Interesting to note is that the early Crosman 101's, like yours, had an oil felt that wrapped around a groove in the compression body and tied with a string.(see pics) The replacements that come in rebuild kits are a solid ring punched out from a felt pad. The cheaper ones are prone to tear while stretching it over the larger part of the comp. body. That's because the replacements are made for post-war models in which the compression body had a removable washer that held the felt in place. (see pics for comparison)The original pre-war pump washers were punched out of 1/4 inch leather and have an expander to spread it for a tighter seal in the tube. Notice the holes in the compression head in the earlier one. These holes allow air to be forced in behind the leather washer during the pump stroke to also help with a tighter seal. If you plan to use a later style rubber pump cup, then the compression head should be swapped out for a later style. (see pic)The compression chambers can be extremely tight in the tube, especially in the earlier production models. Parts were, more or less, custom fit to individual rifles it seems. Post-war rifles not so much.... Good news is that it doesn't necessarily have to come out. Just swab it and the compression tube out well. You can use mineral spirits to break up the grime inside without damaging any paint. If you do end up taking it out, then some teflon tape will work as a seal when reinstalled. I have seen a few different types of string used from the factory to seal the compression chamber in the tube. The example in the attached pic appears to be asbestos string. See the frayed strands. The gasket used to seal between the valve body and air chambers were also asbestos. These are difficult to remove and normally come out in pieces. The tool I use to remove it is made from an old razor blade. Make sure you clean that groove well. I see some gasket remnants in your photos.Good luckSteven
Lokey, are you referring to the check valve assembly that slides down into the compression chamber? If this is the case I’d order that through Rick “precision pellet”. JG doesn’t list this thatI can see. Maybe they do have them and you could ask.
Quote from: Pellet Fun on December 14, 2021, 06:50:32 PMLokey, are you referring to the check valve assembly that slides down into the compression chamber? If this is the case I’d order that through Rick “precision pellet”. JG doesn’t list this thatI can see. Maybe they do have them and you could ask.Thanks I will try them.
Quote from: xcalibur on December 14, 2021, 05:51:27 PMInteresting to note is that the early Crosman 101's, like yours, had an oil felt that wrapped around a groove in the compression body and tied with a string.(see pics) The replacements that come in rebuild kits are a solid ring punched out from a felt pad. The cheaper ones are prone to tear while stretching it over the larger part of the comp. body. That's because the replacements are made for post-war models in which the compression body had a removable washer that held the felt in place. (see pics for comparison)The original pre-war pump washers were punched out of 1/4 inch leather and have an expander to spread it for a tighter seal in the tube. Notice the holes in the compression head in the earlier one. These holes allow air to be forced in behind the leather washer during the pump stroke to also help with a tighter seal. If you plan to use a later style rubber pump cup, then the compression head should be swapped out for a later style. (see pic)The compression chambers can be extremely tight in the tube, especially in the earlier production models. Parts were, more or less, custom fit to individual rifles it seems. Post-war rifles not so much.... Good news is that it doesn't necessarily have to come out. Just swab it and the compression tube out well. You can use mineral spirits to break up the grime inside without damaging any paint. If you do end up taking it out, then some teflon tape will work as a seal when reinstalled. I have seen a few different types of string used from the factory to seal the compression chamber in the tube. The example in the attached pic appears to be asbestos string. See the frayed strands. The gasket used to seal between the valve body and air chambers were also asbestos. These are difficult to remove and normally come out in pieces. The tool I use to remove it is made from an old razor blade. Make sure you clean that groove well. I see some gasket remnants in your photos.Good luckStevenSteven, that picture of your valve body shows the asbestos material and what appears to be an o-ring too. How would you seal this style?Thanks for sharing your build.
Quote from: xcalibur on December 14, 2021, 06:13:45 PMDon,Thank you for posting all the pics. Kinda looks like somebody used red RTV to try to make seals at some point; but other than that, your rifle has all the original hardware including the valve components.I'd like to add your rifle to the database if you don't mind. Also, could you tell me if the air intake hole is on the left or right side? It looks like on the right, but hard to tell in your pic.It's on the right side. If you need more info on it just ask. Thanks
Don,Thank you for posting all the pics. Kinda looks like somebody used red RTV to try to make seals at some point; but other than that, your rifle has all the original hardware including the valve components.I'd like to add your rifle to the database if you don't mind. Also, could you tell me if the air intake hole is on the left or right side? It looks like on the right, but hard to tell in your pic.
Good info Steven. Thanks for getting back. Reason I asked is I ordered that style exhaust body to replace my damaged one that is a little different. I wasn’t sure if the orange seal alone would work.
Quote from: LOKEY on December 14, 2021, 06:21:28 PMQuote from: xcalibur on December 14, 2021, 06:13:45 PMDon,Thank you for posting all the pics. Kinda looks like somebody used red RTV to try to make seals at some point; but other than that, your rifle has all the original hardware including the valve components.I'd like to add your rifle to the database if you don't mind. Also, could you tell me if the air intake hole is on the left or right side? It looks like on the right, but hard to tell in your pic.It's on the right side. If you need more info on it just ask. ThanksCould I get a sharp photo of the top of the receiver with the bolt pullet back. Looking for any other stamps besides B1561 ?
Not intended to derail... but add to the collective group info gathering."Large Pellet" logo 101, wood forearm, serial # 1177.I believe to be a post war 1946? She is "On Deck" for rebuild this winter.Seal Kit from "Henry Ford" in hand and buying the valve tool from Baker soon.That is why I am following this amazing thread.
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