Author Topic: Please help me ID this sheridan .20 cal that is in need of tlc (Read 2465 times))

RunsOnAir · « **on:** August 21, 2020, 05:45:21 PM »

I have in my hands a Sheridan multi pumps in .20 caliber.
It has been in my wife's family and ended up in my hands.
I suspect it is from the 90s but that's all I can say.

I am looking for help identifying it because it doesn't hold air anymore and I'd like to fix it for future generations to enjoy it.
Because it needs fixing, if any of you has ideas what parts I should look for, as well as instructions for taking apart etc... do not hesitate to chime in also!

Motorhead · « **Reply #1 on:** August 21, 2020, 06:01:39 PM »

LEFT SIDE being about equal position to the loading tray will be 4 numbers.
They are put in REVERSE of the year manufactured.

AKA: 1691 would be 1961

RunsOnAir · « **Reply #2 on:** August 21, 2020, 06:26:26 PM »

Thanks Scott for your help!

I did not find those 4 digits on the left side. I'm adding a picture of what is present on the left side. Could what I am looking for be under the stock ?

The garbled numbers on the left part of the picture are in my previous post, labeled as "serial #". It is a 6 digits number ending in 84 or 94 (I can't read those easily, the stamping was not perfect.)

bantam5s · « **Reply #3 on:** August 21, 2020, 06:38:51 PM »

This should be a later 80's model as evidenced by rounded top of the breech ( earlier would have a distinct flat with lines cut in it ) the matte silver finish and being drilled and tapped for a William's peep.
You could order 'em with the peep earlier on, but you would not get the standard rear sight with it, post '84 or '86 they all came drilled and tapped for the peep sight.

oldair · « **Reply #4 on:** August 21, 2020, 06:41:14 PM »

You have a Sheridan Silver Streak, made in 1984 per your serial #431284 and Crosman website date listing. On the Web are numerous tutorials on repairing these but a good one is: http://www.ujays.net/sheridan-manual.pdf

You may be able to revive it with a dose of non-detergent oil added to the pump area, but ideally you'd replace the pump cup and internal seals. This requires a 'special tool' to remove the valve parts, which is available from a few sources (Google 'sheridan streak valve tool'). Seal kits are also available from several sources including Mike Baker on this forum.

Don R.

bantam5s · « **Reply #5 on:** August 21, 2020, 06:46:17 PM »

You should stand it up in a corner with some non detergent 10w30 motor oil for a few days and see if it revives the seals.

RunsOnAir · « **Reply #6 on:** August 21, 2020, 06:49:34 PM »

Thank you so much!
I had no idea info still existed about this one, I just thought to ask here when I saw it.

I'm on it!

Motorhead · « **Reply #7 on:** August 21, 2020, 07:16:44 PM »

The "Older" ones have the 4 numbers stamped on the receiver at loading tray area & NOT on the main tube.
Sorry If i misguided you being I know nothing of the newer guns.

A.K.A. Tommy Boy · « **Reply #8 on:** August 21, 2020, 08:57:00 PM »

Hi Ronan.

Your Vintage Sheridan Silver Streak has the rocker safety.

It appears to be already drilled & tapped for a Williams Peep sight.

That's a real Nice Rifle you have.

Best Wishes - Tom

RunsOnAir · « **Reply #9 on:** August 21, 2020, 09:04:17 PM »

Scott, All I can say is that I know next to nothing myself, and I did appreciate you chiming in to help. At the minimum, it encouraged me.
I just came straight to the forum to ask questions without doing my homework first. A Bit like asking how to maintain my air gun without opening the manual it came with.

I have looked at a video on how to disassemble an older model of Sheridan and did the recommended oiling for moving parts using a dab of air compressor oil on the moving parts.
I did pump it and felt resistance building up to a point then plateauing. instead of dry firing it after that, I decided to chamber a pellet from a tin that came with it. When I opened the breech, I clearly heard the air leaking. The sound stopped once the pellet was chambered, but I suspect it just kept escaping through the barrel. There was enough air remaining to send the pellet at roughly 25 yards and heard a thump on the plywood piece I was aiming at.

I'll be back after looking into it some more

RunsOnAir · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2020, 12:36:24 AM »

Hi Tom,
It looks like it indeed. I did not expect that.
I'm now looking into fixing it somehow.
I do not know how it performs at peak power, but with its leak, it is still a very nice plinker. I can follow the pellet with my eyes though. BB style.

19Sheridan57 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2020, 06:16:55 AM »

" Oldair " is correct on the I.D. Use NON detergent 30wt motor oil ,[ transmission fluid will also work ] Lube the pump cup piston area again with several drops. Pump it a little & dry fire it. Pump twice & leave it alone overnight.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #12 on:** August 22, 2020, 07:45:46 AM »

Ronan, just so you are aware...
You have what is considered by many to be the Holey Grail of Vintage pumpers.

I would try the "lube, pump, shoot, pump twice and let it set" method several times before taking it apart.
If it fails to come out of hibernation, they are not hard to reseal, if you are mechanically inclined.
Be warned..... It does take a special tool to disassemble the soldered in valve, and because it is brass, you can cross thread it on reassembly.
So don't go in all "hammer fisted".. take your time and be cautious.

Above all...
CONGRATS!!!

bantam5s · « **Reply #13 on:** August 22, 2020, 08:14:52 AM »

At peak performance you should need no more than 4 pumps for plinking and small pests like rats or sparrows.
Even 3 will have great power for plinking up to 15 yds.
A full 8 pumps will have excellent power, it'll take some real effort to get there and you'll rarely need it but it sure can deliver.

It sounds like some oil and some use just might get it going again, if not 100% full power ot will likely still perform very well if it stops leaking.

avator · « **Reply #14 on:** August 22, 2020, 10:09:45 AM »

Nice gun...
Once you get it up and running, always store it with a couple pumps in it. That will keep the seals nice and tight.

ped · « **Reply #15 on:** August 22, 2020, 02:50:18 PM »

it needs a new valve stem
the oil treatment may cause the seal to swell and seal but it really needs a reseal
you can replace the stem with a discovery stem a modified 2240 stem(piercer part removed ) an as2250 king rat stem or a benjy 39x stem
i've used all of the aforementioned stems in a c series

RunsOnAir · « **Reply #16 on:** August 22, 2020, 04:08:37 PM »

Thank you everyone for chiming in and helping.
I have looked at the kits available on PA as well as those from Baker Airguns on E-Bay.
Baker Airguns has an offer that includes the tools, and that is a tempting one.

I'll see how it goes, but I am looking at getting a total professional overhaul at the moment, as this Sheridan is totally worth that care.
I nonetheless approached Jonathan Brooks, who is the person behind NorthWestAirgun in Sacramento and is very knowledgeable on Sheridans.

He does not take projects at the moment, but sent me toward one of his friends in Fresno, less than 2 hours from where I live.
If that doesn't work, I'll do it myself slowly.

I was pleasantly surprised that I could lock the Sheridan with my right arm against my body and pump with my left arm easily. It did not create the issues I encounter with break barrels (bad right shoulder).
It is short, fits well in the hand, and a total pleasure to shoot. It is noisy to pump, though. stealthy use is not going to happen.

I did use air compressor oil to grease the pump mechanism, but I made the mistake to add a few drops through the air hole thinking it may help also. I learned after the fact that it is a big no-no. I'll be careful when using it. As I'm waiting on my Avenger, this is a mental health saver for me, besides the 'holy grail' part. I have big plans for that Sheridan, and they all involve significant use!

I may disappear from the forums for a while, I have a full tin of 500 Benjamin 14.3 grains that are begging me to take fly lessons. Who am I to say no?

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #17 on:** August 22, 2020, 11:54:26 PM »

Quote

but I made the mistake to add a few drops through the air hole thinking it may help also. I learned after the fact that it is a big no-no.

Not the case where you are at today... that is exactly what it may need.

RunsOnAir · « **Reply #18 on:** August 23, 2020, 12:12:09 AM »

Thank you guys for your kind (private) offers of assistance! I do appreciate.
I have been referred to someone operating a Crosman 'service station' within reasonable distance from where I live. He does work on Sheridans and has the seals in stock. After some basic communication, the plan is for me to drive and drop the Sheridan at his shop and he'll work on it while I wait. It looks like I'll get to drive back home with it the same day.
With my recent less than stellar experience with shipping, I do prefer greatly this option to sending it. Also saves me the aggravation of making an earthquake resistant parcel. This is why I am going that way.

To Scott: it does make sense, and I feel better now.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #19 on:** August 23, 2020, 07:29:40 AM »

Sheridan service "while you wait"?!
That is FANTASTIC!!!

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Please help me ID this sheridan .20 cal that is in need of tlc

Author Topic: Please help me ID this sheridan .20 cal that is in need of tlc (Read 2465 times))