NEW Crosman 362

[Spooner]

Welcome to the madness Todd 😉. Yes, 13xx parts, discovery and maximus barrels... a few options out there that will work with the 362. The aftermarket folks had no interest in this gun for some reason so I wouldn't expect them to now. Shame too as there was so much hype when this one came out. All of the mods and upgrades came from folks here who did it themselves and there are a lot of threads discussing them. Have fun with it and welcome aboard! 🙂

[Stretch67]

I know Crosman wants to keep costs down, but dang...


My sear where the intermediate lever contacts.  Before...


And after...


In a few years I'm going to want that two hours back.

So once I got going, I continued with the rest of the trigger group.  Since the trigger, sear, and intermediate lever rub (slightly) on these internal ribs, I sanded them with 400, then 1000, then polished with red rouge on a Dremel buffing wheel...


I chemically stripped the paint from the rear wall of the trigger housing so I could add this...


JB Welded in place...


... to effectively double the thickness of the rear wall so I could drill and tap holes for the Two-Screw Mod.  Stainless steel washers of varying thicknesses on each side of the trigger, intermediate lever, and sear to reduce the side-to-side slop.


The trigger housing cover needed a little work in order to fit the new rear wall thickness... a bit of filing on the little spots at the top (shaded in silver Sharpie)...


I replaced the trigger return spring with a similar length of ballpoint-pen spring, and tweaked the sear spring until the sear is pushed up to its mechanical limit with no additional undue force.

The trigger wasn't all that bad before, but now it feels great.  Smooth and lighter, with no creep.  I'm very pleased.

[Stretch67]

I also cleaned the bore, then polished it with JB Bore Paste on a .22 caliber bore mop... fifty strokes.  Then cleaned the bore again and polished it with Flitz... fifty strokes.  I could feel the internal friction diminish as the bore polished out.  Then cleaned it again and touched up the crown.  Then cleaned it again to polish the freebore...

In my lathe, I turned a wood dowel a few thousandths smaller than the inner diameter of the freebore, then used a drill motor to turn the dowel in the freebore with a dab of Flitz.  After a couple minutes of easy going, I checked the transfer port by rubbing the freebore with a Q-Tip, and no burrs were present to snag the cotton (or a pellet).

Then cleaned it again.   

I also fitted a Crosman steel breech, after drilling and tapping holes for two additional grub screws.  Since I'm using a scope and no sights, I shortened the rear sight screw by about 3/16" to allow the hammer to move freely.

I was surprised by the sharp edges inside the pump tube along the pump lever slot.  If valve o-rings and pump cups are damaged during assembly, I can see why.  I ran a small file along the inner edges of the slot, being careful to keep the tip of the file away from the inner surface of the tube.  Then smoothed that out with some fine emery cloth.  Then cleaned the chips out of the tube with brake cleaner and a paper towel on a dowel.

I'll turn a double-screw pump lever pin out of brass, to replace the original roll pin, so I can take the pump apart without a hammer.

I already have a Buck Rail 1/2-20 moderator, and will turn a slip-on adapter (secured with grub screws) out of steel.

I got a cheap CVLife 4x 32mm scope.  it should do okay for my short-range backyard stuff.  I welded up a target stand that holds Ritz crackers and Necco wafers.  I hope to be able to regularly zap the Necco wafers.  They're pretty small.   

[avator]

Lots of good work on that 362. It will pay off. Do you play on doing anything about the clackety clack of the pumping?

[Van]

Lots of good work on that 362. It will pay off. Do you play on doing anything about the clackety clack of the pumping?

   I removed the magnet and metal plate that it strikes at the rear of the pump lever. Replaced them with black felt stick on pads and the clacking is a lot more muffled than metal on metal. It cams over and stays closed fine without them on both of my 362 guns and I like it so much better.  Also put felt on the contact points inside the forearm where they strike the tube. Starting to work on a brass trigger and two adjustment screws so that is a good picture above adding some metal for the screws.  I hope to remove the ridge at back and add a metal plate there to thread for screws.  That sear above sure is rough both of mine were smooth so that must have been a bad batch.

[Stretch67]

Mine came with a piece of felt glued over the magnet, so Crosman has done something to address that complaint.  I'll glue some more, or maybe the loop side of some adhesive-backed velcro, in other spots to muffle the clackiness.

As for triggers, it seems MAP has sold all of his Disco triggers, and has made known that he's not interested in having more made.  So that's out.

Alliance has some, but he still hasn't shipped an order of mine from January, so I'm wary of placing another order with him. 

I'm a big fan of Alchemy, and have lots of his high-quality stuff for my 1377.  He carries a 1377 / 1322 roller trigger, where the contact point is a polished steel roller riding on a polished steel pin.  Practically frictionless.  It's fantastic.   But he doesn't stock 362 triggers.

And the Baker brass trigger is currently out of stock.  I'm signed up for email alerts when they get more.

So it's the plastic Crosman trigger for now.  I sanded the one contact point with 1000-grit, then polished it with Flitz.  It's glossy, but probably has more friction on the intermediate lever than polished hardened steel or polished brass.  If I get real bored, I'll sand that contact point down some more, drill a shallow depression in it, and epoxy a small ball bearing it its place.

[Blowpipe Sam]

The magnet on my 362 fractured into four pieces as they are wont to do.  I cured that with a little epoxy.  I also epoxied a steel washer to the stock to contact the magnet.  I cut up a 1' thick piece of Ethafoam (a closed cell foam) and wedged pieces into the hollows of the forearm to damp the clatter of the pump arm.

[Back_Roads]

Mine came with a piece of felt glued over the magnet, so Crosman has done something to address that complaint.  I'll glue some more, or maybe the loop side of some adhesive-backed velcro, in other spots to muffle the clackiness.

As for triggers, it seems MAP has sold all of his Disco triggers, and has made known that he's not interested in having more made.  So that's out.

Alliance has some, but he still hasn't shipped an order of mine from January, so I'm wary of placing another order with him. 

I'm a big fan of Alchemy, and have lots of his high-quality stuff for my 1377.  He carries a 1377 / 1322 roller trigger, where the contact point is a polished steel roller riding on a polished steel pin.  Practically frictionless.  It's fantastic.   But he doesn't stock 362 triggers.

And the Baker brass trigger is currently out of stock.  I'm signed up for email alerts when they get more.

So it's the plastic Crosman trigger for now.  I sanded the one contact point with 1000-grit, then polished it with Flitz.  It's glossy, but probably has more friction on the intermediate lever than polished hardened steel or polished brass.  If I get real bored, I'll sand that contact point down some more, drill a shallow depression in it, and epoxy a small ball bearing it its place.

I have the TKO triggers in a few of my 362 builds 1 pound give or take. https://www.tko22.com/section7

[avator]

I have a couple of the first TKO triggers that he sent me for testing when he first began making them. A couple of the first ones broke into pieces. I think he upgraded the material in later versions.

[Spooner]

And the Baker brass trigger is currently out of stock.  I'm signed up for email alerts when they get more.

Todd, I have a brand new Baker brass trigger that I decided not to use in my first 362. I will never use it as I went Magnum on both my 362 and 367 builds. If you want it, you can have it for free. If interested, PM me with mailing details and I can have that out to you in a day or two. 

[Rick67]

And the Baker brass trigger is currently out of stock.  I'm signed up for email alerts when they get more.

Todd, I have a brand new Baker brass trigger that I decided not to use in my first 362. I will never use it as I went Magnum on both my 362 and 367 builds. If you want it, you can have it for free. If interested, PM me with mailing details and I can have that out to you in a day or two. 

2nd dibs but I’d buy it from you 

Gracias 👍

[Spooner]

2nd dibs but I’d buy it from you 

Gracias 👍

If Todd doesn't want it... it is yours Rick. 

[Stretch67]

Todd, I have a brand new Baker brass trigger that I decided not to use in my first 362. I will never use it as I went Magnum on both my 362 and 367 builds. If you want it, you can have it for free. If interested, PM me with mailing details and I can have that out to you in a day or two. 

Oh, wow.  I'd love to have it.  PM sent.   

[Rick67]

2nd dibs but I’d buy it from you 

Gracias 👍

If Todd doesn't want it... it is yours Rick. 

Thank you, sir 👍

Congrats to the nice part, Todd 👍

[splitbeing]

Tried recrowning and deburring the lead last night on the 362.  Put it back together today.  Shoots just as bad.  Possibly worse?  I put it down again.  Love the looks and the way it pumps.  I just got a [edited for content] lemon.

Shot the 100 at fifty feet with terminators. Now that's what I like to see (groupwise)!  I felt and feel better about pumpers again.  Thank you, 80 year old crosman. 

[Stretch67]

Alrightythen!

This afternoon I received the Baker trigger kit which was most generously and graciously provided by our own Spooner.

I sanded the Trigger's contact with the Intermediate Lever with 1000-grit, then polished it to a mirror sheen. 

I turned the "nub" for the Trigger Return Spring out of brass.  You ever forget to take photos during a project?  It happened to me.  But just imagine a short, brass allen screw with 6-32 threads and no hex socket.  Using the Crosman plastic trigger for a pattern, I drilled the Baker trigger in the proper place and tapped that hole 6-32, then installed the nub with Loc-Tite.

Ordinarily, I put stainless washers of varying thicknesses under and over the pins to take up the side-to-side slop in the Trigger, Sear, and Intermediate Lever.  But the Baker trigger fit the Trigger Housing better than the Crosman part (imagine that), so I didn't have to use any washers.

I had backed the Adjustment Screws out a bit to allow for the (slightly) different dimensions of the new trigger, and then re-adjusted them to the new trigger once everything was oiled and re-assembled.  Feels nice!

As it moved back and forth, the Safety selector was then a bit tighter on the trigger than I prefer, so I turned a few thou from the Safety's diameter, just where it contacts the Trigger, and made a smoother, more-rounded chamfer.  Much better now.  I guess the Baker trigger has just a bit more material in that area than the Crosman part.  (It was easier to drop the Safety and make the trim there than to remove the Trigger and file on it with trial-and-error.)

I didn't like the way my finger rubbed on the Safety selector while pulling the trigger, as the Safety always stuck out a bit too far in 'Fire'.  So while I had it out, I also removed about 100 thousandths from the length of that end of the Safety.  Now it's pretty much flush with the trigger guard, and makes no contact with my trigger finger at Go Time.

Many thanks, Robert.  Your old trigger went to an appreciative home.   

[Spooner]

That looks fantastic Todd! 
You are most welcome and glad it found a good project and home. 

[splitbeing]

Wow! Looks and sounds great!

[Stretch67]

I had already picked up a 3D-printed Buck Rail moderator, and was looking around at different adapters. Some with front sights, some without. I'd already ditched the sights on the C362 and went with a scope, so that helped narrow it down. But looking at the machined-metal adapters out there, I thought "I can make that". I've been running a lathe in various forms of education, side-jobs, and as a hobby for over forty years. So, yeah...


Click to enlarge

1010 or 1018 hot-rolled steel, 1-inch nominal diameter, drilled 7/16" (nominal) for the Crosman barrel, 1/2"-20 threads for the moderator, and a couple #8-32 brass-tip grub screws underneath to secure it to the barrel. Then polished with fine emery cloth and blued with Birchwood-Casey Perma-Blue and a Q-Tip. It turned out pretty well.


Click to enlarge

I've had a few Form 1 suppressors on various powder-burners for years, so I can appreciate the noise reduction even on an airgun, since I'm shooting in the garage or in the backyard with neighbors close by. The moderator makes a noticeable difference, so it will remain in place for the most part.

[avator]

Looks great Todd.