Sleeving FX .25 STX Supreme liner

[mackeral5]

It’s not very difficult to slot a 1/4 steel rod with. Hack saw....chuck it up in a power drill and use the abrasive clothe to remove .02-.03” from the inside of a cf tube.

If I recall correctly, think it took 15-20 min. And that with trial and error on wrapping the abrasive cloth around the rod properly.

I used epoxy from a cf repair kit. And JB weld on the steel to steel components.

I am familiar with this method, but previous attempts at using similar methods resulted in either moving the bore off center or varying ID somewhere along its length.  It's not one of my go to methods due to my lack of ability to use it precisely.  I'm not challenging the effectiveness of this method when used by others, but it hasn't worked well for me. 

It looks like Rockwest Composites combined with the various ebay sellers should provide great selection for future projects.   

In a couple of weeks I plan to pick up a stick of their .375/.503.  I am getting closer to being comfortable with using this liner in my B51 project.

I understand your concern Mike D, and we all have to use the methods we are comfortable using for our particular projects for sure.  The biggest trick with this method is only opening it up the minimum amount required, and much like using a lathe, it is hard to get it off center to a certain extent.  The key is in keeping the drill spinning and the sand paper moving, while not opening up one part of the CF more than another part.  That is especially true for the end sections, since that is where keeping things centered is the most important.  Think of it like spray painting, you have to keep a steady movement and never let it sit in one spot more than another.  I use more epoxy than I know I need, and the extra is pushed out at the end when installing the liner in the CF.  What spaces may have a slight variation are filled with the epoxy.  I've found harder part being the thimble end of things and the leade in.  That is the part that has caused me the most trouble when I've done it.  All that being said, I've been pretty happy with the last one I did.  Repeated long range accuracy has been the reward when I did get it right. 

I used a drill mounted to be stationary and at a constant speed, while moving the CF up and down on the rod with a dremel sanding drum that was cut and placed on the rod.  I found the  inherent roundness of that sanding drum gives me a more consistent result.  Not that I'm saying you should do what I do.  I'm just saying what did work for me at least.  It is pretty awesome to be able to make 300+ yard shots on 12oz cans regularly, and 200 yards and under are very high percentage shots at this point. 

Like many others have stated, there is more than one way to skin the cat for sure.  I look forward to seeing some good results from the gun when you do undertake the barrel build, regardless of the methods

Thanks for sharing the info Donny.  The transition from thimble to lead has to be pretty challenging to make.  When I do mine I will be sleeving the liner end with some form of steel/brass tubing, with a traditional style transfer port through the liner.  The accuracy you have achieved with your builds is very impressive to say the least. 

I'm pretty confident in my TJ barreled Bulldog which I sleeved up to 19mm with CF tubing.  Some day I hope to be able to stretch it out beyond my little 100 yard home range. 

Here is an interesting bit of info.  Today I pushed a JSB 34gr through the STX Superior liner.  I was surprised to find a pretty tight choke at the last 1.5-2" of barrel towards the muzzle.  Based on what I read about this barrel's performance with slugs I didn't expect to find such a significant choke.....Feels very much like an Mrod barrel, choke wise.  I had to push a few pellets through just to be certain, they all felt the same.  Buttery smooth until the last 1.5-2" of barrel, then it took considerable force to get it through the choke. 

[KnifeMaker]

loc-tite 638

This is what I've used in the past

High modulus is probably fine. I'm layering tubes using the uni to sleeve closer to the liner, using the HM around it for sturdiness. I'd imagine these thin uni's would hold up on their own and provide adequate structural stiffness, but I'm a go all out kinda guy lol

Why not a single type for the entire sleeve?  Just curious.  So, if I'm reading that right, you'd use unidirectional as an inner sleeve to shore up the FX barrel, then sleeve that in High Modulus?

Tom, one of the biggest reasons, if not using an FX type thimble is the cf will fail if you try  to use set screws to secure it to the actioni. Worse yet, the FX and Brownells liners are far too thin to use the set screws directly on them. Hence, the need for a steel tube over the liner to receive the pressure and torque of the set screws to prevent future damage to the CF or liner.


Mike