Break-Barrel vs Fixed-Barrel

[Allen Rice]

Okay, gang, in your experience which is the better choice: break-barrel or Fixed-barrel?

ar

[subscriber]

Not "better"; preference: Break barrel. 

In theory a fixed barrel should be more accurate.  I don't like heavy air rifles because I like to shoot offhand, so break barrel for me.

[north country gal]

As above, I don't rate one or the other as better. Both have their advantages. I, too, love offhand shooting and the weight of a typical under lever springer for an old gal like me is a deal breaker for that kind of shooting. Off the bench, though, that weights an advantage. 

[Frank in Fairfield]

I have many fixed barrel air rifles.
Some are very expensive and...heavy.
But the best for me are the two break barrels.
The R1 and the R1’s daddy, the HW35.

[Bladebum]

I think it comes down to quality first over simply one design over another. My beeman R9 is as accurate or more as my D460 was. Now, the quality part is more important on a break barrel for longevity of the barrel joint/lockup. If you were comparing cheap made breaker vs fixed, I would take the fixed...but i don't like cheap stuff personally. What I DO like is the shorter length and lighter weight of break barrels over fixed.

[nced]

"which is the better choice: break-barrel or Fixed-barrel"
Both are "best" so I vote both fixed barrel and break barrel 'pending on it's use.

I've owned a .177 HW77k "fixed barrel", a .177 Beeman R10 "break barrel", a couple R9 "break barrels", and a .177 HW95 break barrel. For me the "best" for GENERAL SHOOTING were/are the break barrels but the extra weight of the "77k" did make it easier to shoot accurately (less hold sensitive). Also, since the "fixed barrel" doesn't have a pivoting "break barrel" the length of the scope isn't limited as it is on the "break barrel" as long as the scope is mounted high enough to clear the loading port.

While the HW77k was easier to shoot accurately than my R9 so I used the HW77k when shooting an occasional "state and national level FT match", for local hunter class field target matches (and general airgunning) I use my .177 R9 or .177 HW95 due to lighter weight and more convenient cocking/loading (no need to put loading fingers into a "bear trap"). For state/national level piston class field target matches years ago the HW77k served me well and I was able to take 4th place at the 2010 Nationals shooting hunter class. That was the first year the hunter class was offered at a national match and due to the relatively low hunter class participation piston and PCP hunter class shooters were combined. There were 17 hft entries for that match and all hft shooters but 5 were shooting PCPs, still, I was still able to take 4th place on that mixed field with the HW77k and 4-16x40 Bushnell Elite 4200 AO scope with a duplex reticle.........


Here are a couple groups shot using one on my break barrels shot when I was steady & consistent on the bucket and cross sticks (doesn't always happen) so I don't think I could do better with a fixed barrel springer.......


Anywhoo.......I didn't use the HW77k very much compared to the R9 so it was after moving to North Carolina. Have only been using my R9 or HW95 since so FOR ME the break barrels are better for my general all around shooting...........

[Ribbonstone]

Theory would have fixed barrels ahead...in practice is doesn't seem to matter, although break barrel lock up can get sloppy over time.

If you believe there is a difference,then likely you'll find one.

Problem being it can't be the same exact rifle tested two ways.

The lock-latch type were popular(HW 55), and most people used the rotational latch.  Other springers used a manual latch, but really had to use the latch (didn't have an either/or choice).

Even with that, was not the solid barrel mounting of an under lever or side lever...they shot great simply because thy were fitted well.

[Fate]

What everyone says about weight.

I chose a fixed barrel because I figured it would not have any droop... wrong assumption. It did. So along with my D48's weight and strong cocking effort it took a lot of time, money, and effort to mount my scope the way I wanted it... all because it had the typical Diana droop.

I'm not sure there is a definitive characteristic that makes either stand apart from the other. Both have attributes I like and I'm happy with both, personally, for those reasons.

So maybe the answer is, as always here... get both kinds.

[Arch_E]

I've got both. Both are equally capable--more so accurate than I am able.

Archie

[triggerfest]

Which is the better choice.... For what ?

It comes down to your preferences or practise.

If I shoot from a bench rest, I definitely prefer a fixed barrel. Same as for HFT competition.

But..., when I am plinking or shoot from a standing position, I defintely prefer a break barrel.

Personally, my experience is that I shoot easier / less hold sensitive with a fixed barrel. I do not like the weight of a fixed barrel, while the weight is certainly adding to the accuracy.

[fwbsport]

I can't vote because I have mostly break barrels finding them so easy to operate and use.
But I've also got a sidelever with a straight and fixed barrel all tidied up for dangerous shooting at extended range--the D54 .20 H.S. (Hector Special)--to make the best use of a pellet and power piston properly assembled to last forever!

If I wanted to kill something at long range like a steely target I cannot accept the lack of accuracy the break barrel has.  Maybe in the HW98 I can say that break barrel is way different than most so it is just as good as a D54 within its own limits.  Both good rifles and the best in my inventory!

[nced]

I can't vote because I have mostly break barrels finding them so easy to operate and use.
But I've also got a sidelever with a straight and fixed barrel all tidied up for dangerous shooting at extended range--the D54 .20 H.S. (Hector Special)--to make the best use of a pellet and power piston properly assembled to last forever!

If I wanted to kill something at long range like a steely target I cannot accept the lack of accuracy the break barrel has.  Maybe in the HW98 I can say that break barrel is way different than most so it is just as good as a D54 within its own limits.  Both good rifles and the best in my inventory!

"Maybe in the HW98 I can say that break barrel "
Hummm.....I haven't noticed any "lack of accuracy the break barrel has" with either my HW95 or the HW98 I tuned for a fellow! I'm of the notion that most of my "lack of break barrel accuracy" is simply due to this shooter swayin' on a bucket restin' the gun on cross sticks.

[Yarddog]

I prefer fixed barrels, to be exact, underlevers.  However, the issue of which is more accurate is moot these days. My stable has half break barrels, half underlevers.  Not by any design...just the way it worked out!

[Chris USA]

All other variables aside (many),... fixed barrel equals one less (possible) variable. I had the TX200 and LGU. Now into PCP's.

[nced]

"although break barrel lock up can get sloppy over time"
This is true, however the "get sloppy" is a rather drawn out process but excess barrel pivot bolt tension can speed up the "sloppy adjustment".  Here is a target I shot a few years ago when checking out the trajectory of a specific tune/pellet combination.........

This session consisted of 265 shots "from bucket and sticks" (after a couple thousand previous shots) and by the time a 5 shot group was shot at the 45 yard bull I decided to "snug up" the pivot bolt a bit. The minor pivot bolt tightening did move the poi about 3/4" to the right because pivot bolt tension does affect the windage of the poi.

When adjusting the pivot bolt trension I don't use the Beeman recommended tension from the old R9 owner manuals. Beeman suggested that the pivot bolt be tightened enough so the unlatched barrel would JUST HOLD at any position on the "barrel swing arc". IMHO, this puts excess friction on the barrel shims which causes more "barrel shim wear" than the JUST FALL at any position on the "barrel swing arc" that I use. The "barrel latching chisels" need to put consistent compression on the breech seal and the "lighter barrel tension setting" allows more consistent breech seal compression when the barrel is re-latched. Every HW break barrel I've owned had the barrel pivot tension set much too tight straight from the box so the first thing I do with a new HW break barrel is to reset the tension to the JUST FALL at any position on the "barrel swing arc".

As far as the barrel latch up becoming sloppy, with a quality break barrel like those from HW the wear causing the sloppiness is very gradual and zeroing the gun on occasion accommodates the changes without even noticing. Whenever I start a shooting session the first thing done is a 30 yard zero. The reason is that even changes in atmospheric conditions such as temperature, humidity, etc can change the poi from shooting session to shooting session be it piston gun or PCP..     

[Allen Rice]

ED,
Thanks for the interesting information on adjusting the pivot bolt on a break barrel.  I'll have to try that technique.

ar

[Joey]

I don't have any experience with fixed barrel springers.  The chaps on Verminhunterstv channel on Youtube have shot some exceptional groups with well-tuned breakbarrels.  Si Pittaway says his breakbarrels are every bit as accurate as his fixed barrels. 

[Ribbonstone]

Does take a long time for a break barrelhinge/pivot to get sloppy if it started out life well fitted.

But they will wear over time...and you will need to readjust them.So gradual you won't notice anything wrong for a long time....it just kind of creeps in when you aren't looking.

It's basically the same wear that under levers get...but there a little pivot loosness is no big deal to accuracy...we just don't like the rattle (and a loose heavy part may play games with the vibration pattern).

Also noticed that how you close the barrel on a break barrel does seem to make a difference. The "sneaky" soft.quiet close (may want to do that when hunting)  probably doesn't set the latch quite the same as your normal firm closing......never had the heart to really test the fast hard snap type close.

Still...I like break barrels.  Hands/fingers are in a better location in case of an "Oops". 

BAsically we all get sloppy.  They build anti-bear trap systems.  Any system can fail,but if you DON'T get sloppy and always keep you hand on the cocking system (barrelbreak,side lever,underlever) it just scares you.

THe break barrel and under lever seem more natural to me...holding that lever with your off-hand and loading a pellet with your dominate hand works for me. Cocking a side lever with your strong hand and loading with your left doesn't seem as comforatable.

it's psycologic...which doesn't make it any less real to me.

Years ago had a malfuction with a Webley Osprey(tap loader-side lever).  Results were purely my fault in 4 main ways: I swapped hands ...let go of the side lever...trusted the anti-bear trap...and had my little finger where it shouldn't have been.

5th mistake was hidden...ragged soft-case fibers had fouled the anti-bear trap system...maybe just there, maybe contributed to the "oops"....Still my fault for the ragged case.

Last mashed  1/3" of my pinky was dangling,but still had some blood flow,so they sewed back into place and it took.

PINKY KILLER....got sold to a Webley fan (with appropriate warnings).

[fwbsport]

I wasn't implying lack of accuracy for the power plant, say R9, but for the accuracy and reach (longer ranges) the D54 is the only reasonable alternative using lead pellets at the stuff we shoot at.

[Michael Edelman]

Intuitively, you’d think that a rigid gun would be more accurate, and yet there have been a lot of very accurate break barrel firearms. Before the side lever FWB300, pretty much every Olympic/ISSF air rifle I can think of was a break barrel design.

Break barrels load faster. You can put a barrel shroud on side levers and underlevers like the TX200HC. It’s all trade offs.