Alright, I got ants in my pants last night so I went ahead and took about 0.3” off the front of the lightweight hammer (and relocated the cocking pin) and shortened the valve stem by about 0.1”. I left the stem proud by 0.125”, a little over half the throat diameter to ensure it has room for adequate lift. BTW, I don’t know if this is a standard practice for others but I square and polish the end of the valve stem so as to minimize wear to the soft face of the hammer. I see practically no wear on those I’ve checked after a lot of use so it definitely doesn’t hurt but I don’t know if it’s really necessary. I’m mentioning it mainly because I see some OEM stems whose ends have been so aggressively beveled that they’re almost sharp. I definitely wouldn’t want to run one of those with an MDS hammer. Upon reassembly, I was able to back off the hammer spring preload a lot. That extra 0.4” of travel makes a huge difference. The cocking effort wasn’t bad before but it’s really nice now. It also seems to have made a noticeable difference in the trigger pull, albeit very slight. It’s a drop sear design so pull weight is not as susceptible to the hammer spring tension as a direct sear but there’s still some friction translated from the sear to the blade. Good stuff.