660 lbsF) be large enough to deform the guide.

Diana uses steel washers that are only 0.021" thick in the low powered models and 0.048" in the higher powered models, but they are hardened to around Rc45

This is a good substitution for the D34 and similar using OEM spring and guide:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90850A300/

HTH, keep well and shoot straight!




HM

[Yogi]

Wow Hector,

That washer is Grade 9.  What the heck is Grade 9?
I know what Grade 5 and Grade 8 are, but 9??

-Y

[splitbeing]

Thanks Thomas, Yogi, and Hector.

For clarification:

The piece in the pic is not the washer between the spring and the base of the guide.

The piece in the pic was from the very bottom/underside of the guide that contacts the end tube/trigger housing/safety.

[Nitrocrushr]

I’ve seen them used to properly space the back of spring guide in the trigger housing so there is no slop.  Very thin ring.  If its chewed up like that, there may have been some piston bounce causing the guide to unseat itself on the shot.  Was the back of the guide chewed up too?

Steve

[HectorMedina]

As far as OEM specs go, there should be NO filler between the bottom "nipple" of the guide and the trigger housing "well".
There SHOULD be a small space there.


HM

[splitbeing]

I’ve seen them used to properly space the back of spring guide in the trigger housing so there is no slop.  Very thin ring.  If its chewed up like that, there may have been some piston bounce causing the guide to unseat itself on the shot.  Was the back of the guide chewed up too?

Steve

I think you hit the nail on the head, Steve! It was causing some cocking issues. Didn't notice chew marks, but wasn't looking for them either. Now I will be!

I will also be finding out how much difference the absence of the thin ring causes and possibly msking up a replacement of sorts if the slop is there.

[splitbeing]

As far as OEM specs go, there should be NO filler between the bottom "nipple" of the guide and the trigger housing "well".
There SHOULD be a small space there.


HM

Thanks Hector.

[Deerstalker]

Have this ring?

The pic is of a damaged one.

Looked on the back of the spring guide to my 48 and don't see one. Maybe it doesn't have one? Or maybe it fell off and I didn't catch it?

Hmmmm, hard to tell from a picture, but I would side on the "NO" side of this discussion.

ALL plastic guides SHOULD use a washer. Whether thick or thin, it does not matter, but it should be hardened.

Even if factory springs were polished to mirror finish, they could still gouge the base of the guide. A steel washer will prevent this.

You need to remember that when springs are compressed they get a bit "fatter", and that is because the spring, under pressure "uncoils" a little.

If it uncoils, it is clear that the forge and square angle is no longer valid, and what WAS a surface support has now changed towards a point support. It does not need to be truly pointed,  it just needs to be a small enough surface to make the pressure in that point corresponding to 200 -> 300 kgF (about 440 to 660 lbsF) be large enough to deform the guide.

Diana uses steel washers that are only 0.021" thick in the low powered models and 0.048" in the higher powered models, but they are hardened to around Rc45

This is a good substitution for the D34 and similar using OEM spring and guide:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90850A300/

HTH, keep well and shoot straight!




HM

Does anyone have a suggestion for a thin SS washer that will fit between the spring & top hat and also the guide for a HW95 with 26 mm piston?  OD = 1" while ID = 1/2"+ I believe, ID could be 9/16", .563".

Thanks

[Yogi]

Why do you want a washer between the top hat and spring?  Just a tight fit should do it.  If anything a washer between the top hat and the inside of the piston.

-Y

PS look at Mcmaster-Carr, they have just about any hardware you might ever need.