NEW Crosman 362

[Firewalker]

Worse case, if you don't feel you can return it it to post it as a basket case here in the classifieds and sell it to someone that wants it as a parts gun. 

[Spacebus]

I did not get a leak until I modified the valve, when I took it apart to check, and add a wrap of teflon tape, I did discover some trash in the valve it may have been created when I spun the poppet against the valve to get a tighter seal, but must of missed some residue from the process.
 Your best bet now would be take the valve out and open it clean it and the pump tube and retest for leaks.
It could possibly be a cracked poppet from shooting in cold conditions

Thanks, that's a great point, I've only shot this rifle in cold conditions since new, 200ish shots below freezing.

Is Crosman selling parts for this rifle yet? My piston has a nasty gouge right above the pump cup. That might not matter, but it makes me wonder if the pump tube is scored up.

Rather than sell it for parts I would rather slowly get the parts together to fix it, and might as well hot rod it at that point.

I'm on the Crosman support page on the email system and I don't even see the c362 on the list of guns/equipment! I'd rather not call since this is something that can be handled with an email.

[Spacebus]

Worse case, if you don't feel you can return it it to post it as a basket case here in the classifieds and sell it to someone that wants it as a parts gun. 

I would rather fix it and hot rod it before selling it for parts. The Baker breech is nice, but the supplied screw is maybe 2-3mm  too short, but I have a few plastic washers that allow me use the aluminum breech sans factory sight. Hopefully the hardware store has similar screws, because I can't get a good cheek weld using a red dot on the Baker breech.

[CraigH]

Is Crosman selling parts for this rifle yet? My piston has a nasty gouge right above the pump cup. That might not matter, but it makes me wonder if the pump tube is scored up.

There is no EVP as yet - still too new.   The valve is the same as 13xx guns so those parts are available.

The gouge, while not demonstrating excellent QC, would not be an issue if not to the cup retention groove.

[Spacebus]

Is Crosman selling parts for this rifle yet? My piston has a nasty gouge right above the pump cup. That might not matter, but it makes me wonder if the pump tube is scored up.

There is no EVP as yet - still too new.   The valve is the same as 13xx guns so those parts are available.

The gouge, while not demonstrating excellent QC, would not be an issue if not to the cup retention groove.

Not the best photo, but it should give an idea.

I saw someone posting that a 760(?) piston and valve assembly are almost the same length, but I can't remember who posted it or which thread. I think the Mountain Air flat top piston would work with the right length threaded rod.

Any advice on taking out the guts? I've never taken apart a pumper, just my SPA PCPs

[Tack Driver 10]

The valve is the same as the 13xx and the piston is close to the 2100 piston.

That gash on the piston tells me there was a bur in the tube and probably nicked the valve o-ring.

[Spacebus]

The valve is the same as the 13xx and the piston is close to the 2100 piston.

That gash on the piston tells me there was a bur in the tube and probably nicked the valve o-ring.

I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Something else worth noting, I almost always get a puff of air when I shoot, and have since new. Is this a TP alignment problem?

[Tack Driver 10]

The valve is the same as the 13xx and the piston is close to the 2100 piston.

That gash on the piston tells me there was a bur in the tube and probably nicked the valve o-ring.

I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Something else worth noting, I almost always get a puff of air when I shoot, and have since new. Is this a TP alignment problem?

Right, usually a TP or probe sealing issue.
Squirt a few drops of oil into the TP area and close the bolt.
Fire a pellet and the oil residue should show where the leak is.

[Spacebus]

The valve is the same as the 13xx and the piston is close to the 2100 piston.

That gash on the piston tells me there was a bur in the tube and probably nicked the valve o-ring.

I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Something else worth noting, I almost always get a puff of air when I shoot, and have since new. Is this a TP alignment problem?

Right, usually a TP or probe sealing issue.
Squirt a few drops of oil into the TP area and close the bolt.
Fire a pellet and oil should show where the leak is.

Is there any trick to this? My SPA guns have a seal above and below the TP, but this Crosman setup only has one. I have a "fancy" MAP TP with a new seal, and it was doing the same thing. I feel like the problem was even worse with the Baker Breech.

[Spacebus]

The valve is the same as the 13xx and the piston is close to the 2100 piston.

That gash on the piston tells me there was a bur in the tube and probably nicked the valve o-ring.

I guess I'll be taking it apart soon.

Something else worth noting, I almost always get a puff of air when I shoot, and have since new. Is this a TP alignment problem?

Right, usually a TP or probe sealing issue.
Squirt a few drops of oil into the TP area and close the bolt.
Fire a pellet and oil should show where the leak is.

Is there any trick to this? My SPA guns have a seal above and below the TP, but this Crosman setup only has one. I have a "fancy" MAP TP with a new seal, and it was doing the same thing. I feel like the problem was even worse with the Baker Breech.

Update!

When I first took the breech off of my rifle I paid close attention to how it was put together, especially the orientation of the TP. I put it back the same way with the exception of the Bake breech setup. Well, it seems like Crosman put my TP in upside down from the factory. The MAP transfer port and seal are installed now, and I am getting 10-ish more FPS than I was getting before, so an improvement. Still have to address the 35 FPS loss from sitting overnight, but it is not a priority. Today or tomorrow I'm thinking about going to the hardware store with my rifle to get the appropriate rear breech screw so I can use my OEM tombstone sight with the Baker Breech. I'm also thinking about a nice muzzle brake with integrated front sight.

With eight pumps I'm averaging 640 FPS with 14.3 CPHP (13 FPE), which is close to what I was getting before, a touch faster.

I accidentally went up to nine pumps a couple of times and hit 665 FPS (14 FPE), this is more in line with what other people are seeing, just a touch lower.

For whatever reason it seems like my c362 wants an extra pump to match velocities with what other people are seeing. It's like I'm shooting at high altitude, but my house is only 150' above sea level.

Unfortunately I don't have another chronograph, but I wonder if mine "reads low" or something. It clamps to the muzzle, so I assumed it would read higher compared to what others are seeing.

[CraigH]

Is Crosman selling parts for this rifle yet? My piston has a nasty gouge right above the pump cup. That might not matter, but it makes me wonder if the pump tube is scored up.

There is no EVP as yet - still too new.   The valve is the same as 13xx guns so those parts are available.

The gouge, while not demonstrating excellent QC, would not be an issue if not to the cup retention groove.

Not the best photo, but it should give an idea.

I saw someone posting that a 760(?) piston and valve assembly are almost the same length, but I can't remember who posted it or which thread. I think the Mountain Air flat top piston would work with the right length threaded rod.

Any advice on taking out the guts? I've never taken apart a pumper, just my SPA PCPs

That (mostly) transverse gash was not done by a burr in the tube.   Unless the piston was turned while inserting into the tube.

The only issue on disassembly is removing the pin at the front.   Really should be done with a punch that has a centering nub.    It can be done with a standard punch of correct size with appropriate care.

[Keepingitsimple]

With eight pumps I'm averaging 640 FPS with 14.3 CPHP (13 FPE), which is close to what I was getting before, a touch faster.

I accidentally went up to nine pumps a couple of times and hit 665 FPS (14 FPE), this is more in line with what other people are seeing, just a touch lower.

For whatever reason it seems like my c362 wants an extra pump to match velocities with what other people are seeing. It's like I'm shooting at high altitude, but my house is only 150' above sea level.

Unfortunately I don't have another chronograph, but I wonder if mine "reads low" or something. It clamps to the muzzle, so I assumed it would read higher compared to what others are seeing.

Is this the chronograph you use?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869754554.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.42684a1clpHmEP&algo_pvid=e969bd4a-5400-4290-9bd1-6fd1157c4121&algo_expid=e969bd4a-5400-4290-9bd1-6fd1157c4121-0&btsid=0bb0623916099909816246692e040b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Glad your velocity is back. Pump it 10 times and see what fps you get. See if yours can break 700 fps.

[Robert 5mm]

When I first took the breech off of my rifle I paid close attention to how it was put together, especially the orientation of the TP.

EVP of 1322 has long side up

[Spacebus]

Is Crosman selling parts for this rifle yet? My piston has a nasty gouge right above the pump cup. That might not matter, but it makes me wonder if the pump tube is scored up.

There is no EVP as yet - still too new.   The valve is the same as 13xx guns so those parts are available.

The gouge, while not demonstrating excellent QC, would not be an issue if not to the cup retention groove.

Not the best photo, but it should give an idea.

I saw someone posting that a 760(?) piston and valve assembly are almost the same length, but I can't remember who posted it or which thread. I think the Mountain Air flat top piston would work with the right length threaded rod.

Any advice on taking out the guts? I've never taken apart a pumper, just my SPA PCPs

That (mostly) transverse gash was not done by a burr in the tube.   Unless the piston was turned while inserting into the tube.

The only issue on disassembly is removing the pin at the front.   Really should be done with a punch that has a centering nub.    It can be done with a standard punch of correct size with appropriate care.

Can you link to an appropriate punch? I don't own any and might as well get the right tool for the job. Can you just push the valve out from the back once the piston is out, like a PCP?

[Spacebus]

When I first took the breech off of my rifle I paid close attention to how it was put together, especially the orientation of the TP.

EVP of 1322 has long side up

Thanks, I did figure it out. My rifle came with the TP long side down, and has had a puff of air coming out the whole time I've owned the rifle.

[Robert 5mm]

I think the valve comes out just like the 1322 EVP shows - out the front.

[bender ville]

just a note about that chrony you are useing i have the same one and yes mine reads 10 to 30 fps lower then other ones no big deal as long as you know it .especialy for the price of them 30 bucks to your house i have run 500 rds through mine and still works.

[Spacebus]

just a note about that chrony you are useing i have the same one and yes mine reads 10 to 30 fps lower then other ones no big deal as long as you know it .especialy for the price of them 30 bucks to your house i have run 500 rds through mine and still works.

Yeah, that's the one. I had to solder the batter back onto the board after using it with my .45 Challenger. The muzzle blast knocked the little panel off the top and sent the battery for a ride. Good to know, because +30 FPS would bring speeds to exactly where I want to be at four and eight pumps.

I'll probably deal with the very slow leak with an upgraded valve when there's an off the shelf flat top piston to match. I'm quite pleased with the Baker breech setup now that I'm no longer getting a "back puffs" when shooting. The included stainless probe and handle have more positive engagement and don't feel like a toy. The factory handle is just too short. Since the Baker breech didn't come with a plug for the back I sprung for an Alchemy Air stainless plug.

[bender ville]

also dj  about that chrony we are useing i silconed a small block of wood between the lite sensors  because i foolishly blew the second sensor off my first one and by the way my first one was right on the money fps wise till i broke it that was compered to my buddys 200 dol one .any ways the block of wood does not affect the readings and keeps the back sensor from being blown off

[CraigH]

Can you link to an appropriate punch? I don't own any and might as well get the right tool for the job. Can you just push the valve out from the back once the piston is out, like a PCP?

Yes - push out the front.

Here are sets by Wheeler (Not probably what you want):

https://www.wheelertools.com/gunsmithing-tools/hammer-and-punch/

Try searching for "roll pin punch".   Cheaper sets on amazon.    (Cannot recall the size at the moment - will look later)