A successful great experiment!

[makenzie71]

Has anyone tried this with JB Weld?

Does anyone still make a STEEL weaver receiver than can be welded or soldered to the gun?  I'd almost rather do that.

[MustangMike]

The easiest way would be to get an adapter, I have one and have been waiting till I can pay for the rest of that mustang wire statue... pm me if ur need if ur in need of that adapter

[makenzie71]

The easiest way would be to get an adapter, I have one and have been waiting till I can pay for the rest of that mustang wire statue... pm me if ur need if ur in need of that adapter

yeah yeah I need a dovetail/weaver adapter for my Titan, but I'm looking at another project, too.  I just bought some TS45 side lever guns I'm going to try and clean up...and flip two, if I can.  They don't have groves so I'm going to have to affix a rail and I don't particularly like the idea of drilling and tapping to set a rail.  I also don't really care much for welding.  But either I feel are superior to the rail that clamps to the rear sight.

I don't know anything about the glue used here, but I know that JB Weld sports a superior bond to the Acuglass stuff sold with the normal glue-on mounts...but that's always subject to the application.  Just curious if anyone has tried it.

[pappa]

makenzie71,

I have used JB weld for decades for various applications and know for a fact that it was too brittle and shatters under shock too easily to work here. I have even seen postings by members on GTA that tried this with JB weld and they experiences failure due to recoil shock. Just won't work.

Some epoxies might work but I fear shock failures with those too. Some epoxies harden into almost glass like masses that tend to be brittle. The thing that I really like about this Welder glue is that it grips like a vise but it remains somewhat elastic and absorbs the strong shock of the break barrel rifle. As I have already expressed, this feature does NOT detract from it's usefulness of holding a strong, heavy scope to zero. If you back up in this thread a bit, you can see a somewhat descriptive understanding and conclusions of what I have learned about using this glue that might prove helpful.

For others who are recommending screw-on adapters, the very reason I set out to do this project comes from a looong time experience in hunting with high power rifles. It is a dead-on fact that the lower you can mount any sighting system on a rifle, the more efficient that sighting system will be. Just ask any long time hunter or professional! Every screw-on dovetail to Weaver adapter that I found resulted in the scope being mounted WAY too high above the bore to make me comfortable. If you go back up and look at the pictures I posted, the front of the scope is almost touching the receiver. I could not have even come close to this with a screw-on adapter.

[makenzie71]

I just thought I would ask because I have a good stock of the stuff.  I also have a lot of another type of epoxy...I can't remember exactly what it is, but it's a Loctite compound we used to hold together oilfield sucker rod.  I'm going to give them a shot (not to be dismissive of your suggestions...it's just that they're free and I wouldn't have to explain the purchases to the boss haha).

[pappa]

If ANYONE comes up with a good epoxy solution that beats this, please let us know. The one thing that makes me despondent about using this Welder glue is the set-up time. Would really be neat if I could do this with a set up time of a few hours other than days. A pliable epoxy that also holds real tight might also solve the question that has been brought up about soldering or welding a mount to a receiver.

[QVTom]

Looks like pappa found a great adhesive!  I would consider post curing the glue in an oven at ~50degF more than the highest temp your application will encounter.  This is required for most industrial epoxies and may apply to the Welder glue as well. 

-Tom

[pappa]

Looks like pappa found a great adhesive!  I would consider post curing the glue in an oven at ~50degF more than the highest temp your application will encounter.  This is required for most industrial epoxies and may apply to the Welder glue as well. 

-Tom

Why? First, the glue is doing exactly what I need and want in its present state and second, you expect me to break down the rifle and stick it in the oven???

[QVTom]

Pappa, There is a big difference from "consider" to "expect"   I would never expect you to do anything base on some guy's post on the internet

I worked for several year as a product development engineer at a company that made equipment for the the entertainment industry.  Because the other side of this company was involved in production of special effects, vendors had a strange, sort of romantic, fascination  with us and would love to pay personal calls.  So much so that if I asked our 3m sales rep who worked for a distributor about a product, he would show up with a box of samples and an applications engineer from 3m. This direct line to the applications engineer is where I learned about post curing of epoxies, acrylics and urethanes. 

Basically, the adhesives mechanical properties performance is the poorest at the cure temp.  Cure to 150f and operate at 100f allow you to get the maximum from the adhesive. Cure at 90 and leave you gun in the sun on a hot day the bond may be compromised while it is still warm.  After if cools down you have basically raised you cure temp and the bond is good to a higher temp.  Post curing at a known temp take some of the uncertainty away.

Again, a suggestion for dialog

-T

[makenzie71]

I also used to work with industrial epoxies and can vouch for that.  We had to have our products cure at 100~120*f because they were expected to be stored under direct sunlight that would exceed their intended use temperatures..  It makes a superior bond.

I pull tested couplings to confirm this.  These couplings were glued to 3/4" fiberglass rod.  I took two batches of rods...ones cured in higher temperatures and ones cured at ambient...then they were left outside in the sun for two weeks.  The uncured ones broke loose (to slide down the length of the rod) at 2200psi.  The cured ones broke loose at 5800psi.  Those are averages between ten pulls per variety.

If you have the means to heat-cure the glue it is very worth it.  You can do it with a halogen light and not have to tear down the gun.