Alcohol flush Blue Streak

[RodJ]

Previously I posted about an eBay purchase that I got knowing it would not hold air, but it also turned out to have some additional issues.  Anyway, I read about the alcohol flush and was skeptical but tried it last night.  Two methods, soak overnight or pour some in, pump, fire, etc.  I tried the pour, pump, fire, repeat method.

Lots of 70% isopropyl alcohol run through the little hole and on the back side of the pump cup.  Pump two times, shoot, more alcohol repeat a zillion times.  Nothing.

Question I had was how many dang times do I try this before I give up.  Then I just gave up.  Didn’t bother to shoot it clear of alcohol. Didn’t put any lube in.  Left it in a wood vise on my bench and decided I would have to pay the cost of the reseal kit and tool.  Ordered from Baker this afternoon.

THEN! A few seconds after placing my order, I get up and go to the garage. Pick up the little rifle, cock it,and give it a couple pumps.  Fire. Weird. It felt slightly different pumping it and the muzzle had some little blast.  Cock it, fire with no pumps. Definitely different... long story ends here: the overnight soak did something, and now it holds air.  Wish I had some pellets to see what it’s pushing, but those are on the way as well.  In any event, I’m going to do the reseal, as the little rifle deserves it for coming back to life.

So, what I’m adding here is that the alcohol flush can take a while, worth trying both, and sitting overnight soaking can make the difference.  Hope this helps someone if you’re wondering how much time to give this method. 

Onward, through the fog!

[Van]

   Once you get the rifle disassembled I like to flush both ends of the tube with some 90% alcohol until it comes clean as possible. Pay attention to the bottom end of the pump tube where a lot of crud builds up, also the inside of the back end where the valve inlet and exhaust seals seat.  It sometimes takes several flushes to get everything completely free of the crud in an older gun and helps to get a good reseal job.

[RodJ]

Thanks for that. I took the pump arm off and found something I side that looked like hairs off the Creature from the Black Lagoon   8-/

[Back_Roads]

 Try working some oil into the system, and fire it a few more times, just to clear out the 70% alcohol, there is 30 % water in the mix you may want to remove soon, and who knows it might just perk right up till you get to the rebuild.

[RodJ]

I would but I won’t have pellets till the seal kit comes!  They said two day shipping so maybe Saturday??

When it’s back together I’m going to do a shootout:  392PA, 397PA, 342 Racine, 312, and this CB9 each vs.... Daisy Red Ryder!  Pretty sure NO ONE THUS FAR has put all these rifles head to head.

[Stinger177]

I've been wondering about this alcohol flush thing since I first read about 3 or so years ago.

Could someone please describe the procedure(s)? Apparently now there are more than one.


Also - WHERE are you purchasing your isopropyl alcohol? Every one of our stores here including Walgreens, etc. has had empty shelves on that item.

 

[RodJ]

Here’s the pump and repeat method.  Search google for alcohol flush Sheridan and others will come up. Some people don’t use a space “alcoholflush”

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=141692.0;topicseen

The other method is a teaspoon or so into the pump tube and set the rifle muzzle up. The alcohol leaks past the pump cup to the valve overnight. I kind of did a hybrid.

I found the isopropyl in our medicine cabinet. 

[Stinger177]

Thank you Rod!

 

[RodJ]

Thank you Rod!

 

Happy to help anyone here. I’m learning a lot.  Btw, probably makes sense to first pull the pump arm and clean what you can of the pump tube.  That way less chance of crud getting into the valve again (if that’s what was causing the problem).  Hoosier daddy, I think said that his seals were deteriorating so this didn’t work for long.  I’m thinking this might be a PM very 1000 rounds or so.  Except the pump arm R and R.  That risks the pins getting sloppy. Just inject (eye dropper) some in the air hole and “shake”! Let the dissolved crud come out the hole or through the valve.

But that’s just CONJECTURE.  I COULD BE DEAD WRONG.

Maybe check yourself into to the ER or make a doc appointment and swipe a little isopropyl.

[TooJung2Die]

It doesn't have to be isopropyl alcohol. Any alcohol you have handy will work, the stronger the better. I prefer 90% denatured ethyl alcohol from the hardware store. Just don't use whiskey as someone here once tried! It's a waste of good liquor.

The theory is if the seals are still in good shape and the problem is dirt and dried up lubricant then the alcohol will dissolve the crud. Repeated pumping and firing will flush the alcohol and crud through the valve and out the barrel. An overnight soak works on really tough crud. When it holds air and the black crud stops coming out get some oil in there.

If it works ... Great! You save a lot of time and money. If it doesn't work the seals are shot and you get to learn how to do a seal job. Win-win!

And for cleaning out a disassembled valve and pump tube I use aerosol carburetor or brake cleaner. Shoot generous amounts down through the valve and pump tube. Use a brass shotgun cleaning brush to loosen up the tough crud and get those valve threads nice and clean. I'll put the brush and cleaning rod in an electric drill and run it up and down inside the tube.

Jon

[20cal]

An alcohol flush seems to be more time consuming than a rebuild in some cases; with excessive pumping that could wear on the pump linkage. Of course a rebuild will cost more money, especially if you send it out.

Having worked on many, many Sheridan rifles I have found that the seals have needed replacing on most of them. It is much easier to thoroughly clean the internals with the rifle disassembled. Aerosol carb cleaner works very well as described by Jon.

IMHO, it is more profitable to disassemble the rifle for thorough cleaning and inspection and learn how to do a reseal than to bother with an alcohol flush.

[19Sheridan57]

 I feel that while an alcohol flush MAY help, it is probably just a temporary fix. An overhaul is a better solution, in my opinion.

[RodJ]

Voices of experience have spoken.   Makes complete sense.

Does it make any sense to flush crud as a periodic maintenance item?  Some depends on the material and the solvent.  Butyl is good with the alcohols, but polyurethane is listed as “conditionally” resistant.  Urethane as well I think is conditional. 

Any experience on the resistance and PM flushes?

[19Sheridan57]

  I never heard about an alcohol flush until several years ago. I have owned Sheridans since the 50’s. My original Sheridan lasted over 50 years, shot many 1000’s of times , before it was ever serviced. I have several from the 50’s- 70’s that still work great & are 100% original.
   So, i will say it is up to the owner if they want to do it.

[TooJung2Die]

Does it make any sense to flush crud as a periodic maintenance item?  Some depends on the material and the solvent.

Repeated cleaning with alcohol will harden rubber. I wouldn't make it a habit of flushing an air rifle with alcohol for that reason. I think it's good for a one-time, let's see if this old air rifle will shoot, treatment. The best long term fix is a new seal job. After that, regular lubrication will flush the valve with every shot and keep the seals clean. That's what Timmy Mac's "secret sauce" is designed to do; lubricate and keep the insides shiny. A lot of people have achieved the same results as an alcohol flush with secret sauce, automatic transmission fluid etc. but it takes much longer.

[Pelle]

 OK to flush out a co2 gun with the sauce?

[TerryM]

OK to flush out a co2 gun with the sauce?

 Hope it's OK, I use it in mine.

  By the way, The only replaced seal in my '67 Sheridan is the pump cup. It shoots very well indeed.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Does it make any sense to flush crud as a periodic maintenance item? 

IMHO the only "periodic maintenance" needed on a 'Streak or "Benji" is a couple drops of oil on the hinge points and piston... followed by shooting.
Store it with a pump or two charge and it should last a lifetime.

[19Sheridan57]

 I agree, Scott, but make sure the oil is not petroleum based.

[tminit]

I would but I won’t have pellets till the seal kit comes!  They said two day shipping so maybe Saturday??

When it’s back together I’m going to do a shootout:  392PA, 397PA, 342 Racine, 312, and this CB9 each vs.... Daisy Red Ryder!  Pretty sure NO ONE THUS FAR has put all these rifles head to head.

Where you ordering your .20 pellets from?