First time casting.......learned alot.

[redlined_b16a]

First time casting.
Bought a Lee 358-150-1r six cavity mold
Lee 4-20 melting pot.

Alot to learn but I learned alot
Using 99% lead
My bulldog was tuned to shoot 158 grain hard cast lead at 860 fps
The soft lead was moving much faster and rang my ears.......was not accurate.
Lowered hammer spring tension until accurate.

No chrono data since it was raining but 1" groups at 50 yards.
Any tips appreciated.

[EdinGa]

I try to keep my pot at least half full when casting to keep the temperature consistent. I also preheat my molds on an electric hot plate while my pot is warming up.

[triggertreat]

Those look really good!  I like at least three quarters full to start, especially with big slugs.  Those type of slugs are really easy to cast in comparison to others like hollow points.


You might want to do a YT search for a Lee PID controller.  There is a "how to" on how to build one for this melting pot, or can be used on other pots.  That's what I built for my Lee pot.  It keeps the pot at a constant temperature for you even when the level of lead drops lower.  Without it, the temps keep climbing as the level drops.  This can help with consistent casting results.

[Mr.P]

PID controller sounds complicated...  ok I am very curious about this.

Maybe I'm lucky or just picked the right kind of molds because i don't have any issues (that I'm aware of) that would require a computerized temperature controller-  are You not able to cast using the thermostat built into your pot?   What kind of problems have you been having when you don't use the pid controller?

If not, are you doing some kind of precision casting? where small differences in temperature cause some noticeable change in the quality of your pellets or slugs?   Is it possible that  differences from one batch to the next that are  not visible on the surface still somehow translate into problems with accuracy?

Maybe this is an issue with diablo pellets which I have never cast?

My slugs come out LOOKING exactly the the same... I've tried a few different temp settings.  One things to make sure your mold gets nice and hot - I set it on the back of the pot for 15 minutes while the lead melts.

[EdinGa]

I've been casting for years without a PID, but they do help with consistency. Just don't let your pot get low and watch your bullets. Too hot and they get frosty, too cold and you get wrinkles.

[Wayne52]

A pot and ladle is all I've ever used and have always used pure lead.  Slugs have always been a piece of cake it's the pellets that can get a little tricky.  I just posted a video in the "Vintage" gate shooting my cast 16.5g wad cutters from my Smith and Wesson 78G.  I've gotten to the point where I can tell if the mold is getting too warm by the way it acts when casting be it sprue plate, mold cavity or pins and I'll simply open it up and let it cool for a while and go back at it.


With these little wad cutters the temp of the sprue plate makes a lot of difference for a good pellet because the sprue plate hole is so small and with the ladle held directly to the mold I'm able to fill out the head of the pellet much better than what I could if I was using a bottom pour setup.

 

[triggertreat]

PID controller sounds complicated...  ok I am very curious about this.

Maybe I'm lucky or just picked the right kind of molds because i don't have any issues (that I'm aware of) that would require a computerized temperature controller-  are You not able to cast using the thermostat built into your pot?   What kind of problems have you been having when you don't use the pid controller?

If not, are you doing some kind of precision casting? where small differences in temperature cause some noticeable change in the quality of your pellets or slugs?   Is it possible that  differences from one batch to the next that are  not visible on the surface still somehow translate into problems with accuracy?

Maybe this is an issue with diablo pellets which I have never cast?

My slugs come out LOOKING exactly the the same... I've tried a few different temp settings.  One things to make sure your mold gets nice and hot - I set it on the back of the pot for 15 minutes while the lead melts.

There are a lot of folks casting without a PID controller.  If you are not having any issues and are happy with your cast and results then I would say you are good to go without the need for anything else.

 For me, I like casting at the same temperature each time so I can get closer to the same weights and head diameters each time I cast.  Varying pot temperatures do vary the weights and diameters when taking close measurements of them, plus you can start getting fins in the cast when letting the lead temperature run away as the lead level drops.  Of course, you can continually adjust the rheostat on the Lee pot to try and maintain a certain temperature, but it will be a constant fight with the pot to do this.  With the PID controller you can forget about having to adjust the rheostat.  It will keep the pot temp the same regardless of the lead level.

Just keep in mind the goal is to replace very well-made commercial projectiles and retain the same accuracy, at least that is my goal.  This is no easy task and casting results are typically far different than the highly refined manufacture's results.  Doing all you know how to do with your casting will get you closer to the commercial results.  I have learned that just looking at a pile of shinny cast projectiles that look pretty means absolutely nothing.  It is how they shoot consistently is what to look at.  It is easy to melt some lead and pour it in a mold, but there is more to it if you want consistent accuracy.  I am sure JSB could explain this a lot better.

Here is a link to the DIY PID controller I built.  They are easy to build.  You can also purchase a melting pot with a PID controller built-in like the Lyman.  I chose to build one instead because if my lee pot dies, I still have a working PID controller for another one which saves me some coins.  You can use a PID controller for all kinds of temperature control needs outside of casting, too.

1st attempt - Airguns & Guns Forum (gatewaytoairguns.org)