Hunting Master RS disassembly. Tips?

[rkr]

Well that's unfortunate. The HM2 was also tuned via a weighted hammer, so I was thinking rhe weighted hammer plus a stronger hammer spring and I'd get to where I'd like it to be.

Lol...PITA seems to be a recurring theme nowadays.

The trigger is heavy to start with, the more spring you add the heavier it becomes. Try heavy hammer first and see if you could actually lighten up the hammer spring. I have mine set up with negative preload.

[Hobbyman2007]

I used weights on either side of the hammer . They were actually cut sections from a brass drift that were already knurled then drill and tap the existing hole on the hammer.

Can you take and post a pic of the trigger group, by the sounds of it it’s not the same as the AR6 I’ve got.

[VaporTrail]

Well that's unfortunate. The HM2 was also tuned via a weighted hammer, so I was thinking rhe weighted hammer plus a stronger hammer spring and I'd get to where I'd like it to be.

Lol...PITA seems to be a recurring theme nowadays.

The trigger is heavy to start with, the more spring you add the heavier it becomes. Try heavy hammer first and see if you could actually lighten up the hammer spring. I have mine set up with negative preload.

Aah...I see. I don't mind the trigger on the RS, so maybe I'll stick to that neighborhood in terms of stiffness. Good thing I just picked up a tap and die set...looks like I'll be putting it to use fairly soon! Thanks again, rkr!

[VaporTrail]

I used weights on either side of the hammer . They were actually cut sections from a brass drift that were already knurled then drill and tap the existing hole on the hammer.

Can you take and post a pic of the trigger group, by the sounds of it it’s not the same as the AR6 I’ve got.

I tried to upload, but pics were too big. Tried to resize, and they're still too big. 

PM me an email, and I can get them sent out to you that way.

[Hobbyman2007]

Does it look like this ?

[VaporTrail]

Yep...pretty much. There's subtle differences between the HM2 trigger group and the RS.

For example, the blade that advances the mag is straighter on the HM2. The RS blade has a slight angle. Swapping out blades didn't help, though. My last resort is to swap hammer springs between the two. I have a feeling that's going to make the the HM2 a real beast.

Or...I can add a weight to the hammer of the RS. That's going to make it pretty nasty too.

[Hobbyman2007]

I did at one point stuff a smaller spring inside the it, the results were it that good. The added hammer weights really helped. Mind you since then added a Cobra chamber to the valve which helped with efficiency but did rob some of the power. Awesome hunting guns , mine is real accurate ( under an inch) with cast ammo at 100meters. Definitely not a planking gun though it really goes through a lot of air.

[SILENT SQUIRREL]

I did at one point stuff a smaller spring inside the it, the results were it that good. The added hammer weights really helped. Mind you since then added a Cobra chamber to the valve which helped with efficiency but did rob some of the power. Awesome hunting guns , mine is real accurate ( under an inch) with cast ammo at 100meters. Definitely not a planking gun though it really goes through a lot of air.

May I ask please?
What is a Cobra Chamber; and where can I learn more about them?
Thanks
Ed

[Hobbyman2007]

Here’s some good reading.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20

The second is close to when the real mods came into play.

[VaporTrail]

I did at one point stuff a smaller spring inside the it, the results were it that good. The added hammer weights really helped. Mind you since then added a Cobra chamber to the valve which helped with efficiency but did rob some of the power. Awesome hunting guns , mine is real accurate ( under an inch) with cast ammo at 100meters. Definitely not a planking gun though it really goes through a lot of air.

That was another option I was thinking about. That, or shimming the hammer spring. As for accuracy, mine's still trying to figure itself out. Probably going to shake her down again this weekend.

Here’s some good reading.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20

The second is close to when the real mods came into play.

Great stuff...thanks! I may need to purchase another rifle and possibly use my current one for parts. Is there really no other way to remove the HS aside from drilling out the rivets? I've never drilled out ports before...so this may be my first attempt. I'm going to assume that I'm going to mess something up.

[Hobbyman2007]

No need to drill out rivets. It’s possible to get the spring out but you have to take the trigger parts out. It will come out if you use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out from the top of the housing. The trick is to remove the pivot on the top of the spring first , and try not to bend the spring on the way out. Drilling the ports is a fairly easy affair, one size at a time and not take too much material off at one time. Another easy one is the port through the back of the action, mine was pretty small from what I remember, and now is at full port size .22” I went to full size porting from the valve through to the magazine, and made the valve inlet as big as I could and added a few holes in the sides of the valve body , not sure if the tube model can take that.

If you’re having a hard time with pics , you can do one of two things . Send the pictures to your email address at a much lower size then post , or you can save them on your PC as a document rather than a pic. Then post them .

[SILENT SQUIRREL]

Here’s some good reading.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=139401.0
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=143416.20

The second is close to when the real mods came into play.

Thanks, Denis
I may be in over my head with this topic, but will read every word.
Understanding will follow slowly
Ed

[VaporTrail]

No need to drill out rivets. It’s possible to get the spring out but you have to take the trigger parts out. It will come out if you use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out from the top of the housing. The trick is to remove the pivot on the top of the spring first , and try not to bend the spring on the way out. Drilling the ports is a fairly easy affair, one size at a time and not take too much material off at one time. Another easy one is the port through the back of the action, mine was pretty small from what I remember, and now is at full port size .22” I went to full size porting from the valve through to the magazine, and made the valve inlet as big as I could and added a few holes in the sides of the valve body , not sure if the tube model can take that.

If you’re having a hard time with pics , you can do one of two things . Send the pictures to your email address at a much lower size then post , or you can save them on your PC as a document rather than a pic. Then post them .

That's reassuring. I think I'll start saving up for that second rifle...looks like I may end up getting in over my head rather quickly. It'll be a shame to buy one just to cannibalize it, but it's not like there's a steady source of spare parts for it. I still need to tinker with the HM2; maybe some it's parts can be transferred over to the RS.

I'll try and see what I can do with the pics; but yes, the trigger group looks very identical to the K550.