A Shooter Once Again - Crosman Model 114 Co2 Bulk Fill Air Rifle

[c801tfd]

I bought this Crosman 114 from Baker Airguns about a week after the purchase of the BSF Model S60. The 114 was priced to move since it was not holding Co2. Tonight I decided to clean it up and install new seals before it got any colder. Sprucing up the exterior will not be to bad as it was in very nice shape appearance wise, knowing this I may just spruce the stock up this winter or early next spring.

After installing the new seals and charging it with Co2 it holds the gas, no leaks detected and fires pellets with authority. At this time it takes its place next to the Model 113 I found last July (18 months have passed and still holding its charge). Here’s hoping the 114 can do the same.

The pictures below are of the 114 - It has the grainy Elm stock and my 113 - sports the plain stock, not sure which wood but thinking Maple but not sure.

[TerryM]

  The 114 is an awesome rifle.  Adjustable power, accuracy make them my favorite shooters.  With a scope, groups under 1/2" at 20 yards.

[c801tfd]

TerryM,

I was hoping it will be as accurate as my 113, based on your comment I shoud have no worries with that. 

[c801tfd]

I just noticed that the serial #'s are very close on the 113 and 114, makes me wonder if they were on the same assembly line one day being only 193 numbers apart. They also have very similar stapings that lack any reference to being a Crosman.

Model 113: 241360
Model 114: 241167

[Goose]

Very nice work!  Glad to see another fine example returned to shooting duty.

Please do let us know how well it shoots.

Be safe,

J~

[DWTrull]

The early bulkfills have a Crosman "C" on the buttplate and Crosman address stamped on the breech plug where the power adjuster is.

The stock on the 114 should have been Maple. Relatively close 114 serials both below and above yours are Maple. (241133 Maple, 242796 Maple) Baker guns from the Ron Saul collections often have swapped parts which I believe is the case with your rifle. Frankly the elm is a nicer appearing stock anyway.
Generally speaking, Maple stocks are on early 113-114's and Elm is on later 113-114. This applies to all the Crosman rifles during this period 107-114

[c801tfd]

Dave,

I will check them out for address info, I know neither has the “C” on the butt plate. My 113 did not have one and got lucky and found one that needed a little trimming to fit so not sure what it may have had initially. The 114 came with an unmarked butt plate but not sure if it is original to rifle or if some in the past replaced it as well.

Again thanks for the info, I will keep you updated on what I find

[DWTrull]

oops,
I meant the early Town and Country Senior style buttplate, not a "C" style.
Just checked the Baker auction for your gun and it looks like a standard lined buttplate

[c801tfd]

No markings on rear of bolt or power adjuster screw except increase or decrease power. I have seen a lot of them stamped Crossman on the left of breech with caliber my two just have the caliber.

[DWTrull]

Here is an example of the rear muzzle plug with stamped logo

[c801tfd]

Dave,

Thank you for the picture, based on yours I was looking at the correct area. I took a couple in that general area last night but forgot to upload them, I will do that tonoght. Unfortunatley still mine have no stampings of any kind in this location, very odd it seems.   

[c801tfd]

Dave,

I found the markings, I had to remove the power level screw on each rifle and the the markings appeared as you indicated. Don’t know why I didn’t remove them before. The 114 is in the top photo.

[Bluesteel6900]

I just joined this group, so hopefully you can answer a question for me. I've stripped my 114 down to a point where now I'm down to removing the check valve, but can't figure out how. The nut is removed, but the valve still remains. Do I use a wooden dowel from the barrel end to punch it out? Any help is appreciated.

[bantam5s]

The bulk fill aspect never interested me, but these rifles and the pistols have always seemed to sell fairly reasonably on Ebay.
I'd guess there's not exactly a ton of people who are interested in the Bulk fill.
I would also guess that they're worth the trouble and that I and others like me are missing out.

[c801tfd]

Here is a link to the old Crosman repair manual. Information on the 113 and 114 is found in section 6.

https://airgunwarriors.com/resources/library/Vintage_Crosman_Airguns_Factory_Service_Manual_all.pdf

[Matchstickshooter]

The bulk fill aspect never interested me, but these rifles and the pistols have always seemed to sell fairly reasonably on Ebay.
I'd guess there's not exactly a ton of people who are interested in the Bulk fill.
I would also guess that they're worth the trouble and that I and others like me are missing out.

Once you have the tank, hose and fittings the co2 is cheaper in the long run, compared to buying the carts.
  I have two 9oz bottles. to fill one costs about $4.
       

[OneDollarBob]

I just joined this group, so hopefully you can answer a question for me. I've stripped my 114 down to a point where now I'm down to removing the check valve, but can't figure out how. The nut is removed, but the valve still remains. Do I use a wooden dowel from the barrel end to punch it out? Any help is appreciated.

The easiest way I found to remove the valve is to connect a fill tank with the nut removed and slowly pressurize the tube. 
You might want to wrap a towel around the other end to catch the valve.
A heads up in advance.  It makes a fairly loud pop when the seal finally gives.
Loud enough, folks might come to check and see that you're okay.

Added some pics of my 113 and 114.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Following... 
This one here is mine.
 I installed a quick disconnect foster fitting in the end-cap and can now fill with a modern "Paint-Ball" CO2 bottle and whip.

[Matchstickshooter]

Following... 
This one here is mine.
 I installed a quick disconnect foster fitting in the end-cap and can now fill with a modern "Paint-Ball" CO2 bottle and whip.

NICE!!

[Matchstickshooter]

I just joined this group, so hopefully you can answer a question for me. I've stripped my 114 down to a point where now I'm down to removing the check valve, but can't figure out how. The nut is removed, but the valve still remains. Do I use a wooden dowel from the barrel end to punch it out? Any help is appreciated.

The easiest way I found to remove the valve is to connect a fill tank with the nut removed and slowly pressurize the tube. 
You might want to wrap a towel around the other end to catch the valve.
A heads up in advance.  It makes a fairly loud pop when the seal finally gives.
Loud enough, folks might come to check and see that you're okay.

Added some pics of my 113 and 114.

Looking Great!