DAR Gen II is now available

[RDB]

Mine wouldn't.  And suspect most dont. But if turned in too far, the gun would just not cock. Still had second stage creep.

Reference the pic.

The sear catch pin in the hammer was loose on mine making it worse.  Turning it upside down let the pin seat deeper in the hammer, i then tightened it up.  But still had second stage creep.  I pulled the pin from the gun and took 1/2 mm off of the end where it catches the sear. I am now able to adjust the trigger screw in far enough where the gun will actually discharge.  And actually eliminate the second stage creep.

In all reality,  i probably could have taken it off the other end of the pin so it would seat deaper in the hammer. Essentially accomplishing the same effect.

I still have plenty of sear engagement,  but i can now adjust it to the edge giving me a less creepy crisper break.

The allen in the back of the hammer holds the pin.

[Nvreloader]

Sub

By any chance did you get the dimensions of the hammer and it's weight?

Tia,
Don

[subscriber]

Thanks Rod,

Will check the screw in the hammer for tightness.

[subscriber]

Sorry Don,

I did not take it apart far enough to measure that.

[RDB]

Sorry Don, didn't pull it. But seems fairly light.

I worked on mine today. I wanted a tune for 14 grain pellets at 900 fps for as many shots as i could get.

I opened up the barrel port to 3/16. Pulled the valve and matched it as close as i could to the port in the action. Ended up being 1/4.  Turned the reg down to 100 bar.  Was able to get 50 shots averaging 904. Last few shots run up to 912 before dropping back off to 894 on the last shot. A little hammer bounce though....with a shorter and softer spring i had cut down from a 1911 recoil spring.

Made a ssg. It worked. But its very tight in there and not much room to work with. Managed 60 shots on tr he reg at 900!

Im going to scrap the ssg idea though. I think i can get darn neer as good results with a stiff 1 1/2 spring. Just have to search and sorce one.

[Nvreloader]

Guys

Anyone have any experience at removing/stalling a bbl/chamber "O" ring?

The Dar's have one, I found out..............

I want to get it out, so I can order some GOOD "O" rings, as I am replacing all of them, before going any further.
And I'll give the chamber lip/lead a good looking over and polish if needed.

Rod
Are you using a flat wire recoil spring?

Tia,
Don

[subscriber]

Was able to get 50 shots averaging 904.

I think i can get darn neer as good results with a stiff 1 1/2 spring. Just have to search and sorce one.

I am impressed by that shotcount!

This spring may be exactly what you are looking for.  I bought these springs with the intent to cut them, so I could have a wide range of hammer energy on the limited adjustment of the hammer spring endcap:  https://www.mcmaster.com/9434K121/


Spring Type   Compression
System of Measurement   Inch
Length   1.5"
OD   0.48"
ID   0.354"
Wire   
Diameter   0.063"
Compressed Length @ Maximum Load   0.88"
Maximum Load   22.94 lbs.
Rate   37 lbs./in.

I cut two of them to 1.3", with a longer and shorter closed endcoils.  Have not shot the gun yet, but cocking force at the minimum suggests I am going to see 14 FPE and up.  I want to be able to go as low as 8 FPE to match and R7 for short range plinking.



I have a 1.25" long spring that already covers 2 to 16 FPE: https://www.mcmaster.com/9657K689/ 

Spring Type   Compression
System of Measurement   Inch
Length   1.25"
OD   0.42"
ID   0.326"
Wire   
Diameter   0.047"
Compressed Length @ Maximum Load   0.68"
Maximum Load   11.4 lbs.
Rate   20 lbs./in.

[RDB]

Guys

Anyone have any experience at removing/stalling a bbl/chamber "O" ring?

The Dar's have one, I found out..............

I want to get it out, so I can order some GOOD "O" rings, as I am replacing all of them, before going any further.
And I'll give the chamber lip/lead a good looking over and polish if needed.

Rod
Are you using a flat wire recoil spring?

Tia,
Don

Use a sewing needle to get it out. It will pierce it enough to lift it out but not destroy it. To replace it, run a cleaning jag and patch from the muzzle up to the groove. It will help it not fall below the groove and you can work it in.

I have some standard oring sizes that will work on the tube and reg parts. I'll post them up tomorrow.

Not flat wire. Just an 18.5 lb wilson. Which was a little softer than stock. How high does the flat wire go? 22?

[RDB]

Was able to get 50 shots averaging 904.

I think i can get darn neer as good results with a stiff 1 1/2 spring. Just have to search and sorce one.

I am impressed by that shotcount!

This spring may be exactly what you are looking for.  I bought these springs with the intent to cut them, so I could have a wide range of hammer energy on the limited adjustment of the hammer spring endcap:  https://www.mcmaster.com/9434K121/


Spring Type   Compression
System of Measurement   Inch
Length   1.5"
OD   0.48"
ID   0.354"
Wire   
Diameter   0.063"
Compressed Length @ Maximum Load   0.88"
Maximum Load   22.94 lbs.
Rate   37 lbs./in.

I cut two of them to 1.3", with a longer and shorter closed endcoils.  Have not shot the gun yet, but cocking force at the minimum suggests I am going to see 14 FPE and up.  I want to be able to go as low as 8 FPE to match and R7 for short range plinking.



I have a 1.25" long spring that already covers 2 to 16 FPE: https://www.mcmaster.com/9657K689/ 

Spring Type   Compression
System of Measurement   Inch
Length   1.25"
OD   0.42"
ID   0.326"
Wire   
Diameter   0.047"
Compressed Length @ Maximum Load   0.68"
Maximum Load   11.4 lbs.
Rate   20 lbs./in.

Lol. Just ordered  the 1.5 along with a .50 OD before reading your post.

[subscriber]

Depending on caliber, you may be able to get O-ring out with a dental pick.  You may want to round over sharp points or edges.  You could make such a hook from wire:

www.amazon.com/Professional-Dental-Tarter-Scraper-Stainless/dp/B00KCXT7RC/




Or the plastic equivalent:

[subscriber]

Lol. Just ordered  the 1.5 along with a .50 OD before reading your post.

1/2" probably won't fit in the spring seat in the hammer.  The hammer ID appears to be less than 12.7 mm... That means a 1/2" spring might drag on the plastic hammer liner.  And sit skew... 

[RDB]

Lol. Just ordered  the 1.5 along with a .50 OD before reading your post.

1/2" probably won't fit in the spring seat in the hammer.  The hammer ID appears to be less than 12.7 mm... That means a 1/2" spring might drag on the plastic hammer liner.  And sit skew...

My hammer sleeve measures .59 and hammer pocket .49.
Figured i could grind the od of the spring down where it enters the hammer .001 if i had too.

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Guys,

Rod
Those flat wire springs go up to 25 #'s and I think I seen some into the low 30# range.
They come in several lengths, > 5", 4", 3-1/2" plus all the different pistols like the Clock and Beretta etc.

I use quite a few of them, and for what it's worth, use the LONGEST length possible,
figure out the max length and then compress a full length spring to see if it will fit into the space needed,
a full length flat wire spring 5+" long goes coil bound at 1.030", a round coil spring will not make the grade..

If it won't fit then cut a couple coils and try again etc.
I have a 18# spring that I'll be using to start off with on my 177 DAR,

You can check out the flat wire springs here,
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=flat+wire+springs&_sacat=73944

HTH's,
Don

[subscriber]

My hammer sleeve measures .59 and hammer pocket .49.
Figured i could grind the od of the spring down where it enters the hammer .001 if i had too.

Delta of 0.01", or only .005" radially.  That does not sound so bad.  As long as you are aware of it. 

[subscriber]

Don,

Not to dissuade you from experimenting with flat springs, but the shortest spring has the least energy in it when the hammer is at rest.  That is typically better to reduce hammer bounce.

If you want the maximum hammer strike energy with the lowest peak cocking force, then a longer, softer spring "wins".   Here a flat spring will allow more coils, without going into coil bind.  Perhaps that is what you are after.

By the way; an "18 lb" recoil spring for a 1911 means an 18 lb force, when the slide is drawn all the way back.  In other words, at minimum functional height (short of coil bind).  This is not to be confused with spring rate, measured in lb/inch.

[RDB]

Here's some oring sizes that have worked for me. Have had the reg out numerous times and all still seal.

Black reg spacer /sleave that fit the tube. Should work at either end of the tube on the valve housing and fill cap. I did have to break the sharp edge in the tube just past the threads. Used 220 grit and smoothed the sharp edge. Size 210

Reg body size 112.

Reg spool.... the part the belleville washers go over. The small one at the tip is a 006. The bottom part of the spool...the bigger end. I didn't have one on hand that fit.

Brass seat on top of the reg. The screw you use to adjust the pressure. Size 008.

These are sizes that worked for me on my rifle. More than likely stock were metric.

[RDB]

Well, pulled the trigger back apart and polished all contact points. Its a very acceptable trigger now. Nice and crisp and if i had to guess, about a pound and a half.

Did a quick tune to see what it would do with something heavier than the 14's. Bumped the reg to 125 bar and was able to run the 18 jsb at 890 for 35 shots before falling off the reg. Could have definitely went higher. 

Going to wait until my springs arrive before messing with the tune any more. My goal will be 50 shots at 900 with 16 grain jsb's.

All in all I think its a fine rifle for the money.

[HunterWhite]

Guys

Anyone have any experience at removing/stalling a bbl/chamber "O" ring?

The Dar's have one, I found out..............

I want to get it out, so I can order some GOOD "O" rings, as I am replacing all of them, before going any further.
And I'll give the chamber lip/lead a good looking over and polish if needed.

Rod
Are you using a flat wire recoil spring?

Tia,
Don

One person on this forum has suggested firing the rifle with the bolt partially open to eject the oring.
I haven't tried it but it does sound like fun.

[nervoustrigger]

Firing it with the bolt open apparently transports the O-ring to another dimension.  I did it in my workroom and that O-ring hasn’t surfaced in 18 months

[subscriber]

One person on this forum has suggested firing the rifle with the bolt partially open to eject the oring.
I haven't tried it but it does sound like fun.

Use one person's whoops and turn it into a method.  Like unfixed software bugs being termed "features"

One may want to cushion the charging handle so it does not fly open and mangle something - although it may not even reach the end of its travel: 

I wondered about the general lack of disconnectors for out of battery discharge on PCPs.  Came to the conclusion that the bolt stroke while in the breech end of the barrel was too short to pick enough speed to cause real damage or harm.  Probably the worst aspect would be hearing damage; or the potential for the O-ring to hit you in the eye.  The bolt itself is unlikely to escape the mechanism.