where the scope is mounting on the barrelband, its a tiny bit higher then where the rear mount of the scope is mounted, so the scope will angle "upwards", I cant imagine they fixed this problem yet, so check that If you mount the scope on the receiver only, you will not have this problem
Ive had this gun, a pp800, and a bandit. All 3 needed the front sight post leveled on the front face where the moderator butts up. All 3 had clipping or accuracy issues due to a canted moderator. Otherwise are very accurate
Yes. I got a Gen 2 last week, and it was having clipping issues. I had to cut the mod to get it apart. Had it in a vice, thew the heat gun on full blast. Would not come apart. I threw the 22 baffles in a 177 can I had off my bandit. Gun was going to a friend. One of the baffles actually got chewed up. Bored out one of my spare 177 baffles and threw back in.Both my spa guns have 1/2"-20 adapters loc tited to the barrels
Quote from: Long_Gun_Dallas on March 21, 2020, 05:58:41 PMYes. I got a Gen 2 last week, and it was having clipping issues. I had to cut the mod to get it apart. Had it in a vice, thew the heat gun on full blast. Would not come apart. I threw the 22 baffles in a 177 can I had off my bandit. Gun was going to a friend. One of the baffles actually got chewed up. Bored out one of my spare 177 baffles and threw back in.Both my spa guns have 1/2"-20 adapters loc tited to the barrelsWas your mod all aluminum? Mine is. I grabbed it with my hand and it screwed right off. Maybe I just got lucky and they missed gluing it.
Just some observations:Keeping score,becasue of the tube/gauge location (and the stock not needing a gauge hole), maybe this one SHOULD have been counted as a Gen. III.Likely stop using those 7.5gr. pellets....be OK for break in,but at the power level these seem to make, heavier pellets would likely turn out better.There is enough room for a full sized scope mounted low....just not a big objective scope. 32MM seems about all you can low mount and still clear the barrel band AND manage the right eye relief. (And even with a 32mm lens, it could have a "knobby" AO ring that sticks out too far.)Might be worth it to figure out why the barrel isn't pointed level.
Quote from: EdinGa on March 21, 2020, 06:47:47 PMQuote from: Long_Gun_Dallas on March 21, 2020, 05:58:41 PMYes. I got a Gen 2 last week, and it was having clipping issues. I had to cut the mod to get it apart. Had it in a vice, thew the heat gun on full blast. Would not come apart. I threw the 22 baffles in a 177 can I had off my bandit. Gun was going to a friend. One of the baffles actually got chewed up. Bored out one of my spare 177 baffles and threw back in.Both my spa guns have 1/2"-20 adapters loc tited to the barrelsWas your mod all aluminum? Mine is. I grabbed it with my hand and it screwed right off. Maybe I just got lucky and they missed gluing it.Yeah, it has a literal ton of loc tite. It barely came off the barrel threads. My bandit one had none on the end cap. This one may as well have been welded on..
Just some observations:Keeping score,becasue of the tube/gauge location (and the stock not needing a gauge hole), maybe this one SHOULD have been counted as a Gen. III.
Quote from: Ribbonstone on March 21, 2020, 06:33:46 PMJust some observations:Keeping score,becasue of the tube/gauge location (and the stock not needing a gauge hole), maybe this one SHOULD have been counted as a Gen. III.I see what you mean. I didn't realize there was a difference in the wood and synthetic version. I'm glad I got this one because it's really easy to tear down and not have to degas for minor things. It came in handy while I was clipping coils on the hammer spring. The gauge is fairly easy to read too.
If the gauge is in front of the tube, it would meaning there is no "plenum" as there is in GEN I And II, meaning this should produce more power...
Be careful, if you take of the bolts that holds the stock, one of those is a M5 12.9 bolt that holds the valve inside the tub, and with 200 bar pressure removing that bolt increases the risk of the valve moving back inside the tube..... Take that as a reminder when removing the stock.. that M5 bolt is holding the weight of a CAR. Of course there is still some dimps inside the tube+one bolt and the TP holding the valve in place, but still removing the safety of 1700kg is not good.I always take down the pressure under 50 bar, then it will be safe to remove that bolt short time when removing the stock, then put it back on again..
If you want to stay at 14FPE, Alteros make a regulator for around $80 that was developed with H.M. and it's a straight drop in the tube install. Pumping to 3K with the reg should give a lot of shots between fills.