Picked up a 392PA, couple small issues

[Hoot36]

Picked up a 392PA, serial # N96...., I’m thinking November 1996, phase 1 “transitional rifle”,...is that correct?
My son and I put about 100 pellets through it,seems pretty accurate. Pump arm doesn’t stay up after you fire it,drops down a couple inches.
Since I can’t leave well enough alone and I can’t help but tinker on any of my firearms, I decided to tear it down,clean it up and order a seal kit and pump cup.
Everything looked pretty good except the end of the pump lever where it goes into the  brass muzzle cap/front plug, it’s a little bent and twisted, also has a couple burrs where it seems to be hitting the underside of the front cap on the upstroke when pumping. I’m thinking that I can maybe straighten that out? Is it possible to get a stock pump lever assembly? Or is the Mac1 billet assembly the best or only choice?
Another question...the bolt lug is pretty rough, I’m assuming that the ground on flat on the side of the head is supposed to be there from factory,but below or above the flat it’s pretty burred up and the head of the cap screw was slightly out of round/squashed, enough so that I had to stone three of the flats on my Allen/hex key wrench to get it to fit in.
Are these available?
I’m new at this 392 stuff, so don’t bust on me too bad,lol

[c801tfd]

Hoot36,

There may be others that sell the items you need I recommend getting with Tim at Mac1 and talk to him about your 392’s condition. He will tell you and I agree he makes parts that are better than OEM such as his billet cocking lever, a little spendy but worth every penny. As they are made for many more shots than standard parts.

Also if your game for it and have the budget he also offers other services intended (steroid) to get the most out of these air rifles performance wise but would require sending it to him for that work.  I cannot remember if your 392 has an adjustable piston cup assembly, if it doesn’t Mac1 has them as well.

The droop I your pump lever may be caused by the ever so bent portion of the pump linkage, which may have been caused by an improper adjustment to the pump assembly or over pumping leading to over stressing the week metal arm or both. Once you get the updated parts the assembly can be adjusted to get the correct cam over that will hold the arm in place.

It also sounds like someone made a wreck of the bolt lug, Tim also sells a lug removal tool that fits over what should have been a hex head. You can also make this lug removal tool tool yourself. If memory serves me correct the  needed components are 2 wing nuts and hex head bolt that takes an size 8 Allen wrench to remove, the actual bolt head becomes your socket head. However, if you get the other items from Mac1 order this from him as well, you may want to check exhaust valve/ cartridge removal tool as well. Yes when properly installed one of the angles of the bolt lug keeps the bolt sealed since resistance to the cover plate has an angle designed in it for adjustment.

Tim also provides his secret sauce when you order your seal kits and sells it as well. I recommend this lubricant and use it in all my pumpers.

I am no expert on these but I have rebuilt a few and I may have missed something in my brief rundown.

Here is a very early Sheridan Model C Blue Streak I rebuilt using Mac1 parts and advise:

[DanD]

Nice gun! I have a phase 2 C9A (same as a 392 but .20 cal), and the pump arm appears identical to a current 392. I am 95% sure the current arm, 397A004, will work for you. I bought one a few years ago for around $20 direct from Crosman.
In a pinch, you can may be able to keep using the old pump arm and fix the headspace/sag problem by using a thick layer of teflon pipe thread tape and extra o-ring between your valve halves to bring the face of the valve to the pump cup.
The MAC1 parts would be a better choice if you are going to pump to very high pressures regularly or just want upgraded parts, but I've had no problem with OEM.
Have fun!

[Hoot36]

Thanks for the replies, I’m leaning towards getting the Mac1 billet,plug,lever and adj piston kit,along with a valve rebuild kit and a couple bolt lugs.