Quote from: nervoustrigger on July 07, 2021, 04:04:20 PMNo need to depressurize before removing the trigger components. Nothing associated with them is seeing any high pressure. Everything pressurized is part of the air tube assembly. The air tube is a modular assembly that also houses the valve. If you want, you can completely remove it and set it aside while you do your work. Personally I wouldn’t (I didn’t) but feel free to do so if it aids your confidence.Jason is absolutely correct. Just make sure the gun is not loaded before you start the work.I doubt you will see any significant gains from a lube only. This is due to some of the problem is with the sear engagement, which is not accessible without disassembly. The trigger can be GREATLY improved with a polish and lube. (I have done several of them).They generally come from the factory with a very gritty 4.5 to 5lb "dry" pull.To properly do the work, you need to remove 3 pins. These are,The trigger pivot pin, The pin just forward of the trigger,And the sear pivot pin.Use a magnifying glass to determine which side of the pins are splines. Drive out th pins from the non-splined side... (meaning, do not drive the splines through the trigger group).Be careful to NOT OVER STRETCH the trigger or sear springs, as you remove the springs from the trigger blade and sear.Next, remove the cocking pin in the bottom of the hammer that is held in place with a single hex screw at the rear of the hammer. (Take note of its orientation before removal).Now polish the metal to metal surfaces (in the direction of motion). I like to go to a 2000 grit and then buff to shine.Do Not round off any edges. And remove any burrs or "record grooves" in the surfaces.Polish the cocking pin working surfaces in the same manner.Sometimes the cocking pins have had a tendency to come loose, due to the hex screw is only holding them on the flat surface.You should see a witness mark on the flat surface from the hex screw.I eliminate the slipping problem by using a dremmel with a round tip bit, and creating a "divot" at the witness mark. This creates a "shallow" for the hex screw to nest in.Put SMALL DAB of moly on the working surfaces of the pin and a SMALL DAD or BLUE loctite on the upper end of the pin upon installation . Tighten the hew screw while feeling it nest into the shallow you created with the dremmel.Lube the trigger components working surfaces with a small dab of moly and reassemble.Again, being careful to NOT OVER STRETCH the springs.The results should be a VERY CLEAN and Crisp, Very predictable break at approx 2 to 2.5 lbs. Hope this helps.
No need to depressurize before removing the trigger components. Nothing associated with them is seeing any high pressure. Everything pressurized is part of the air tube assembly. The air tube is a modular assembly that also houses the valve. If you want, you can completely remove it and set it aside while you do your work. Personally I wouldn’t (I didn’t) but feel free to do so if it aids your confidence.
These DAR rifles appear very similar to the Benjamin Fortitude PCP that I have been considering. Are there any particular reasons to go with the DAR over the Benjamin?
Had DAR had a .30 in the line up? May not have tried the AEA.But glad I did try the AEA. Still have my eye on DAR for somethings I heard rumors about.
Quick question for DAR past or present owners.Where was your regulator set physically, not pressure but did you have threads showing or was the tip recessed? How many turns in was yours set at?I ask this because my granddaughter took my notebook home with her and her mom and dad cant find it so all my DAR notes look to be lost. Thanks for your help in advance!
Quote from: Firewalker on July 08, 2021, 04:52:17 PMQuick question for DAR past or present owners.Where was your regulator set physically, not pressure but did you have threads showing or was the tip recessed? How many turns in was yours set at?I ask this because my granddaughter took my notebook home with her and her mom and dad cant find it so all my DAR notes look to be lost. Thanks for your help in advance! May not help much mine has been flwless since day 1, page 4 in this thread I ordered mine, page 6 I got mine and here is the numbers I got out of the box, https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179804.msg156049944#msg156049944 and for my use it was perfect OTB Sorry for not having to mess with mine
I was one of the early ones to order my Dar Gen 2, it's got a defective part they promised to send me but they never did, that's been months ago Someone gave me the phone number to get hold of them way back but can't find the number.
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