Author Topic: Rebuild my 48, questions! (Read 7647 times))

hzyl0402 · « **on:** November 02, 2011, 01:19:07 PM »

All right guys,

Just checked the tracking info, JM's lube combo and new seal will come today, and I am going to dissemble my RWS 48 again tonight. Here are some of questions by far in my mind, and I think more will be coming when I am doing the job.
1. I have a bottle of isopropyl alcohol, 70% by volume for first aid, can I use it for cleaning?
2. Is kitchen towel OK for internal part wiping?
3. As told by Dustin in my previous topic " The moly for the outside of the seal , clear tar for outside of compression tube and heavy tar for the spring." I want to know how much should I use them?

Anything you might think a newbie should know, please feel free to point out!

Thank you all!

Liang

Mark 611 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 02, 2011, 01:32:16 PM »

I know my friends will have differing opinions of how I do things so you need to take in all the info you can here here's how I do it, I know some guys burnish lube {Molly or other} into the compression tube I don't because I don't want any dieseling or any detonation issues! so I don't use any lube in the tube accept on the back side of the piston seal and only a very thin coating that you can see thru just a light film! and then I rub Molly about an inch behind the seal and at the other end of the piston here again very thin! I use Molly on all my moving parts outside of the compression area here again alittle gos along way! I'll stop here and let some one else put their 2ct in and if you need to talk to me about this I'll give you PH#

Kailua · « **Reply #2 on:** November 02, 2011, 01:48:55 PM »

ARH also sells piston buttons. Could use an expert tuners opinion on this also. Also a 1/2" wooden dowel and cut a slit down the middle where you can attach a rag to clean the cylinder.

Mark 611 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 02, 2011, 01:58:00 PM »

Usually when I do a tune I'll polish the piston and clean it with brake cleaner or other like starting fluid because it will dry up any oils left behind or buffing compound! if you want to button a piston clean it as said place the buttons every 120 degrees around the piston than then you'll have to sand them to fit the compression tube.

Gary · « **Reply #4 on:** November 02, 2011, 01:59:24 PM »

The alcohol you have will work.
I use the moly on the compression tube very sparingly and then wipe out with a clean paper towel. Also behind the seal and at the rear of the piston ad on other moving parts such as cocking lever pins etc.
Clear tar on the outside of the compression tube.
Heavy tar on the spring. Do not glob it on. I try to make my spring look like it has been painted. Use to much and the rifle will shoot real slow.
Gary
PS: A little moly on the guide and spring ends. Just remember a little goes a long way.

hzyl0402 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:11:23 PM »

Thanks guys, just check the mail box, and here they are! I can't wait no longer, let do it!
let me dissemble my gun, and I will let you know what's going on.

hzyl0402 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:33:28 PM »

Now every thing is out. looks like I used too many heavy tar last time....
Next step, Alcohol + kitchen towel!

hzyl0402 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:40:07 PM »

Here is JM's spring, look at the tar, is it still too thick? should I clean it up and recoat with lighter heavy tar?

Gary · « **Reply #8 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:43:51 PM »

A lot of tar on that spring, I would clean it off and try again.
Gary

Mark 611 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:00:03 PM »

yes sir thats allot!

hzyl0402 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:51:36 PM »

How about now? is it too light? and should I lube the rear spring guide? and how?

Liang

JimL911 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:59:06 PM »

I use a little more tar. I run light strings down the length of spring at 12,3,6 and 9 o'clock. Normal use will spread it.

Mark 611 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:59:58 PM »

ya that's a tic to light, rub enough on the out side of the spring to lightly cover it I try to string it like a spied er web! and use a light coat of molly on the tips of the spring ends and spring guide needs a light coat of molly as well

hzyl0402 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 02, 2011, 05:08:45 PM »

seal problem solved.
here is the piston, seal coated with light moly and end of the piston with light moly. is there anything I should do before put it into compression chamber?

Mark 611 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 02, 2011, 06:34:09 PM »

nope!

hzyl0402 · « **Reply #15 on:** November 02, 2011, 06:36:49 PM »

Finally!!! I finished!!! This thing is sweet! the machinery has no noisy at all! Like the clear tar very much, just a little can make the gun super smooth.

Thanks again everyone!

Liang

Mark 611 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 02, 2011, 06:48:07 PM »

Glad we could help!

ray in wi · « **Reply #17 on:** November 02, 2011, 09:00:27 PM »

Wow! That was awesome the way you guys helped out on this tune!!! This is great place to visit!!
About the only other thing I would have suggested is to take a fine to medium file and take all the burrs off the tube, piston and cocking shoe, but hey, you can do it next time.
Ray

Mark 611 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 02, 2011, 09:09:09 PM »

ray they don't have a cocking shoe or a slot to worry about like a break barrel!

s10gto · « **Reply #19 on:** November 02, 2011, 11:14:24 PM »

Nice Job Liang!

Enjoy

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Rebuild my 48, questions!

Author Topic: Rebuild my 48, questions! (Read 7647 times))