NEW Crosman 362

[Rick67]

Even with the Baker trigger, I want to bring the blade back a little and reduce the pull weight to about 1 pound. I would like about 1mm of take up, a sharp break and 2mm of overtravel.

Thanks to you all for showing me the positions of the screws and the adjustments you can get with them. I hope to work on this some next week. 

The MAP trigger blade is just too far.

Mine, whole MAP trigger assembly, works fine 'cuz it's in a thumbhole stock.

I actually prefer straight blades.

[Firewalker]

Even with the Baker trigger, I want to bring the blade back a little and reduce the pull weight to about 1 pound. I would like about 1mm of take up, a sharp break and 2mm of overtravel.

Thanks to you all for showing me the positions of the screws and the adjustments you can get with them. I hope to work on this some next week. 

The MAP trigger blade is just too far.

Mine, whole MAP trigger assembly, works fine 'cuz it's in a thumbhole stock.

I actually prefer straight blades.

For benchrest shooting, I like a button pad, so you can feel the finger pad pressure.  Here are some Anchutz trigger pad ideas, very tactile.

[MileHighAirgunner]

I don’t know that I like the MAP trigger all that much either. I tried the Baker brass trigger in my Disco and I didn’t care for it at all so I sold it and got a Gen I Marauder trigger. That’s the only way to go IMO.

💡

I remembered I had this for another project I’ve yet to start. I probably will need to make a shim and I’ll need to get a screw for the trigger guard and tap the hole. But before I do that I need to decide if I can live with the gap around the stock and trigger group…
Hmmm….

[CraigH]

I don’t know that I like the MAP trigger all that much either. I tried the Baker brass trigger in my Disco and I didn’t care for it at all so I sold it and got a Gen I Marauder trigger. That’s the only way to go IMO.

💡

I remembered I had this for another project I’ve yet to start. I probably will need to make a shim and I’ll need to get a screw for the trigger guard and tap the hole. But before I do that I need to decide if I can live with the gap around the stock and trigger group…
Hmmm….

Have the Challenger guard on my Maximus - not the most attractive, but functional.

In all likelihood a 0.030 shim will be needed - the issue, of course, being M-Rod wall at 0.095" and all the others including the 362 at 0.065" wall.   But a question - Now we are down two tube sizes (.i.e., diameters) from 1.25" to 0.875" and now to 0.75"   Any rocking or instability of the trigger frame?

[Rick67]

I don’t know that I like the MAP trigger all that much either. I tried the Baker brass trigger in my Disco and I didn’t care for it at all so I sold it and got a Gen I Marauder trigger. That’s the only way to go IMO.

💡

I remembered I had this for another project I’ve yet to start. I probably will need to make a shim and I’ll need to get a screw for the trigger guard and tap the hole. But before I do that I need to decide if I can live with the gap around the stock and trigger group…
Hmmm….

Have the Challenger guard on my Maximus - not the most attractive, but functional.

In all likelihood a 0.030 shim will be needed - the issue, of course, being M-Rod wall at 0.095" and all the others including the 362 at 0.065" wall.   But a question - Now we are down two tube sizes (.i.e., diameters) from 1.25" to 0.875" and now to 0.75"   Any rocking or instability of the trigger frame?

Check out this thread re optional trigger guard:



https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=46273.0#msg434427

[MileHighAirgunner]

Went a robbed the Gen I Marauder trigger off my .22 Fortitude. I got this one from DiscosRUs so it came with the metal shim. It mounts up just fine and it’s solid. No rocking. I might run with this or a bit. Honestly I think no matter what trigger is on the 362 it won’t be 100% right for me. I have to remember That this is a youth rifle and the grip is a little small and too thin for my hand.
I know the Challenger trigger guard isn’t the most attractive but it’s functional. I’ve heard the Trail trigger guard is an alternative. Next time I order something from Crosman I might just buy one to see.

[Rick67]

I personally think it looks better w/o the L trigger guard.

[Rick67]

I dunno if Austin Revisions makes his own trigger guards as he does filler caps:



https://www.airgunrevisions.com/

[Keepingitsimple]

I dunno if Austin Revisions makes his own trigger guards as he does filler caps:



https://www.airgunrevisions.com/

I wanted to thank you, Rick for that tip you gave me the other day about the right way to hold the 362 when loading a pellet. You said to hold it up to keep it from jamming and you were right as rain. The pellets snap right in that way.

I was a little confused at first because to me holding something up is to raise it by a few degrees. Rather than being straight up: aka 90 degree's.

90 degree's is the ticket for loading the 362.

[Wayne52]

Jacob since polishing the contact points in my trigger mecha it's much nicer with a very predictable break in the trigger now.  I used a small fine hone stone on it.

[Keepingitsimple]

Jacob since polishing the contact points in my trigger mecha it's much nicer with a very predictable break in the trigger now.  I used a small fine hone stone on it.

I did that too. I used a diamond hone on the contact points and smoothed the trigger parts with an arkansas stone. Then I lubed the metal parts. I'd wanted to use some lithium grease on the trigger and return spring, but I couldn't find it. There's no more gritty feeling to the trigger though.

[TerryM]

I had a Mac1 scope base on hand, didn't bother with a steel breech.  Took the muffler off my Disco, which hasn't been shot in some time.  Didn't do anything else to it.  I reckon I've got close to 500 rounds through it.  The trigger has gotten the roughness worked out of it and seems easier to use now.  Most accurate pellet is still JSB 14.3.  I mostly shoot with 4 or 5 pumps.  I mounted the scope as shown to keep the breech unobstructed, works great.  I like this gun a lot.

[EdinGa]

I just swapped the trigger return spring with one from a ball point pen and it made a huge difference.

[K.O.]

While I don't disagree, it sure would be cool if a .25 cal barrel for lego guns got added to the Crosman parts bin...

AGREE!

well a .20 would be nice also..

[avator]

Yep, I would go for a .20.

[Spacebus]

My c362 is barely cracking 600 FPS at eight pumps with Crosman Premier 14.3 pellets. Any suggestions? At this point I'm ready to toss it in a closet 

I was going to try and return it, but I foolishly put the Baker aluminum breech on the gun and now have marks from the set screws, so now I doubt they will take it back. Plus some of the bluing on the barrel came off while it was sitting in my attic for a few weeks.

Last night I pumped it up to eight pumps and just a few minutes ago fired the shot. I was down to about 560 FPS, on eight pumps. Sounds like it has a leak going by what others have said.

[Wayne52]

Put 2 pumps in it, let it sit overnight and see if it's still got pressure.

[Spacebus]

Put 2 pumps in it, let it sit overnight and see if it's still got pressure.

Wayne, I literally pumped it up last night and fired this morning, the velocity was down about 40 FPS.

[Back_Roads]

 I did not get a leak until I modified the valve, when I took it apart to check, and add a wrap of teflon tape, I did discover some trash in the valve it may have been created when I spun the poppet against the valve to get a tighter seal, but must of missed some residue from the process.
 Your best bet now would be take the valve out and open it clean it and the pump tube and retest for leaks.
It could possibly be a cracked poppet from shooting in cold conditions

[CraigH]

Sounds like it has a leak going by what others have said.

Valve poppet or check valve  --  both inside the valve.