about my hw 97k

[chet]

my 97k is about 10 yrs old, i am going to make a spring guide, it is twangy at the moment, but shoots excellent, i see there are 2 types of guides, one is fitted on the inside and the other i see goes on the outside, which is preferred.

chet

ps is this the stuff for the piston Air Venturi Moly Metal-to-Metal Paste

[Deerstalker]

The ARH kit had both the long lower guide, (near the trigger end), and the top hat guide fitted inside the spring.  I used GPL-205 for lube and the cocking cycle on my HW95 is soundless until the piston latches into the trigger.  After about a year & 3K to 4K pellets the FPS is solid at 705 and rifle is accurate out to 25 to 35 yards.  Just a note that the factory spring did not use a top hat but had a thin steel washer between the spring end and piston shield or shell which I also reinstalled with the ARH kit.

I should add that both guides seemed to be a tight fit inside the spring coils.

[Roadworthy]

If you are using the original spring you should figure on a guide which fits snugly inside the spring.  You would probably not have clearance for a guide outside the spring.  An external guide requires a more tightly coiled spring.  My personal preference is an internal guide as it allows a larger spring diameter.  You will want a small amount of moly lube on the lip of the piston seal.  You should also apply a bit of lube on the spring to allow it to slide more freely along the guide and inside the tube.

[sicumj]

     I just made some guides for my R10.  Made a slight friction fit to ID of spring to both the top hat and spring guide.  I used Krytox 205 for lube and used a moly impregnated seal.  Really calmed it down.

[nced]

my 97k is about 10 yrs old, i am going to make a spring guide, it is twangy at the moment, but shoots excellent, i see there are 2 types of guides, one is fitted on the inside and the other i see goes on the outside, which is preferred.

chet

ps is this the stuff for the piston Air Venturi Moly Metal-to-Metal Paste

To kill twang the guide needs to fit the ID tightly and an "outer guide" is of no use. The reason for a tight "inner guide" is that the spring ID and OD increases when the spring is compressed, then reduces when the spring is extended at the end of the shot. When an internal guide is properly sized it grips the spring tightly before cocking. The expanding spring releases the guide when the gun is cocked which reduces sliding friction. At the end of the shot cycle the expanded spring again grips the spring guide which stops "spring oscillation" that a loose guide (factory or machined) allows. This oscillation of coils after the piston comes to a stop is the cause of twang & felt vibration.
 
As a side note concerning "outer guides".........
Since an "outer guide" only contacts the spring OD when the spring is cocked and then the spring released the "outer guide" when extended allowing twang & vibration. Years ago I used an aftermarket spring kit with my .177 R9 that had both an inner guide and and outer guide. It did a good job of killing twang and vibration but so do my home turned spring guides without an outer guide.


When I cut my spring guides (I prefer Delrin plastic) they are fitted so it requires twisting counter the spring wind while pulling to remove. If a guide I cut can be removed simply by pulling out of the spring I consider it too loose and save it for another spring (all springs vary a bit in diameter, even the same "brand") and cut a new guide that is a few thou larger and retest. If the guide diameter is too large to push into the spring it's an easy process to "shave down" (or sand down) the guide for a perfect "twist and pull" fit..............

[Springrrrr]

If you have a few bucks to spend, a Vortek spring kit is your friend.  It contains both a very tight inner guide and an outer guide as well.  That appears to be the best of both worlds.

A reasonable amount of spring tar is the cherry on the top of the cake, but don't overdo on it or it can work against you.

I have an external guide only on my Walther LGU and it does a great job of killing vibration.  The factory internal guide is snug but not tight.  The gun shoots one hole at 40 yards with this set up and some hard trigger work.

[Oldgringo]

Motorhead custom fit his guide and top hat to my .177 cal. 97K's original spring.  She shoots very well, power and accuracy wise.

[Yogi]

Motorhead custom fit his guide and top hat to my .177 cal. 97K's original spring.  She shoots very well, power and accuracy wise.

+1 for Motorhead's guides and top hat!

-Y

[Cslinger]

Unless you simply want a project (which I get) then simply order a kit from ARH or Vortek and call it a day.  Your spring could probably be replaced after a decade of presumed use as well. I have used both products and I am happy with either but I think the ARH kits produce a nicer “thunk” sound of you will.

[Bayman]

Unless you simply want a project (which I get) then simply order a kit from ARH or Vortek and call it a day.  Your spring could probably be replaced after a decade of presumed use as well. I have used both products and I am happy with either but I think the ARH kits produce a nicer “thunk” sound of you will.

I agree. The chances are the spring is bent if the gun has been used normally for ten years. Weihrauch springs aren't the best. I broke the factory springs in both my first Hw30 and Hw95 in the first year. The 95s was broken in three pieces. The guns were never dry fired and standard weight lead pellets were used. I just shoot a lot. Even the factory springs in my lightly used Hw30 and Hw50 came out bent after a few months of use.
Pick a kit and a new seal and be done with it.