My 362 journey

[2K1TJ]

Just making this thread to keep up with my build as it takes place. I've had my 362 for a while now, but rotator cuff surgery 2 weeks ago has slowed me a bit.

First thing I did was add a muzzle adapter and a moderator. That took the front sight away, so no groups until I get a dovetailed breech mounted.

Although I can't get into a shooting position with my lame shoulder, I was able to hold the stock between my legs/feet and pump with my left hand to run a few over the chrony for a baseline.

My numbers seem a touch lower than others I've seen with the same CPHP's I used.


3 pumps, 461 fps avg
5 pumps, 551 fps avg
7 pumps, 610 avg
8 pumps, 633 avg
10 pumps, 670 avg

[2K1TJ]

Next up was a little trigger work. I ordered the Baker unit and then saw that mods would be needed to make it work. The nub on the original trigger blade for the return spring isn't found on the Baker one. I drilled and tapped it for an 8-32 screw with the head cut off to take the place of the nub. Works great.

[mikeyb]

Everyone that's trying to use the Baker trigger in the 362 should proceed with caution. It looks to me like that trigger is just the WRONG shape for the 362 group!

What's that added screw nub for?

The unmodified Baker trigger blade shape looks like it will not be blocked by the safety button. Does your safety work in this configuration?

Also, the contact point where the Baker blade meets the lever in this 362 group looks wrong. It may still work but not as originally designed.

The top of the baker trigger looks very close to the primary sear. Is there any interference during cocking as the primary sear moves down to clear the hammer?

Again, just urging caution here as trigger mods can lead to uncertain and possibly dangerous conditions.

(Disclaimer: Not my images, borrowed and cropped from other sources.)

[avator]

The only downside to the modified Baker brass trigger is the fact that the adjustments will not be utilized unless further modifications are applied.
Cocking is the same and the safety works as intended.
This is the case in mine.

[Wayne52]

I still haven't tried 10 pumps in mine yet, anyone that wants to install the steel breech will need to use the original bolt that needs to be modified to work in the steel breech because the original is an extended bolt.  If you use the one that comes with the steel breech assembly you'll lose velocity because the stock 2240 bolt is shorter. The original bolt that comes with the C362 has the handle riveted in instead of screw in, I drove the riveted one out, drilled and tapped to to work with the handle that threads in.

[Back_Roads]

 Going to have to check this , yesterday I installed a steel breach kit I stole off my 2260, the original 2260 plastic breach bolt was not pushing the pellet past the TP hole, but only 1.2 way, and had no cone to keep the skirts from collapsing from the air CO2 blast.
 Seems to be many variations of the probe across the leggo gun platform.

[Wayne52]

James one thing that I forgot to do when I had mine apart last time was to check the distance from the breech to the transfer port, I had intentions of doing that before I even took the gun back apart but got so involved in reassembling it after putting my modified bolt back in it.  I was going to compare it to an 18" Crosman barrel, I even had the barrel out as well.  These newer Crosman barrels are a smidgen tighter than the older ones too.

[2K1TJ]

What's that added screw nub for?

The unmodified Baker trigger blade shape looks like it will not be blocked by the safety button. Does your safety work in this configuration?

Also, the contact point where the Baker blade meets the lever in this 362 group looks wrong. It may still work but not as originally designed.

The top of the baker trigger looks very close to the primary sear. Is there any interference during cocking as the primary sear moves down to clear the hammer?

Again, just urging caution here as trigger mods can lead to uncertain and possibly dangerous conditions.

(Disclaimer: Not my images, borrowed and cropped from other sources.)

The added screw nub is for the return spring to press on on the back side. I cut it a little long so it comes all the way through. I need to trim it flush next time I have it open.

The safety functions as it should, it cocks fine, and passes the bump test. Thanks for the words of caution.

[2K1TJ]

The only downside to the modified Baker brass trigger is the fact that the adjustments will not be utilized unless further modifications are applied.

I may drill and tap and use the screws that came with the Baker kit, but honestly it feels so much better now it's not way up there on my priority list.

[avator]

Ashley.... I'm right there with you on this spring stop mod. I'll be adding it to mine next time in.

[Back_Roads]

Going to have to check this , yesterday I installed a steel breach kit I stole off my 2260, the original 2260 plastic breach bolt was not pushing the pellet past the TP hole, but only 1.2 way, and had no cone to keep the skirts from collapsing from the air CO2 blast.
 Seems to be many variations of the probe across the leggo gun platform.

 Here are my initial findings.
Here are my crony results with factory setup and steel breach and probe, using CPHP 14.3

  7 pumps on all shots both rifles.
 First factory 626-627-629-632
 Now with pellet seated just past the Barrel port to allow full blast. 623-628-628-621

 Here is the shots same pumps pellets as above, 24" barrel.
 Factory Steel Breach and Probe "just seat the pellet with the probe/ bolt". 626- 627-625-628
 Here is the seated to clear the barrel port. 584-588-591-586

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=195520.msg156274946#msg156274946

 So I will let that stand as my proof. of concept, that maybe Crosman did some research

[erdnuss]

Everyone that's trying to use the Baker trigger in the 362 should proceed with caution. It looks to me like that trigger is just the WRONG shape for the 362 group!

Hi Michael, I think that in those photos the trigger pivot pin is not actually seated.  Here is one from my gun, with everything assembled, other than the top cover.  The trigger is pretty well clear of the sear.

[Van]

Everyone that's trying to use the Baker trigger in the 362 should proceed with caution. It looks to me like that trigger is just the WRONG shape for the 362 group!

Hi Michael, I think that in those photos the trigger pivot pin is not actually seated.  Here is one from my gun, with everything assembled, other than the top cover.  The trigger is pretty well clear of the sear.

  You are right about the other picture.  That trigger is too far forward, and the pin can't be seated in the hole like that.

[2K1TJ]

Everyone that's trying to use the Baker trigger in the 362 should proceed with caution. It looks to me like that trigger is just the WRONG shape for the 362 group!

Hi Michael, I think that in those photos the trigger pivot pin is not actually seated.  Here is one from my gun, with everything assembled, other than the top cover.  The trigger is pretty well clear of the sear.

You could be right. I pulled the cover back off to take the pic and the pin sometimes sticks in the cover. I may not have had it right when I took the pic.

[mikeyb]

Everyone that's trying to use the Baker trigger in the 362 should proceed with caution. It looks to me like that trigger is just the WRONG shape for the 362 group!

Hi Michael, I think that in those photos the trigger pivot pin is not actually seated.  Here is one from my gun, with everything assembled, other than the top cover.  The trigger is pretty well clear of the sear.

Thanks for the photo. That looks MUCH better. Was concerned about injuries.