1377/1322 adjustable trigger spring

[WhatUPSbox?]

I find that if you take the tube and barrel off (front and back screws), you get easy access to the top of the trigger and the safety spring. You can see it bottom center, right at the edge of the grip on the bottom. the ball is under the spring and they can both be removed (and re-installed) in a controlled manner.

In the picture you can also see the washer/shim I put on the side of the sear. Now is a good time to pick out the thickness of the washer you want to use.

You can also see the black block I used under the sear instead of the shinny white Lego Jason used. I made it out of some Delrin before Lego fit was discovered.

Once the ball issue is out of the way, working trigger parts is relatively easy.

Hope that helps, good luck.

[johnnyfoos]

spooner-
craigh 
 is right
the only parts needed are
2300-038  spring spacer
2300-039  nut for spacer
he also listed the spring
NS1200-016
I would get the spring from just about anyplace
it isn't much just a lighter one

even if you bought all three from
crosman
it would cost you about half or less
and even with shipping
$4
 you will be ahead

All my 13XX's have these in them

just
sayn

[MI Yeti]

Jason put together a great How-to on crosman trigger tune
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=138633.0

One thing that helps is to have a way to measure trigger pull. I use one of the electronic fish or luggage scales. It is not as accurate as the dedicated trigger scales but gets you in the ball park.

thanks Stan, much appreciated! I don't have any kind of scale but I will be able to tell. I will definitely watch that tonight after work. 
im a "lefty" so what happens is sometimes while im squeezing the trigger I accidently push in the safety, lol. a lighter trigger pull will help me overcome that. 

I am also left handed. Here is a link to some great  SS LH safeties. I have two and love them. Need a couple more lol He also makes them in brass. Spend $25 for free shipping. For order cheaper than $25 you will need to contact Don.
https://cothranmachine.com/ss-safety-left-handed/

[Spooner]

That picture was excellent Stan... i could see all in there and gave me a perfect perspective on what was done and where. I had time before going in the door so I went ahead and read the thread. I do cnc machining for a living, so I understood what he was talking about with regard to die roll, break, and tear. The lego was genius... funny, but genius. I still got a little ways to go before I go that far in comfortably, but everything he explained makes perfect sense. I would have to study a little closer what he did to reshape the sear, but I think I get it. I'm hoping this weekend to be able to sit down with my spare 1377 and do a teardown and reassembly of the trigger section. Once I do that, I'll be at ease with this. the washer idea for loose play is nice and I have a bunch of SS shims that I use in my RC helicopter stuff that I am pretty
sure will fit.

thanks Johnny... that is definitely the simplest solution for sure. The problem is that Crosman says the same thing everytime I call them about any part. They just can't be of much help right now and understandably so. With them all working at home, it has been difficult just to even reach them. Once things return to some sense of normal for everyone and they have a chance to restock i can make an order that includes everything I need rather than a piece here, a piece there, and pay shipping once. For now, the adjustable will get me what I need on the 1322, which isnt much, and I can experiment with these other great options on my spare gun as I go. 

Thanks MI Yeti... ill check them out. 

[WhatUPSbox?]

Robert, Sounds like a good plan. Just one note, you do not want to reshape the sear on the corner where it contacts the hammer. I inadvertently slightly rounded that corner on a 1322 and it would not hold. 

[Spooner]

Robert, Sounds like a good plan. Just one note, you do not want to reshape the sear on the corner where it contacts the hammer. I inadvertently slightly rounded that corner on a 1322 and it would not hold.

Thanks for the heads up Stan  .  I will study that thread very thoroughly before I make any changes to the sear itself. I'll be using my spare 1377 for anything like this so if I make a mistake, no big deal as it won't affect the other two. I can always replace a part on the spare and try again until I get it right before attempting it on the two I use.

[Robert 5mm]

I went the safe route - compressed the existing spring in a vise to the max.
Too short. Pulled spring by hand to lengthen it. Not enough - would not cock.
Pulled spring more by hand - now it cocks and is a lighter trigger.

[Spooner]

my adjustable trigger spring came yesterday and I installed it in my 1322 carbine. it works great and I now have a lighter trigger. did the bump test as well with no inadvertent hammer release. that with the trigger shoe that Crosman added... this one is now exactly how I want it.

I sat down tonight to break down the trigger assembly on my spare 1377 ... couldn't get the rear screw to come loose without damaging it. I tried a properly matching flat screw driver as well as a square head driver. I haven't tried heating it with a soldering pencil, im assuming I am fighting Loctite here, but have to find my mini ratchet and driver set before I attempt this again. I wont risk stripping these bolts out. I also don't want to risk chasing that tiny spring and ball across a dark tan carpet by taking the side cover off before removing the trigger assembly from the pump tube. i'll pick this up again tomorrow.

[Back_Roads]

 If it is the rear barrel screw that is located by the probe, it is highly recommended to apply downward pressure on the back of the barrel to relieve pressure on that screw, before attempting to turn it loose, reverse helps with assembly also.

[Matchstickshooter]

I went the safe route - compressed the existing spring in a vise to the max.
Too short. Pulled spring by hand to lengthen it. Not enough - would not cock.
Pulled spring more by hand - now it cocks and is a lighter trigger.

I have a fender washer that just slips over a Philips screwdriver.
I drop the spring onto the screwdriver and then compress it by hand with the washer.
 And yes if you go too far you can stretch it back out a little.
 Not my idea....saw this once on a YT video!
     
 

[Spooner]

If it is the rear barrel screw that is located by the probe, it is highly recommended to apply downward pressure on the back of the barrel to relieve pressure on that screw, before attempting to turn it loose, reverse helps with assembly also.

Thanks James  . I just want to remove the trigger housing from the pump tube without dis-assembling the rest. The barrel screws were out last year when I changed to a steel breech so those are good. I just gotta get the right combination of tools is all.

[WhatUPSbox?]

Yeah, a square bit with a wrench on it is what I think I used the first time.

[WhatUPSbox?]

Also, if you don't have a hanging scale, another way to get the measurement is to use a kitchen scale, put a weight on it that's heavier than your expected trigger pull and pull up on it with a cord looped over the trigger. If you have an electronic scale, if you tare it before you lift, you'll get the measurement directly, otherwise just subtract. If you use something soft (spring, bungee, etc.) in the lift cord it is easier to approach the trigger break. The reading depends on where on the trigger you pull so pick a spot similar to your finger and mark it to get repeatable measurements.

Yes, best done unloaded otherwise you have to explain (or cover) that little hole in the ceiling.

[Spooner]

Yeah, a square bit with a wrench on it is what I think I used the first time.

thanks Stan... I finally got it. I had a handle driver and the correct square tip bit and got the rear frame bolt out. i'll need to replace that one though as it is a little rough. I followed the tip to hold the gun upright, hold it all together and remove it slowly by separating the trigger frame straight down... no flying spring and ball  .  I had to heat one of the frame cover screws to get it free and i'll need to replace it as well. it is on the verge of its hex being stripped out. gotta love that Loctite, lol. anyway... I got in it, looked it all over, re-read that thread, and see where and how all these improvements are done. pretty straight forward and I am very comfortable with it all now. once I get some washers, (my RC stuff was too small), i'll experiment on this spare 1377 making the changes to the sear shown in that thread, take the loose play out of the trigger and sear, lighten the trigger spring a little, then move on to the two I use once I have done it correctly on the spare one.

unfortunately, I don't have any kind of scales I can use so I just have to do this by "feel". its ok though, I only needed a little, I got it on the 1322, and it feels really good now. yeah, lol, any appearance of small holes to the inside of the house will result in large bumps appearing on my head, hahaha. 

[Robert 5mm]

As a replacement screw - I have used 8-32 x 3/4 and a Dremel cutoff for the proper length.
The front one I also used a washer - rear one not.

[Spooner]

As a replacement screw - I have used 8-32 x 3/4 and a Dremel cutoff for the proper length.
The front one I also used a washer - rear one not.

Thanks Robert, if these are just 8-32 screws I can get any size and type at work. 

[Longbob]

Have you seen Davids blog: r.e. Post #2... Modifaction #1 - Sear Spring Adjuster "Tuning" Mod ?

http://www.alchemyairwerks.com/alchemy-blog

I'm considering getting it too.

http://www.alchemyairwerks.com/store/p141/ADJUSTABLE_TRIGGER_SEAR.html

I use a lighter spring for the 1377 / 1322 sear like everyone else does and it does work pretty good; but, I think those adjustable trigger sears and the how to DIY at the blog to be worthwhile.

[Spooner]

Have you seen Davids blog: r.e. Post #2... Modifaction #1 - Sear Spring Adjuster "Tuning" Mod ?

http://www.alchemyairwerks.com/alchemy-blog

I'm considering getting it too.

http://www.alchemyairwerks.com/store/p141/ADJUSTABLE_TRIGGER_SEAR.html

I use a lighter spring for the 1377 / 1322 sear like everyone else does and it does work pretty good; but, I think those adjustable trigger sears and the how to DIY at the blog to be worthwhile.

I haven't seen that blog but I will check it out. Looks like a pretty good read.

Yes, that is the adjustable trigger I am using and I like it very much. There are cheaper ways to do this but I like the fact that I can change it without removing it. Give it a turn, test it, and done. It is a bit pricey for what it is but for my purposes... it was worth it.

[Spooner]

I was able to sit down tonight and experiment a little with my spare 1377. I love the washer idea for the sear and the trigger. it is amazing how much smoother the action is with the slop gone. haven't polished the sear and trigger yet, that will be next. replaced all the housing and trigger frame bolts with much better ones from work. I went with Allen heads for the two trigger frame bolts... much easier to work with than those slotted / square driver bolts. 

[WhatUPSbox?]

Looks like you tested positive for the MOD-IT virus. Yes this forum is a known hot spot.

I found that the notch in the rear sight is a little wide for the front blade on the 13xx guns. I first made some new metal blades with a smaller notch but I have access to a 3D printer and ended up printing a few until they looked the right width. https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=172946.0

Then a nice set of DIY grips is just a few Dremel hours away.

And then.....