Tru-Oil Results!

[Air Head]

Howdy Gents!

I started a poll a few weeks ago and Tru-Oil beat out Tung Oil here on GTA.

So I gave it a shot. It is indeed easier to work with than Tung Oil, similar results though. I have to say I am impressed.

This is a 1963 Blue Streak, I resealed it with a Mac 1 kit, drilled and tapped it for a Williams peep sight. Refinished the stock with Tru-Oil
and the barrel and pump tube with Brownells Aluma Hyde II.

I also had a poll as to scope it or not, I followed the purist views I read and kept it more classic and stream line with the Williams.

Thanks to all for the input!

[TooJung2Die]

That looks very nice! Good job on very good wood.
If you really want to get impressed with Tru-Oil try using the "Armor-All magic elixir" method. I'm not joking. You can apply twice the number of coats in the same time and it goes on smoother. You have to use original formula Armor-All for it to work. Google "Tru-Oil magic elixir" and you'll find several links. I think the best description is on Rimfire Central by the person who discovered it.

[Air Head]

That looks very nice! Good job on very good wood.
If you really want to get impressed with Tru-Oil try using the "Armor-All magic elixir" method. I'm not joking. You can apply twice the number of coats in the same time and it goes on smoother. You have to use original formula Armor-All for it to work. Google "Tru-Oil magic elixir" and you'll find several links. I think the best description is on Rimfire Central by the person who discovered it.

Thank you! I'll check it out.

[uglymike]

Small game huntin' machine, ready for a few more decades of service! Nice.

[RBQChicken]

Was the aluma-hyde hard to work with?  Did you seal it somehow afterwards?

Fantastic job!

[HunterWhite]

I've been experimenting with the armor-all trick. It's really fast to cure. I don't know what's in Armor-all, but it really kicks the process.

Hunter

[R1lover]

Armor All?  Gotta check that out.  I sprayed several fairly heavy coats of Tru Oil on a stock once and it took a week before I felt confident handling it and a month before it smelled cured (i.e., little or no odor).  Came out nice but won't be doing that again.

[Air Head]

Was the aluma-hyde hard to work with?  Did you seal it somehow afterwards?

Fantastic job!

Thank you!

The Aluma-Hyde was a bit of a pain to work with. I recommend purchasing spare tips (Brownells sells them, They should include spare tips with the rattle can!)
When I do it again I'll change tips between coats whether it needs it or not. It clogged and spit out a several glops. I followed their 4 coat procedure they have on YouTube to a "T".
They failed to mention it has a tendency to clog.

I had to lightly sand it down with a scotch bright sanding pad to remove the splatter. I bought new tips and gave it 2 more light coats. I again lightly sanded it with "fine" Scotch brite pad
after it cured.

I used Brownells semi-gloss but it looked too shiny in my opinion. That's why (along with smoothing it out) I lightly sanded it. To bring back the luster a bit I used Johnson's Paste
Wax with 000 steel wool. There's a good video on the Tube about it. You can make it as shiny as you want with this method. In all honesty it looks better than the pictures I posted,
and seems to be pretty durable, after cure.

If you try this be sure to have your spare tips ready, shake well, and you can warm the can in hot water prior. Watch their video on the proven 4 step procedure. You can adjust the sheen or
gloss as I described above. The cure time is for real, I'd wait 7 days before reassemble.

I reviewed many finishes, GunKote, Cerakote, they both compared better, Aluma-Hyde II was no slouch though, it was cheaper and did not require baking. I didn't want to bake it because I
had already resealed it.

I will use it again, you just need to know what to expect.

Rich 

 

[Air Head]

Small game huntin' machine, ready for a few more decades of service! Nice.

Thanks Mike!

[oledawg]

I've been experimenting with the armor-all trick. It's really fast to cure. I don't know what's in Armor-all, but it really kicks the process.

Hunter

If you’re interested 😃
According to patent documents, Armor All typically contains water, PDMS (silicone), diethylene glycol, glycerin, and various additional chemical compounds.[1]

[HunterWhite]

I put Tru-oil on the wood and rub it in, then I spray Armour-all and rub it with the Tru-oil for a few minutes. I wipe off the excess and it will be dry to the touch in 15 minutes.
The guy that I read about sprayed the AA first, then applied the T.O. I read about another guy that mixed them before applying to the wood. I did my own thing. T.O., soak, spray AA then wipe and leave it to dry/cure.
I am considering getting a wood stocked BB gun from Wal-Mart to try first. At this point I'm just testing the process on pine 2x4's.
I hope that anyone who tries this will tell us about their experiences.

Hunter

[Van]

   Brownells has a special clean out nozzle as well as the extra tips for the Aluma-Hyde. It has a large spray hole in it.  You use it between coats with the can turned upside down to clean out the spray tube in the can so it does not form the glops, then use either the same tip if its clear or a new one.  Since I found out about that I've had no problems with clogs.  I like the Matt Black better, then after it cures spray some clear satin seal coat if I want some sheen.  I don't know why they do not list the clean out nozzle with the extra ones.  It's kind of lost on later pages.  Also on parts that will not be harmed by heat, like 2240 frames, you can bake in the oven at 190 degrees for about 2 1/2 hours for a quick cure.

[TooJung2Die]

I hope that anyone who tries this will tell us about their experiences.

I've used the "magic elixir" of Armor All and Tru-Oil on several stocks. I won't do it the old way anymore, it takes too long to build up enough layers to fill the grain. First, I always wear nitrile surgical gloves. It makes the finish smoother and you'll never leave fingerprints. Spray a small amount of Armor All on the area you are going to treat. Don't try to cover large areas. Use enough Armor All to make the area shiny but not wet. Dip a couple of fingers in the Tru-Oil and start spreading and rubbing it in. In a few minutes the catalyst in the Armor All begins to kick in and it will harden the Tru-Oil while rubbing. The Armor All comes to the surface and lubricates the hardening Tru-Oil as you rub. You can feel the change take place as you're rubbing. It's amazing. In about 15-20 minutes you can add another coat of Armor All and Tru-Oil.

After at least 6 coats comes the part I hate but it's mandatory. Using 220 grit sandpaper, sand off the layers you just put on. Then build up another 6 or more layers of Tru-Oil. If you see any pores or evidence of the wood grain showing, sand it off again. Yes I know you feel like you're ruining all the work you did. But it pays off in the end. Eventually the finish will harden perfectly smooth and every pore in the wood will be filled. It will be as smooth as glass. Add another couple of coats and you have a professional gun stock finish.

[Andrew]

Found that link on Rimfire Central, fascinating stuff, he discovered it by accident.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108&highlight=blond

[Goose]

Wow, Rich!  You did a beautiful job with it!

Stay safe,

J~

[Air Head]

Wow, Rich!  You did a beautiful job with it!

Stay safe,

J~

Thanks Jeff!

You stay safe too!

[45flint]

Curious the need to fill the grain, most of my classic vintage gun have the grain visible, adds to feel and beauty of the wood.  Total mirror gloss does not have as much character to me? 

[RBQChicken]

I agree, although having the grain all filled doesn't mean you have to have a gloss finish. 

[TooJung2Die]

There's no rule that says you have to fill the grain. It's quicker and easier not to fill the grain. I learned the finishing method I like to use from Mike Chavka's Stock Making 101 manual. It's still in the GTA archives: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/PDF/MikeChavkaStockMaking101.pdf
The chapter on finishing with Tru-Oil begins on page 96. The only thing I do differently is using the Armor All method.

Here's a sample of Mike's stock making and finishing art:

[Van]

Curious the need to fill the grain, most of my classic vintage gun have the grain visible, adds to feel and beauty of the wood.  Total mirror gloss does not have as much character to me?

  That's my thoughts too.  My vintage guns look great without the walnut grain completely filled.  A few modern guns of mine had beautiful walnut figure but looked artificial due to the glass slick finish.  They really looked great after using Klean-Strip spray.  The factory plastic looking finish foamed up and came right off in sheets.  Then I sanded and applied an oil finish that did not completely fill the grain and no one has to ask if it is real wood anymore.  True Oil finish that fills the grain does look better than the plastic stuff though.  Just a matter of personal taste I guess.