Problems with Hatsan Mod 95 springer

[AccuJack]

I am currently experiencing some problems with my Mod 95. When I go to break the barrel at full cock it will not click to lock the spring back thus making it not shoot. I figure that some sort of catch it broke just wandering on what it could be, if it is fixable, or I am just out of luck.


Thanks for the help.




Also is it possible to switch to a vortex piston if I have it apart or would that be a headache to do?

[Nukall856]

Accujack,
 Sound like one of your Quattro trigger screws is In too far? I know a few others here had that problem, should be able to adjust one of the screws OUT to make it catch, if its not that,, then someone else here can give an answer. Goodluck.

NVak

[Yogi]

I am currently experiencing some problems with my Mod 95. When I go to break the barrel at full cock it will not click to lock the spring back thus making it not shoot. I figure that some sort of catch it broke just wandering on what it could be, if it is fixable, or I am just out of luck.


Thanks for the help.




Also is it possible to switch to a vortex piston if I have it apart or would that be a headache to do?

Post in the Turkish Gate section.  Lots of people there will help you!

-Y

[Back_Roads]

 My guess is the trigger has vibrated out of adjustment, try turning the adjustment screws in a 1/4 turn at a time till it catches, you will want to bump test after adjustment works.

[mikeyb]

I am currently experiencing some problems with my Mod 95. When I go to break the barrel at full cock it will not click to lock the spring back thus making it not shoot. I figure that some sort of catch it broke just wandering on what it could be, if it is fixable, or I am just out of luck.


Thanks for the help.

As suggested it could simply be the trigger group needs adjustment.
There could be a broken part in the trigger group.
If a coil-spring model one or a couple coils can "break" and sometimes this interferes with the trigger latching the piston.
If a Vortex air-spring model the high pressure air-spring may have leaked so there is no spring force. Piston is already held by trigger latch but there is no spring force to push piston when trigger is pulled. This one is EASY to diagnose because cocking effort will be super-easy = "0".

Any of these can be repaired with little effort. No need to scrap the rifle unless you "hate" it and just want it gone.

Also is it possible to switch to a vortex piston if I have it apart or would that be a headache to do?

I have many Hatsan break barrels and the only ones that have failed me are those with Vortex air-springs. The coil-springs are more reliable in my experience. You can convert a coil-spring rifle to use the Vortex air-spring but it requires a couple part changes. I prefer the coil-spring models and have converted "leaky" Vortex models to use coil-springs. I DON'T recommend you convert to a Vortex. There is really no significant performance benefit from using the Vortex.

If you work on the rifle yourself the very first thing you will need is a solid/safe spring compressor. I recommend you watch some of Mike E's videos

https://www.youtube.com/@MrSteppingstone888/videos

on the Hatsan Mod95 and the Quattro Trigger group.

If working on these rifle yourself seems like something you CAN and WANT to do, then make/build/buy a spring compressor and go for it! We can usually help if you get stuck.

[Methuselah]

There used to be a lot of pics posted of home made spring compressors.  Many uploded pics can be broken links though, and one hosting site that shall remain nameless now puts their logo or name across all pics - very unfortunate when you consider the OP is long gone so the details in the pics can easily be rendered unusable...

I think user "the fuse" posted a particularly effective design many years ago?

[mikeyb]

Yes, MANY broken links to both posts and images. I did a quick search for posts and images that are still active (for today)...

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=41567.msg389204#msg389204

http://airguns4fun.blogspot.com/2011/11/break-barrel-air-rifle-disassembly.html

https://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/topic76452.html

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=175395.msg155981647#msg155981647

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=175395.msg155981888#msg155981888

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=175395.msg155981902#msg155981902

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=175395.msg156322285#msg156322285

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=148735.msg1516567#msg1516567

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=148735.msg1516579#msg1516579

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=148735.msg1516597#msg1516597

https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2016/09/mainspring-compressor/

https://www.pyramydair.com/product/air-venturi-rail-lock-spring-compressor?a=7764






My suggestions:

1) Screw travel needs to be at least 3" for Magnum Springers. IMO you need at least another inch for adapters that will protect end-plug "safety" switches. I'd add another inch for the full length adjustment increments. So 5" minimum travel. I usually select a cheap 6 inch "C" clamp from Harbor Freight and chop/drill it to start my DIY compressors.

2) I DON'T recommend compressing forces on the MUZZLE. It may be safe for some rifles but others may get damaged. Either a "Rail-Lock" clamp or adapter to catch the compression tube "Forks" is my preference.

3) I work mostly on Hatsan rifles which are MUCH EASIER to work on if the spring is relaxed BEFORE the barrel pivot is removed/installed. Another reason I prefer rail-lock or fork support during compression/decompression.

4) Standard bar clamps could work if there at least 5" of active threads.

5) Avoid any clamps that have PLASTIC structural parts. I tried several of those during my early "learning" phase and all of them suddenly failed during the most inconvenient time. No rifle damage or injury (lucky me!) but some drywall was damaged during those "events".

All my spring compressor variants to date have rested against the comp-tube forks. No damage or problems with that design for me. I have NOT tried the rail-lock design but suspect it will work just fine as long as rail clamps never "slip" !

Best Wishes!

[Yogi]

Great post!
Unfortunately, i do not understand how you can "catch" the compression tube barrel forks without removing the barrel first??
I have used the clamp on compressor.  Getting the first 3 inch jaws to catch the dovetails is the only tricky part.  To leave 5 inches of distance, you have a lot of weight hanging off the back end.
Once you catch them however, you can torque them down a lot.  The rail part of the compressor acts as a torsion spring between the two tightening screws.  The only concern is chewing up the dovetails. 

-Y

PS Maybe I should watch the video first before I comment?

[avator]

Great post!
Unfortunately, i do not understand how you can "catch" the compression tube barrel forks without removing the barrel first??
I have used the clamp on compressor.  Getting the first 3 inch jaws to catch the dovetails is the only tricky part.  To leave 5 inches of distance, you have a lot of weight hanging off the back end.
Once you catch them however, you can torque them down a lot.  The rail part of the compressor acts as a torsion spring between the two tightening screws.  The only concern is chewing up the dovetails. 

-Y

PS Maybe I should watch the video first before I comment?

Not a fan of the dovetail "clamp on" type spring compressors. To me they look like an accident just waiting to happen. Others are welcome to do things as they wish. I prefer the pipe clamp or "c" clamp types where as the entire body of the action is locked in by means of straps or wood and wing nuts.

[mikeyb]

Great post!
Unfortunately, i do not understand how you can "catch" the compression tube barrel forks without removing the barrel first??
...

Will try to add a photo which should  explain better than any text i can provide. :-)

[Methuselah]

Great post!
Unfortunately, i do not understand how you can "catch" the compression tube barrel forks without removing the barrel first??
...

Will try to add a photo which should  explain better than any text i can provide. :-)

You found some very good examples,  mine's missing, and the one I eluded to (so what - good job)

What I did was sort plunger to alleviate tension, and fork assembly on a slot to release thereafter... ill have to see if i can find it and post a pic. The other designs are fine though 

[Methuselah]

(Wasn't easy to find...)

[Yogi]

(Wasn't easy to find...)

So how do you use it without putting pressure on the barrel?

-Y

[Methuselah]

(Wasn't easy to find...)

So how do you use it without putting pressure on the barrel?

-Y

I built/used it to take a Hatsan 125 apart and it's never been used to reassemble ... I reckon trick will be to be able to screw in the plunger screw and set it back, then push the rifle back enough where ram (or spring with another airgun) is 1 to 2" away, ram gives 1", screw gives another. So I'd be SOL if it was too difficult to get within 2" of having it back together.

Below is a close up of the end that pushes on the front of the chamber. Not sure the original pic had it, but I made a pusher block out of wood to capture and protect the end cap, so for another gun would use a rag or make a different block.

Still all said, this was probably overkill, any of the other designs cutting up a big c clamp would work, maybe better since the screw would be longer than the 2" I gave myself (the slot gives more on the fork end, but like I said, gotta be able to "push" to within 2").

Uh, oops? I had taken off the barrel first.