New member - have a Beeman Sportsman RS3 that is not accurate

[barefootdiver]

Hi, I just joined this group to see if anyone can give me any insight on making my stock Beeman Sportsman RS3 .177 with the 3x9 scope more accurate.  I have had it for several years and is fairly accurate at 20 yards, but it seems like at any other distance it is off.  I miss a lot of shots at rabbits that I shouldn't.  Especially if I adjust the front of the scope to like 40 when taking a longer shot, it seems like it shoots all over the place.  And if I move it to 10 for a close shot I sometimes miss.
I've attached a photo of a target I just shot at. 
All shots were from a shooting rest with scope at 9 power, shooting Gamo Red Fire pellets.
The two shots in red are at 20 yards with the scope parallax set to 20.  Both right in the bullseye.
The three shots in blue are at 40 yards with the scope parallax set to 40.  All over the place.
The ones in green are at 40 yards with the scope parallax set to 20.  Both just high and a little right.
So do I just leave the scope at 20 and never touch it for closer or longer shots?  Is it a bad scope?
The barrel is clean and the allen bolt is tight.

[Back_Roads]

 What pellets are you using or have tried, it can make a big difference. We will pick this apart and get to the issue.

[TorqueMaster]

My opinion on modern Beeman products is...unfavorable.  So the scope, and it's long term ability to handle spring gun recoil is questionable.

Assuming it's all working correctly -- the first thing I'd say is that the numbers on the parallax adjustment probably do not correctly correspond to the actual distance.  On most of my "cheap" scopes, I ignore the numbers, and set the parallax for the setting that creates the least shift between reticle and target when moving my eye around the behind the scope.  It usually isn't the clearest focus, either.  So yes, if it's working well at "20" for both ranges, I'd leave it there, or tweak *slightly* from there as a starting point. 

It's odd that going to "40" opens up the group so much.  It this repeatable?  Almost seems like something in the scope is loose at "40" to make that much difference.

[lefteyeshot]

My experience with cheap scopes is the AO adjustment is the first thing to go bad. Last few year I have only been buying scopes from Walmart without AO. I figured they would be easier to exchange but none have broke.

Simmons Protarget 30mm tube 3-9x32 mildot $55
Centerpointe 3-9x32 mildot lum $55

Neither has AO. I have 3 or 4 of each. What ever they had in the store at the time. I don't think you need AO out to 50 yards. Just something else to break.

I don't Hunt or pest and I only shoot off a bench. Seems a rabbit head would be hard to hit at 40 yards off hand or leaning against a tree. How many mildots of hold over do you use at 40 yards.

With most guns if I can get holes touching or close at 25 yards I can get most in a three inch bull at 50 with 2 or 3 mildots of hold over. If your RS3 has open sight try it at 20 yards and if it shoots okay you'll know it's the scope.

I only shoot RWS Meisterkueln or R-10 match. They shoot excellent to pretty good in most anything. There's not a lot of difference in .012 cent per pellet and .o32 cents.

[tennx]

Just curious ,have u shot rested using the open sights….with your pellet of choice….thats how I found out about one of my scopes..good luck

[Back_Roads]

 Just for reference it took a good 500 + pellets before my Beeman Dual cal. took to getting great accuracy, it is a matter of leading up the rough barrels. Before that and learning what hold it likes and repeating that, I was getting 6 inch or larger groups with some pellets at only 10 yards. after me and gun break in period groups turned to ragged holes touching, and at 2x the distance. Always check all the screws before every session.

[Matchstickshooter]

 I have had a couple of different Beeman Silver Kodiak through the years that both required me to chamfer the breech as there was quite a burr from being milled. My pellets were not easy to seat; they went in hard, with a snap!. Used a #4 Center Drill from work for a deburr, left a nice chamfer.



 

[Moke]

I had to chamfer the breech on my Beeman Chief gen.1 single shot. I had the same hard clunk loading, and even watched some cork-screw pellet flights because of it.

I'm probably the last guy on this list that you should take technical advise from. But, I'd like to bring this thought/problem forward as a possible suggestion.
My Chief had an issue when I first mounted a scope to it.  In order to get near center on a target, I had to bring my elevation turret to full bottom out, low aiming adjustment.  This caused an aggravating problem that I had no idea how to correct.
Problem:
When the scope was pushed that far into its adjustment range, as soon as I put the rifle down, the scope settings would scramble, as if I'd never made any adjustments at all; just totally off, and off target. So, I'd try again, and, meet the same results.

I got very aggravated about this, and, finally posted on the Pyramid Air blog site (bought it there), where Tom Gaylord was doing a multi-part write up on the Chief.
I asked a question in his blog, and described what I was experiencing with the scope and its scrambling any adjustment that I made. He responded in depth, and, solved my issue.
He suggested that I needed to get a scope mounting base with a forward Canting attitude, to compensate for what he eluded to as similar to a Break Barrel issue of Barrel Droop.  But, mine was a PCP rifle, not a break barrel. He suggested that my barrel was aiming more downward/forward than the scope was capable of, and at full bottom out adjustment, the suspension within my scope was pushed beyond its ability to maintain any adjustment; sort of like popping a seated spring out of its seat, and it not dropping back onto its seat.
He strongly suggested a scope mounting base, a single piece design, that tilts the scope downward at an angle "more parallel" to the barrel.
That scope base was by UTG, and, I found out later, was a design by Mr. Gaylord, who was too humble to mention it in our discussion.
It is a UTG DNT06 +10" https://www.pyramydair.com/product/utg-drooper-scope-rail-11mm-to-weaver-adapter-compensates-for-droop?a=4191

Its this scope base mount, in the image: