Why won't my 362 fire?

[Keepingitsimple]

My new steel breech kit came in from PA and after installing it, my 362 will not fire.

This passage from the hard air magazine article describes where I was at in the process:
https://hardairmagazine.com/news/lets-fit-a-steel-breech-to-the-crosman-362/

"If it doesn’t snap into place easily, then something’s wrong. Try again! And maybe again…

Now insert the rear slot head screw in the top rear of the breech and tighten “just enough”. That will hold everything together while you finish assembly.

At this point we tried a “dry fire”, cocking the bolt and pulling the trigger. If everything works well, you can replace those tiny setscrews in the breech and barrel band. Tighten-up the slot-head breech screw, too."
--
My new steel breech kit installed easily. Everything snapped into place. Inserted the rear slot head screw in the top rear of the breech and tightened it “just enough”.

Tried a dry fire and the gun wouldn't fire. I had put the new extension probe and handle in and I cocked the bolt to dry fire it, but the gun won't fire.

Thinking the screw was binding the hammer I took the steel breech off and put the plastic breech back on and screwed the longer screw in.

My 362 still won't fire. It's as though it has valve lock. The trigger pulls all the way through without releasing the hammer and firing the gun.

Help!

[Firewalker]

Remove the barrel and breech, pull the hammer back, release. Does the hammer stick at all? Is the hammer spring installed?

Take the side plate off the trigger assembly and see if the sear is pulling down when pulling the trigger.

Is the bolt closed before cocking it's when assembled?

Is the safety in the off position?

[Mintyman]

What Firewalker said. Check your hammerspring. The bolt should be in the breech and in front of the cocking pin also.

[Keepingitsimple]

Remove the barrel and breech, pull the hammer back, release. Does the hammer stick at all? Is the hammer spring installed?

Take the side plate off the trigger assembly and see if the sear is pulling down when pulling the trigger.

Is the bolt closed before cocking it's when assembled?

Is the safety in the off position?

I took the barrel and breech off. The hammer is stuck.

I took the stock off. I took the trigger sideplate off and attempted to pull the trigger which caused the parts inside the trigger assembly to jumble together and a spring flew across the room. The hammer spring is still stuck.

And now, I need to learn how to put the trigger assembly back together.

One thing I did notice is the lack of lubricated parts. I'l be applying some white lithium grease at the contact points.

[Keepingitsimple]

What Firewalker said. Check your hammerspring. The bolt should be in the breech and in front of the cocking pin also.

The hammerspring is stuck.

[CraigH]

Poor instructions from HAM.   Dry fire BEFORE installing the 4-48 screw?   (Not a set screw).    I always hold the assembly of breech(and barrel) and tube with the TP in place and install the 4-48 screw to a just right torque first.   The rear screw is then installed.   This order will insure the 4-48 screw's integrity - i.e., neither threads or head stripped.

And HAM say at the end to install the barrel to breech set screw.   That should be done BEFORE assembling the barrel/breech sub-assembly onto the air tube.

[Keepingitsimple]

Poor instructions from HAM.   Dry fire BEFORE installing the 4-48 screw?   (Not a set screw).    I always hold the assembly of breech(and barrel) and tube with the TP in place and install the 4-48 screw to a just right torque first.   The rear screw is then installed.   This order will insure the 4-48 screw's integrity - i.e., neither threads or head stripped.

And HAM say at the end to install the barrel to breech set screw.   That should be done BEFORE assembling the barrel/breech sub-assembly onto the air tube.

My problem (I think) is that my valve stem is stuck. Do you know how to unstick one??
I took off the end cap and took the hammer and spring out.

[Keepingitsimple]

What Firewalker said. Check your hammerspring. The bolt should be in the breech and in front of the cocking pin also.

The hammerspring is stuck.

It's not the hammerspring.

[Keepingitsimple]

Remove the barrel and breech, pull the hammer back, release. Does the hammer stick at all? Is the hammer spring installed?

Take the side plate off the trigger assembly and see if the sear is pulling down when pulling the trigger.

Is the bolt closed before cocking it's when assembled?

Is the safety in the off position?

I took the barrel and breech off. The hammer is stuck.

I took the stock off. I took the trigger sideplate off and attempted to pull the trigger which caused the parts inside the trigger assembly to jumble together and a spring flew across the room. The hammer spring is still stuck.

And now, I need to learn how to put the trigger assembly back together.

One thing I did notice is the lack of lubricated parts. I'l be applying some white lithium grease at the contact points.

The hammer is now unstuck and I removed it along with the hammer spring. I think its the valve and/or valve stem that is stuck.

[avator]

It's times like this that pictures are worth a million. Many of us have different names for different parts and it's just a guess based on descriptions.
For example... I have no idea what HAM is talking about when they say "snaps in place"... nothing on my gun "snaps" in place.

[Keepingitsimple]

It's times like this that pictures are worth a million. Many of us have different names for different parts and it's just a guess based on descriptions.
For example... I have no idea what HAM is talking about when they say "snaps in place"... nothing on my gun "snaps" in place.

I'm thinking this whole thing was a pre-existing problem I wasn't aware of when my problems w/ the steel breech started. Evidently, I'd pumped my gun but hadn't fired it when the bolt probe jammed in the breech.

Now I have a valve filled with a few pumps of air and the trigger doesn't work to fire the gun.

[avator]

Well, if it was me I would just start taking the gun apart until I found the issue. That may not be an option for you because  I have taken many of these lego guns apart and put them back together. You may not have that experience and know what to look for.
But if I had to guess... if you probe is stuck in the breech, it sounds to me like you didn't get the little breech screw in deep enough for the bolt to clear. Another thing is, you may have screwed the cocking knob in too far and it's pinned the probe in the breech.
Then there is the sear, the hammer may be in front of it. There is alot that can be wrong and without having the gun in my hand, I really can't help.

[CraigH]

My problem (I think) is that my valve stem is stuck. Do you know how to unstick one??
I took off the end cap and took the hammer and spring out.

With dowel rod of appropriate diameter (meaning near tube ID) and length, point the TP away, put the dowel rod in the tube and smack it down on the work bench.

But even if the valve is stuck, the hammer will cock and deliver a blow to the valve stem.

[CraigH]

Except for the rear slot head screw impinging on hammer spring, nothing can hold the spring.   And even using the incorrect of the two screw lengths, generally only results in inconsistent performance.

If the gun was dropped on my lap, I would;

- Take the top end off
- Remove the air tube end cap and hammer spring
- Ensure perfect centering of the barrel port in the breech hole
- Tighten the set screw on top of the breech locking the barrel in place
- Ensure the hammer pin is protruding through the air tube slot
- Point the gun up - pull the trigger to ensure the hammer is to the back of the air tube (possibly the problem)
- Ensure the TP to valve seal is in through the air tube and on the valve
- Place the TP tapered side up, short side down
- With the bolt forward place the barrel/breech assembly squarely on the TP and hammer pin in its slot
- Clamp down firmly - the breech and air tube must essentially meet
- While holding the assembly together move the bolt to the rear
- Insert and tighten the 4-48 screw to that "just right" point
- Insert the breech end cap (if desired)
- Insert the hammer spring into the hammer
- Test the length of rear slot head screw - if good remove and continue
- Insert the air tube end cap
- Install the rear slot head screw
- Install the rear grip screw (in this case the rear trigger assembly screw)

[avator]

Craig... if his bolt is stuck in the breech he is not going to be able to get to the small breech screw to take the top end off. At least this is what I picture from his description.

[Rob M]

the good news is after this you will be able to diagnose all crosman guns by sound and feel. because the schematic will be locked into your brain

[avator]

Yep.... you will be a lego master... 

[avator]

I also have a sneaking feeling that the mysterious green spacer is playing a role in the problem. He hasn't mention that and he's had the spring out. If it's not on the spring, it's somewhere in there.

Jacob, if and when you find the green plastic spacer, toss it in the trash and never think about it again.

[CraigH]

Craig... if his bolt is stuck in the breech he is not going to be able to get to the small breech screw to take the top end off. At least this is what I picture from his description.

I misread - thought that was pre steel breech.         Makes me think the hammer pin is somehow jammed.  Hence my step six of Crosman lego assembly;

"- Point the gun up - pull the trigger to ensure the hammer is to the back of the air tube (possibly the problem)"

A Beeman Chief, due to factory assembly error, caused the need to mill off the probe of the bolt.   Not quite what the OP would wish to do.

[Tack Driver 10]

Sounds like when the steel breech was installed the cocking pin on the hammer is jammed up in the bolt.
Need to make sure when installing that the bolt is clear of it and slides freely.