Hatsan 135 .30 grinding

[GumpIsrael]

Well, was shooting my .30 carnivore yesterday, and after ten shots she started making a grinding, crunchy noise and became much tougher to cock. I need to build a new spring compressor before I open her up, but I suspect it’s something to do with the cocking arm or linkage.

Anyone experience something similar yet?

I’ll be posting updates as I go with this, but I don’t expect to be done with this anytime soon, just starting a metal art commission, so that’ll be taking up a good amount of time.

[Leaded]

I had some similar issues with my 150. For me it was just that the piston/receiver was bone dry, no grease. Greased it up and it cocked like new. If you don’t want to take it apart you can get some grease in that space with something thin like a water bottle or soda can. Put some grease on a thin strip of the bottle or can and slide it in the slot between the piston and receiver wall. Do this multiple times. It worked for me after my first regreasing wore off (about 15,000 shots). You do need to give it a few cocks and shots to fully move the grease around in there but it worked for me.

[GumpIsrael]

Thanks Mike! I’ll try that! If I end up pulling her all the way apart, she’s definitely getting deburred and polished and rel-lubed with Ultimox 226. This may turn out to be a Fix’n’tune thread 

[Septicdeath]

I had some similar issues with my 150. For me it was just that the piston/receiver was bone dry, no grease. Greased it up and it cocked like new. If you don’t want to take it apart you can get some grease in that space with something thin like a water bottle or soda can. Put some grease on a thin strip of the bottle or can and slide it in the slot between the piston and receiver wall. Do this multiple times. It worked for me after my first regreasing wore off (about 15,000 shots). You do need to give it a few cocks and shots to fully move the grease around in there but it worked for me.

A drop of  chamber oil after that in the port wouldn't hurt either.
If you do a rebuild and it's a Springer convert it to gas.

[GumpIsrael]

I have some Crosman silicone chamber oil, that should be good right?

It’s already a Vortex gun, so it’s a gas piston, so that makes it bearable for me to shoot. I like the trigger and and the weight, but I am not a fan of springers.

[mikeyb]

I have some Crosman silicone chamber oil, that should be good right?

It’s already a Vortex gun, so it’s a gas piston, so that makes it bearable for me to shoot. I like the trigger and and the weight, but I am not a fan of springers.

I would NOT put ANYTHING in the transfer port... period. But that's me.

I WOULD try a couple drops of synthetic oil (not silicone) on the SIDES of the uncocked & cocked piston through the cocking slot. In my experience VERY LITTLE or NONE of this migrates past a GOOD piston seal into the high pressure area to diesel or detonate.

I would also take a very close look at the cocking slot that is cut in the side of the piston. I had one Hatsan Mod85 (cheap refurb) where the cocking shoe started GALLING the piston cocking slot. Probably why it was a factory return (besides the shredded piston seal) in the first place. Returning the barrel to lockup became HARDER than the cocking stroke! I had to grind, clean, polish, and moly lube the shoe and slot to stop the galling. Suggest you put some good moly paste in the piston cocking slot to prevent galling.

After a full deburr, clean, new piston seal, and relube, that Mod85 rifle (coil spring) is now a delight to shoot.

Don't keep us in suspense!

[GumpIsrael]

Taking note!
That’s what feels like is going on and where I expect to find the problem. I have a good supply of moly paste.

I’ll try and get to it soon. Kendra is using the work table and dremel currently to make Christmas presents, so it’ll be a second before I can get in there. (She’s making metal art and I know better to stand in the way of a woman on a mission )