This is my C362...

[avator]

So, how does one get the trigger to sit back in the trigger frame like that? Well, certainly not by grinding any material off of the V4.1 trigger so put your little Dremels away, we won't be needing them now.

This is where a caveman may struggle... you see, cavemen have 20 toes. 10 of them on their hands... at least this caveman does...
In the area circled in red you can see that the nub on the front of the trigger acts as a stop to prevent the trigger from rotating up into the frame. That stops that long first stage travel. I don't know if Mike did this intentionally but if he did, the man is a genius. If not, I want some of his luck because it sets the trigger at the perfect location to give us a short and very safe 1/8" first stage pull to a very crisp release of the hammer.
Ok, remember the toes?
The biggest challenge for me is getting the trigger return spring in place while positioning the nub on the trigger below the frame. I had to put the spring in and compress it with a flat blade screw driver to drop the trigger into position. Hence the LED head lamp and roller magnet...... twice. 

[avator]

BTW.... the return spring included in the Baker brass trigger is SWEET !! The problem is.. you have to buy the Baker kit to get one.... I happen to have 2... 
An ink pen spring clipped at the right length would have saved me lots of money.... don't tell the accountant.

[avator]

Moving right along....
The next question one might ask is... "Mr. Bill, why all the little colored circles in your picture? Are you having problems with holding your crayons with your toes?"
Well, yes but, no.
The yellow one shows another example of Mike's genius... whether he knows it or not, he made that hole in the trigger snug on the pin. This causes the pin to rotate in the pockets rather than the trigger rotating on the pin. This eliminates slop. Ya feel me? Well, ya won't feel the slop. That's also due to the nub circled in green. That nub rides the rib in the frame.... hint: polish this area of the frame and put some moly on it.

[avator]

Digging into my box of 64 colored crayons I found this nice little blue one. I just had to find a way to get this color into the program... I like blue. Matter of fact, I like blue so much that I used it to point out 2 things...
The first one is the lawyer spring....  STOP !!! Why do they call it a lawyer spring? Well, that's because it controls the safety which keeps the lawyers off the manufacturer's butts. In this case it also supplies the tension to set the sear into the hammer when the gun is cocked. Oddly enough, tension is a two way street... the tension pushing the sear into the hammer is equal to the tension required to pull it back out releasing the hammer.
Again... ya feel me? Reducing that tension reduces trigger pull.
And to reduce trigger pull you simply hold the lawyer spring between your index toe and your thumb toe and give it a squeeze.... not too much... just enough to relax the tension a bit.

[avator]

Now for part two in blue... I crack me up... 

I've read some say they had trouble with this area of the trigger not leaving clearance for the safety bar to function. Yep, I can see that but, only if you didn't install the trigger like I've shown above.
You see, if the trigger is allowed to rotate up into the frame then that upper radius on the back of it will rotate down into the path of the safety bar.

[avator]

That concludes my tutorial on the installation of the TKO V4.1 trigger.
Now go outside and play with your BB guns.

[tennx]

That concludes my tutorial on the installation of the TKO V4.1 trigger.
Now go outside and play with your BB guns.

Fascinating….I give it 5 ⭐️…….

[Back_Roads]

 I was putting the TKO C362 prototype trigger in my 362 #760 and read along as you posted.

 I was working with a factory stock gun, so I thought I would test with original spring, but squeezed the OE spring to compression with a plyers set to the wide opening, it did take a set and helped with installation, along with setting the trigger pin so it was just past the back side of the trigger enough to find and catch the hole that the pin will seat in once into position. Start with the trigger forward the larger squarish notch in the trigger allows it to line up in front of the trigger spring, and then slide back to set the pin and trigger in the hole.
 
Bill answered my question that came up with the trigger I installed yesterday in # 999, there I trimmed the the tab that is supposed to be on the outside, and if I push it forward I can set the safety, but there was the extra 1st stage travel issue coming of of safe. Though the trigger would function as a short 1st stage when not engaging the safety, and just shooting.

 On this one that I followed bills instruction on I found the safety, will engage by pulling the trigger back while pushing the safety on, after a few cycles mine did wear in to work just fine, in only a few cycles.

 With OE springs and the trigger spring compression, and the sear spring compression mod that Bill noted, it is a very light predictable trigger, just dry firing I have no issues with the sights moving off target with a predictable point of break.

 Thanks for stopping me before I made the same mistake twice Bill 


 

[Wayne52]

Wayne.... you bring a whole nuther approach to the "cheap fun" factor to the game. That being casting your own ammo. I'm digging it but, so far, I have not convinced my accoounting department of the long term cost savings that the initial investment will produce. For some weird reason, she thinks paying bills and putting food on the table is more important.... yeah, I don't get it either.

If I may make a suggestion, buy the moulds from NOE whenever you find them. I have yet to talk to them about the undersized .22 magnums moulds but the .22 hunter pellets are perfect. The .22 wadcutter moulds are still unavailable and I've been checking their site daily for about six months now. There is a thread on the NOE forum so we live with the hope they're going to make them this year. Should you decide to cast your own pellets,  it is a arduous task in obtaining the moulds. In order to make the casting idea more cost-effective  you need pellet traps to recover and recast used pellets. I'd say my investment so far is about $500 in casting paraphernalia.

I just cast up some of the .22 Magnum Hunters the other day, I've never had them come out undersized ever, they're about the best shooting 22 cal pellets I cast, especially when doing them long 50+ yard shots.

[brewbear]

Wayne.... you bring a whole nuther approach to the "cheap fun" factor to the game. That being casting your own ammo. I'm digging it but, so far, I have not convinced my accoounting department of the long term cost savings that the initial investment will produce. For some weird reason, she thinks paying bills and putting food on the table is more important.... yeah, I don't get it either.

If I may make a suggestion, buy the moulds from NOE whenever you find them. I have yet to talk to them about the undersized .22 magnums moulds but the .22 hunter pellets are perfect. The .22 wadcutter moulds are still unavailable and I've been checking their site daily for about six months now. There is a thread on the NOE forum so we live with the hope they're going to make them this year. Should you decide to cast your own pellets,  it is a arduous task in obtaining the moulds. In order to make the casting idea more cost-effective  you need pellet traps to recover and recast used pellets. I'd say my investment so far is about $500 in casting paraphernalia.

I just cast up some of the .22 Magnum Hunters the other day, I've never had them come out undersized ever, they're about the best shooting 22 cal pellets I cast, especially when doing them long 50+ yard shots.

Not to step on Bill's toes, but my moulds are from the second run and they are undersized, there is a thread around here where I posted pictures with calipers measurements.

[Firewalker]

So, how does one get the trigger to sit back in the trigger frame like that? Well, certainly not by grinding any material off of the V4.1 trigger so put your little Dremels away, we won't be needing them now.

This is where a caveman may struggle... you see, cavemen have 20 toes. 10 of them on their hands... at least this caveman does...
In the area circled in red you can see that the nub on the front of the trigger acts as a stop to prevent the trigger from rotating up into the frame. That stops that long first stage travel. I don't know if Mike did this intentionally but if he did, the man is a genius. If not, I want some of his luck because it sets the trigger at the perfect location to give us a short and very safe 1/8" first stage pull to a very crisp release of the hammer.
Ok, remember the toes?
The biggest challenge for me is getting the trigger return spring in place while positioning the nub on the trigger below the frame. I had to put the spring in and compress it with a flat blade screw driver to drop the trigger into position. Hence the LED head lamp and roller magnet...... twice. 

AHHHHHHHHHH! Thank you Bill! I now know why he sent me TWO of them! 

[avator]

Yeah, sorry it took so long to get motivated enough to take the pictures. It was very hard to explain what I did without the pictures.

[avator]

BTW.... it's not a one gun fluke. I've installed the trigger this way in both guns and the results are exactly the same.

What a transformation !!!

[Firewalker]

I'll get out to the shot and see if this was the same issue I was seeing, if so, I will put the second trigger in and see if I am getting a different outcome. Stand By... 

[avator]

David... like I said...
If your trigger don't sit back as far and mine in the first picture then it's not right.

[avator]

OK, I don't mean to say "it's not right". What I mean is.. it's not installed the same as mine.

[Dadairgunner]

Is anyone having a problem getting the seer to catch the hammer after installing the TKO 4.1 trigger?  My seer no longer catches the hammer after installing the TKO trigger on my 362.

[avator]

Do you have the safety bar back in the gun?
Did you pull the Lawyer spring in front of the safety bar?
Look at the picture I posted with the colored circles... is every thing set the same?
Did you over bend the Lawyer spring too much?

[Dadairgunner]

Yeah lawyer spring and safety re-installed.  Everything seems to match up with the pics.
I'm  wondering if the nub that comes down off the trigger and pushes the bar up into the seer is too long, and therefore not allowing the seer to travel upwards far enough to catch the hammer?

[Dadairgunner]

Yeah lawyer spring and safety re-installed.  Everything seems to match up with the pics.
I'm  wondering if the nub that comes down off the trigger and pushes the bar up into the seer is too long, and therefore not allowing the seer to travel upwards far enough to catch the hammer?

When I hold the stock trigger and the tko trigger next to each other that nub drops atleast an eighth of an inch lower on the tko trigger.