Leshiy2 inspired build

[JuryRigger]

 
Jesse

[customcutter]

Very impressive!  I will be reading up on your "pilot type valve".

[Spacebus]

Someone making their own equipment is always impressive. I look forward to reading more.

[sb327]

Thank you gentlemen.

As I said, I’ve still got quite a bit left to do on this one. I need to make a shroud, finish out the trigger guard and butt. Then I think I will powder coat everything flat black. Maybe leave a few shiny bits here and there.

Then I’ll be going back to my test setup and testing different variations to the pilot valve. I want to gain a little more control than what it currently has. I’m sure playing with different sizes of the valve, vent, etc. will give different results. I need to figure out what does what.

Dave

[sb327]

I haven’t had a chance to work on this much. Mainly just shooting it some. My kids got me a Hawke 3-12 and I bought a knockoff brand bi-pod. First Hawke I’ve owned and am impressed.

Dave

[darkcharisma]

I have a hawk endurance. I gotta say…I like the clarity. But mine doesnt tract at different ranges even without touching the zoom function, i have it fix at 14 power. I have it on my Crown, replaced that with Bug Buster…good til 150 yards with nsa 17grns.


cool project! whats your max fpe now? I would love to be able to build something like that electronic hammer like yours!!!!

[sb327]

I haven’t stretched this one out to see what kind of power it’ll make. In developing the valve, tuning down was the hardest to get. Full power was relatively easy. Right now I’m shooting 18 grain pills at around 900ish.

I like the reticle on this scope, it can be illuminated but I doubt I ever use that feature.

Dave

[darkcharisma]

Dave,

I must have missed out on your electronic builds. Can you point me to a diagram or elaborate how it works? I would like to tinker on the arduino hammer stuff. Its very interesting!

[sb327]

I’ll try to sketch everything up and post it in the next couple of days.

Dave

[darkcharisma]

it will be very interesting to learn! thank you

[bigHUN]

I am interested in to see as well how the electronic trigger works.
I would like to make one remote to trigger my Impact trigger for BR.

[sb327]

I am interested in to see as well how the electronic trigger works.
I would like to make one remote to trigger my Impact trigger for BR.

Triggering a trigger remotely can be quite simple. A solenoid of sufficient size with corresponding power supply and momentary switch are all that’s really needed.

A more complicated but more efficient means, I have drawn below. Not complicated or expensive really but more intricate than the first option. You can simply increase the size (capacitance) of the capacitor until it reliably fires. If you put a small boost converter in there, you can adjust voltage up to the same effect (just don’t go over capacitor rated voltage.

If you wanted to guarantee as little disturbance as possible, a gearmoter/stepper actuator would possibly be better. Not sure.

Dave

[sb327]

Here is a basic flow/component diagram of my control system. All these components are really cheap and all but the battery and solenoid fit in my grip.

I am not claiming everything here works perfect/as planned but it keeps getting closer and my results to date are still encouraging.

I will post my arduino sketch (program) later today, hopefully.

Dave

[sb327]

and my sketch (code, program)

its really pretty simple, is kind of cluttered with leftover lines but is working

I have a new code but haven't got all the kinks worked out, it has some safety considerations in it

If you are an arduino guy, please don't beat me up too bad, I'm just a novice when it comes to the computer stuff

Dave

[sb327]

Eventually I would like to input tank pressure as a variable and compensate the drop via dwell time, this would eliminate the need for a reg. Just kinda dreaming on that one.

Dave

[Rob M]

your potentiometer reads 0-5volts.. Which is odd, is it hall effect ?? or did you mean 0-5k ohms ? anyway , awesome gun and thanks for making it open source to the forum.EDIT , i see now in the diagram it says ohms, and volts was a typo in the code

[sb327]

your potentiometer reads 0-5volts.. Which is odd, is it hall effect ?? or did you mean 0-5k ohms ? anyway , awesome gun and thanks for making it open source to the forum.EDIT , i see now in the diagram it says ohms, and volts was a typo in the code

It is a 10k ohm pot, it is tied to the 5 volt reference voltage of the arduino and the ground of the arduino. The wiper of the pot sends 0-5volts (depending where it is set) back to the arduino on an analog in pin. The arduino analog to digital converter converts that voltage to an integer between 0-1023.

Hope that clears it up.

Dave

[Rob M]

ok .,,, that makes more sense..hows the gun reliability wise soo far ?

[sb327]

Reliability has been surprisingly good. I’m running a glass filled pei poppet so it seeps from time to time. I want to switch to peek but just haven’t done it. Got a stick of it beside my lathe just waiting.

I’m just messing with fiddly stuff right now, like getting the wires on the battery the correct length, etc.

I’m still working on my 54 Chevy ls conversion as well and my main focus has been on it. I’m about to run out of pretty weather for it though.

On the build though, my next major project is going to be setting up some sensors and seeing if I can catch dwell time actual vs pellet exit from barrel. I think I can catch that with an oscilloscope. There is a portion of my dwell time (programmed) that is just to accelerate the ‘hammer’ of the solenoid and open the valve. You can see in my mapping strategy I started the dwell time at 3500 uSec (3.5 milliseconds). That is what testing showed to be lowest I could go and still open valve.

You don’t happen to know what a reasonable time open for a valve is? Or anyone else reading. That may be a Bob question.

Dave

[Rob M]

i dont know honestly thats a Bob question .., but already finding the lowest possible setting to crack the valves seems like a really good starting point .