Author Topic: Spring compressor (Read 3756 times))

mdm · « **on:** July 01, 2020, 04:12:00 PM »

Do you need a spring compressor for a R7?

triggerfest · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2020, 04:30:51 PM »

No, you don't...

Robert 5mm · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2020, 05:01:59 PM »

The make your self spring compressor is simple - c-clamp with brackets on 2x6 and 2x4 wood frame work.
I just searched for plans - basic construction. Then you can open up any springer.

mdm · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2020, 06:16:55 PM »

Good to know Thanks.

Sky · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2020, 06:40:26 PM »

My R7 came with enough preload to hurt you. I'd make/buy one.

DanD · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2020, 06:56:34 PM »

I work on the gun vertically, muzzle up. After removing the trigger cartridge, I put denim or heave cloth over the barrel and pull it down while I unscrew the plug fixing screw. When the crew is out you can ease off the pulling pressure.
On reassembly I pull the receiver down over the plug in the same manner, but I stick a punch/dowel/screwdriver through a trigger pin hole temporarily hold things together. This allows me to easily adjust pulling pressure to line up the fixing screw without having to pull against the entire spring.
Variations of this method also work with guns held together by two pins, like Dianas with cartridge triggers.
Have fun!

Stinger177 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2020, 08:51:48 PM »

It's very important upon reassembly to align (and insert at least one of them) the dowel pins prior to re-inserting the locking screw. Usually, the back end of the trigger housing needs to go in just past flushness of the receiver tube to make the screw and pins align. I use a bar clamp (or spring compressor) with an old piston seal to get that trigger housing just past flush. It takes a bit of fiddling. One COULD do it by body pressure, but if you don't have a second person there to lock in at least one pin (or a 5/32 [4mm] pin punch) you can easily mess up the threads on the locking screw.

In order of disassembly:

Compress the spring fully.

Loosen and remove the locking screw.

Remove the two trigger housing pins.

Slowly (and with control) loosen the compression.

To reassemble:

Compress the spring until you can get the pins fully inserted.

Insert and tighten the locking screw.

Bottom line is, you don't want all that shear force solely upon the locking screw. The pins should be carrying that force.

HTH

mdm · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2020, 10:23:20 PM »

Happy for that info.I will give it the old collage try when ready..There is so much good info on this site .

Oldgringo · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2020, 11:18:36 PM »

Here's my homemade spring compressor. It's handled HW30's, R7&9's, Hw 97's and HW35's:

mdm · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2020, 10:28:06 AM »

Your spring compressor looks simple ,effective and inexpensive to make .I will be getting the material's this morning for the project .Thanks for it.

Oldgringo · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2020, 10:37:53 AM »

Quote from: mdm on July 02, 2020, 10:28:06 AM

Your spring compressor looks simple ,effective and inexpensive to make .I will be getting the material's this morning for the project .Thanks for it.

My spring compressor was made from 'stuff' that was laying around my shop. Good luck with yours.

SpiralGroove · « **Reply #11 on:** July 02, 2020, 01:00:47 PM »

Quote from: Oldgringo on July 01, 2020, 11:18:36 PM

Here's my homemade spring compressor. It's handled HW30's, R7&9's, Hw 97's and HW35's:

+1 Gringo...
I made one from the plans listed on the Charlie Da Tuna website (Cost $20).
Originally made for my Hatsan 95/135's - (Dicy every time - due to extreme spring pressure), but now used for all my Weihrauchs ... regardless of model.
Life's too short ... better safe than sorry - too many things out there to "get you" already

nced · « **Reply #12 on:** July 02, 2020, 02:31:26 PM »

Quote from: mdm on July 01, 2020, 04:12:00 PM

Do you need a spring compressor for a R7?

I use a padded Groz sash clamp for compressing the spring of my HW95 and Beeman R9. Long ram screw, heavy construction, no need to remove the barrel to compress the spring and bought at a WoodCraft store.......

EricFR · « **Reply #13 on:** July 02, 2020, 03:02:44 PM »

Here's mine, no need to remove a lot, except scope and stock of course, no matter if fixed or break barrels.

I used it tens of times so far :

Oldgringo · « **Reply #14 on:** July 02, 2020, 03:06:54 PM »

Quote from: SpiralGroove on July 02, 2020, 01:00:47 PM

Quote from: Oldgringo on July 01, 2020, 11:18:36 PM
Here's my homemade spring compressor. It's handled HW30's, R7&9's, Hw 97's and HW35's:
+1 Gringo...
I made one from the plans listed on the Charlie Da Tuna website (Cost $20).
Originally made for my Hatsan 95/135's - (Dicy every time - due to extreme spring pressure), but now used for all my Weihrauchs ... regardless of model.
Life's too short ... better safe than sorry - too many things out there to "get you" already

Roger that. I figure I may have about a half dozen years left...if I'm lucky.

Yogi · « **Reply #15 on:** July 02, 2020, 09:49:12 PM »

I bought the "rail lock" model. Have not used it yet however...

-Y

Pistonpellet · « **Reply #16 on:** April 21, 2022, 01:58:42 AM »

Hi, just purchased a spring rail compressor for dismantling my R9 . Do I use it to apply pressure to back of the trigger block in order to more easily pop out the 4 little blocks ? First time taking this gun apart . Replacing spring with pg4 ho vortex tune kit. I assume compressor will be used to push block in but will I be able to rotate block to lock in grove with pressure from compressor? I am new to working on this gun . Thanks Al

Yogi · « **Reply #17 on:** April 21, 2022, 07:19:09 AM »

Quote from: Pistonpellet on April 21, 2022, 01:58:42 AM

Hi, just purchased a spring rail compressor for dismantling my R9 . Do I use it to apply pressure to back of the trigger block in order to more easily pop out the 4 little blocks ? First time taking this gun apart . Replacing spring with pg4 ho vortex tune kit. I assume compressor will be used to push block in but will I be able to rotate block to lock in grove with pressure from compressor? I am new to working on this gun . Thanks Al

Yup, that how you do it.
Tons of videos on U-tube that show how to do it.
Search for them!

-Y

Toxylon · « **Reply #18 on:** April 21, 2022, 08:05:38 AM »

After dabbling with home-made spring compressors I came to realize that a simple, store-bought sash clamp does everything a dedicated spring compressor does, only better.

I got a cheap, Chinese sash clamp, around 40" long and with 160mm of jaw travel. That, and a couple of shims, is all I need to break down any springer, of any size and strength (I have guns from a tiny D25 to a Hatsan 135). As a bonus, the sash clamp can still be used for clamping other stuff, when not in use for springers.

Bayman · « **Reply #19 on:** April 21, 2022, 09:06:23 AM »

Quote from: Pistonpellet on April 21, 2022, 01:58:42 AM

Hi, just purchased a spring rail compressor for dismantling my R9 . Do I use it to apply pressure to back of the trigger block in order to more easily pop out the 4 little blocks ? First time taking this gun apart . Replacing spring with pg4 ho vortex tune kit. I assume compressor will be used to push block in but will I be able to rotate block to lock in grove with pressure from compressor? I am new to working on this gun . Thanks Al

You don't need a spring compress for the reinstall. There's less preload with the Vortek kit. Cut a 1"length of 1/2" pvc, place it on a towel and then put a cloth gun patch or piece of thin rubber or leather over the top of the pvc to give it some grip. Stand the rifle on its end. Grab the gun with two hands and push down and twist to get the trigger block keyed in. Temporarily align the trigger block with a 4mm or 5/32" punch and install the 4 blocks. They should tap in with a plastic screw driver handle. Easy peasy

Thank you to our advertisers!

Spring compressor

Author Topic: Spring compressor (Read 3756 times))