392 trigger mods

[Don.M]

I know I asked this last year, but I can't find my old posts. What are some things that I can do to improve the trigger on my 392?

Does anyone have a diagram of the trigger?
Thanks.

[A.K.A. Tommy Boy]

Hi Don.

This link will take you to all of your past posts >https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=profile;area=showposts;u=62914


Here is what I found about your last years post on your 392 trigger posting and also the response that you got.


Best Wishes - Tom

I went ahead and bought the Baker Scope Mount, and I'm using a Discovery VT-Z 4-16X44 scope - a change from the Thompson/Center muzzle loader scope I was using. Following another person's suggestion, I sighted the rifle @ 10 yards with 5 pumps.

The rifle is now more accurate than I am, 3/8" groups are now the norm and I'm still getting full pass-throughs using .22 Gamo Redfire and Crow Magnum hollow points. I have yet to find a pellet this rifle does not like.

I think the biggest obstacle to accuracy is the trigger (at least in shooting groups, but I don't notice it when I'm actually pesting). The trigger pull has some weight to it, but that, I don't mind. The issue is that it's a LONG pull and I'm used to the two-stage trigger pull on my Glock 19 PB. That has less than 1/4" travel, a hard spot and then bang. The 392 just has a long pull with no indication when it's going to go off. But like I said, it's MUCH more noticeable when target shooting, not so much with chipmunks, but that's easily explained. The thrill of shooting vermin is much higher than punching paper, so I guess I just don't notice the pull.

I don't know if there is a "fix" for the trigger pull, but I do know that I DO NOT have the confidence in doing it myself.

I don't know if there is a "fix" for the trigger pull, but I do know that I DO NOT have the confidence in doing it myself.

Don.M,

There is a "drop in" sear replacement that has an improved sear angle and adds a first stage. Unfortunately it is no longer as pictured in the link and is now an aluminum part with a pressed in roll pin to act as the sear surface. I believe the reviews for the aluminum version are mixed.
 https://www.airgunsofarizona.com/parts/benjamin-supersear/

Polishing and lubing are relatively simple and will help. You also can replace the trigger coil spring with a lighter one or clip a coil. You can tweak the torsion spring to lighten it. Measure the distance from one "leg" to the other prior to yielding it so that you can return it to OEM if you wish and see how much change has been made. Tim McMurray recommends stoning the hammer edge and this does help and is easy. I use Crock Sticks for this task.

I decided to go a bit deeper on mine and it was a rather big improvement...  https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=166326.msg155860888

[Hack21]

Don,

Here are some pictures from the last 392 sear that I ground. I scribed a line onto the larger framing square parallel to the short end. The pivot of the sear and the tip fall very close to that line - I intentionally miss the line so that it isn't quite neutral angle (If this doesn't make sense, please ask). The rafter square keeps it from rocking and is clamped to the framing square. The sandpaper is fine and I add a drop of oil. The work surface is a cast iron table saw top that is milled flat. The portion of the sear that engages the trigger hangs over the edge. I follow up with some polishing. Don't forget the hammer - slightly ease the edges and polish. Then add some molybdenum disulfide or similar lube. Remember that you only need to change the angle on the portion that engages the sear (0.050" if my memory serves?)

There are options to reduce the spring force as well and I'm fairly certain that they were covered in the other thread and/or are obvious. If you tweak the torsion spring, measure the distance from the tip of one leg to the other so that you can keep track and make small incremental changes.

The resulting trigger pull will be a long smooth single stage pull which will be much improved. If you want it better you will need to reduce the sear engagement similar to what Bob had done or convert it to two stage similar to how I had done. Both were covered in that other thread.

[Van]

   I have a Benjamin Super Sear in my 392 that is hardened steel not Aluminum and it is a big improvement over stock.  I did not know it was changed to Aluminum.  If true that would rule it out now for me.  I hated the stock trigger.  The Super Sear was a bit pricey though.