Pro Sport Trigger: What needs adjusting?

[Lucas]

New to air guns and only just noticed this characteristic on my Air Arms ProSport (new since May) when I got a different experience on a Weihrauch.

After cocking the Pro Sport, with the safety on, the first stage of the Pro Sport trigger pull has spring recoil as I would expect, enough to push the trigger back to its starting position if I release pressure.

However, when I remove the safety, the first stage of the trigger pull no longer has spring recoil after putting pressure on the trigger  (but not following through the second stage). The trigger will just dangle and not return to starting position.  Normal? Something to remediate? If so, how?   I gave the trigger adjusting screw TX381 a full turn clockwise but that didn't change anything.

[Roadworthy]

There is some pretty good TX 200 trigger stuff on You Tube.  I believe the Pro Sport uses the same trigger design though much of the rifle is different.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tx+200+trigger

[Walnut92]

The screw you have adjusted determines the resistance of the trigger - it basically compresses a spring (TX382) against the bottom sear (TX400) and thus resists trigger movement.

However, if you feel no effective resistance and/or the spring seems to do nothing then the 1st and 2nd stage grub screws (TX431) are probably not actually touching the 'sear' mechanism when the gun is cocked.

So, if I understand you, once cocked the trigger basically 'dangles' until you pull it back and then as soon as you feel any material resistance it pretty much fires instantly?

The reason you DO feel springiness when NOT cocked is that that bottom sear inside the trigger unit is touching the trigger grub screws - it's only when cocked that this sear gets pulled away from the trigger but if set up correctly the FIRST stage grub screw should still be just in contact - so no, or virtually no, 'dangle'.

[Walnut92]

To add a little more:

I bought a nearly-new PS last year which had an aftermarket trigger. It did not have two stages and was similar to the OP's experience: full of 'play' when cocked, and then everything happened at once when pulled.

Essentially I found that the second stage grub screw was never touching the sear - when pulled back the trigger had a zone of no feel until the first stage screw engaged and then only that one did any 'work' to release the sear.

For me, it took winding in the 1st stage screw not that far but enough for it to come into action sooner (i.e. remove the 'play' when cocked), and then wind in the 2nd stage a fair bit so that as you pulled the trigger there was a transition from one screw to the other.

I have to confess I removed the end of the action (whilst attending to something else) and this allowed me to see much more easily which screw was doing what.

Appreciate many will know all this, but in the interests of helping OP.