Author Topic: Has anyone stripped and redone an airgun stock (Read 2211 times))

bear air · « **on:** February 29, 2020, 09:46:03 PM »

I'm not sure this belongs in the dark side but all my guns are pcp and didn't really see any place else to post. If its better suited somewhere else please feel free to move it moderators. So I want to strip the ugly factory stock on my marauder and make it look better. I was first wanting to use boiled linseed oil but after watching some you tube videos and discovering that it usually takes 7 to 10 days for it to dry between coats that was removed from the possible choices. I was also thinking about just using tru-oil on it but now I'm pondering staining it first but really have no experience or clue what to use. I also watched a you tube video where the guy actually used two different color stains before using the tru-oil. If anyone out there has done it to a stock please post some pics and give me an idea what you used and how you went about doing it. TIA.

Nomadic Pirate · « **Reply #1 on:** February 29, 2020, 09:50:45 PM »

I have stripped and re-done several stocks, even a Marauder once,

In my opinion the wood is of poor quality and don't take stains well, better off just reseal it,...Tung oil is good easy to apply and drys fast, Spray on Minwax Polyurathane also easy to do.

Nomadic Pirate · « **Reply #2 on:** February 29, 2020, 09:57:18 PM »

mackeral5 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 29, 2020, 10:03:48 PM »

Whatever wood is on my p15 stock wouldn't accept a stain no matter what I tried. Ended up black with several coats of wipe on satin clear.

Taso1000 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 29, 2020, 10:10:27 PM »

Hey Chris,

Member Spiralgroove has a thread on the one step finishes. I think he used Minwax PolyShades. There is also the similar Varathane One-Step product.

Beech and some mystery wood stocks don't accept stain evenly and look blotchy from what I have read.

Taso

Taso1000 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2020, 10:15:49 PM »

I found some of his threads:

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=157388.0;nowap

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=93583.0

Thanks,

Taso

mobilehomer · « **Reply #6 on:** February 29, 2020, 10:32:08 PM »

Here is a whole Gate.

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=139.0

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #7 on:** February 29, 2020, 11:10:59 PM »

The Scope Guru, Cyclops Videos by Joe Rhea had several very good youtube vid's on the subject.

You can always do what Kral is doing. People talk about the beautiful stocks they are putting out.

Sadly I know what they are doing, and totally turns me off.

they are buffing or burnishing in nothing more than shoe polish in some areas, and then lightly sanding and finishing. In the Custom Knife world it is considered the lowest of the low methods. Pure trash. but hey, the public is totally beguiled by such poor workmanship.

Knife

rsterne · « **Reply #8 on:** February 29, 2020, 11:18:34 PM »

I have been very pleased with my refinishing of some of the older Crosman stocks.... 140, 1400, 114, etc....

All the above were stripped and then sanded to bare wood, stained with a gel stain (mix of walnut and colonial), and then MANY coats of walnut oil, wetsanded progressively finer, ending up with 600, can then a final coat of walnut minwax….

Bob

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #9 on:** February 29, 2020, 11:27:28 PM »

Mr. Bob, that bottom pic is gorgeous!

Long_Gun_Dallas · « **Reply #10 on:** February 29, 2020, 11:53:30 PM »

I'll second that! ^ They all look fantastic.

I actually have 3 stocks I'm working on. I've gotten pretty darn good with the stripping, feathering, stain removal, and stain application (and manipulation). But the finish, I have trouble with. I'll get it sorted. Just struggling to get my environment particle/dust free.

Yarp · « **Reply #11 on:** March 01, 2020, 12:52:26 AM »

Once you've prepped your stock, consider a shellac finish. It is easy to apply, dries quickly and can be reapplied a few times in a single day. Also, shellac can be pigmented using commonly available alcohol (spirit) stains.

bear air · « **Reply #12 on:** March 01, 2020, 03:17:43 AM »

Thanks everyone for your replies. Manny is that the tung oil on that marauder? That's the look I'm going for, something to make the grain "pop". Thanks for pointing out the wood section Ken, I have never really searched that section of the forum before. Bob those stocks look awesome! Is that the same cheaper beechwood used on marauder stocks as well? I'm such a perfectionist that I'm glad to be asking ahead of time to get some good ideas of what to use. Knife it's always nice to hear of ways not to do something too! I hate how true craftsmanship is truly becoming a thing of the past in todays society quickly being over looked for quicker/easier results. Thanks for all the feedback guys keep it coming. Love those pics as well.

Hoosier Daddy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 01, 2020, 08:27:20 AM »

I have done a few as well.
I use Old fashioned paint stripper, not the new Aerosol or Citrus stuff. I usually strip 3 times to remove all to original finish. Rinse it well with turpentine and medium/fine steel wool. A stiff toothbrush in the checkering if it has any.
Beech and other cheaper woods can come out "blotchy" when stained.
Minwax sells a "Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner" that prepares bare wood for staining.
https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner
You can get it anywhere that sell Minwax stains.

After staining I prefer Tru-oil.
Follow the directions, use a small cloth like a piece of an old T-shirt whetted with the tru-oil and rub it in small (6") sections, in thin coats... keep rubbing it until you feel it heating up and then move to the next overlapping section.
It will dry in a few hours then you buff it with 4 ought (0000) steel wool and recoat the same way. I can usually get 3 coats on a Saturday then let it set overnight, 3 more the next day.
4-6 coats will start to build up nice and if you want a dull (satin) finish gently rub it with the 0000 steel wool and you are done. If you want a deep gloss give it 8-10 coats and let it cure.

Pelletjunkie · « **Reply #14 on:** March 01, 2020, 09:57:45 AM »

Quote from: mackeral5 on February 29, 2020, 10:03:48 PM

Whatever wood is on my p15 stock wouldn't accept a stain no matter what I tried. Ended up black with several coats of wipe on satin clear.

I think you were the guy who said that you think they use diarrhea to stain those chinaguns. I was able to get mine to look decent. Used a stain that I had good luck with staining other &^^& wood with.

bear air · « **Reply #15 on:** March 01, 2020, 10:02:26 AM »

What stain did you use? That stock looks real nice.

mackeral5 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 01, 2020, 10:13:58 AM »

Quote from: Pelletjunkie on March 01, 2020, 09:57:45 AM

Quote from: mackeral5 on February 29, 2020, 10:03:48 PM
Whatever wood is on my p15 stock wouldn't accept a stain no matter what I tried. Ended up black with several coats of wipe on satin clear.
I think you were the guy who said that you think they use diarrhea to stain those chinaguns. I was able to get mine to look decent. Used a stain that I had good luck with staining other &^^& wood with.

Your P15 turned out very nice, very nice indeed I was going for a grey stain, using a min-wax product. After stripping I tried sanding with various grains, I tried the min-wax primer, it just didn't happen for me. So rather than try different stains I tried something. I had a partial can of rustoleum hammered paint, figured worst case I would strip it off if I didn't like it. After a light sanding then 4 coats of wipe on poly I found what I was looking for. I wanted a tough finish, but didn't want a slick finished look, wanted a bit of texture. In the end I was satisfied enough with the results to not re-do it.

One of my favorite guns. Approximately 50 shots of 45fpe, right at 7lbs as pictured.

Pelletjunkie · « **Reply #17 on:** March 01, 2020, 10:17:22 AM »

Minwax Special Walnut 224. When it comes to the final shine I always use Tru-Oil from Birchwood Casey. I like most guys was looking for shortcuts when it comes to that. I wanted to just spray something on a gun from a rattle can. My dad who finished a ton of stocks said don’t. Tru-Oil is designed to endure what a gun goes through. Not just weather but chemicals. You can make it super shiny or go matte just by using fine steel wool on it.

mackeral5 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 01, 2020, 10:25:27 AM »

Quote from: Pelletjunkie on March 01, 2020, 10:17:22 AM

Minwax Special Walnut 224. When it comes to the final shine I always use Tru-Oil from Birchwood Casey. I like most guys was looking for shortcuts when it comes to that. I wanted to just spray something on a gun from a rattle can. My dad who finished a ton of stocks said don’t. Tru-Oil is designed to endure what a gun goes through. Not just weather but chemicals. You can make it super shiny or go matte just by using fine steel wool on it.

Funny that is the stain you used. That used to be my family's go to stain, we did a lot of woodworking in my high school years. My first few gun stocks were done with Min Wax Special Walnut. A crosman branded Cometa Springer, a Savage 840 bolt action 30-30, and an old Mossberg 146b .22lr. I still have the Mossberg. On the old Springer I just rubbed it with linseed oil after staining. It took a while to dry, but in the end was a very "grippy" finish. The rest were brushed with Min Wax satin poly

Pelletjunkie · « **Reply #19 on:** March 01, 2020, 10:33:41 AM »

This grip is off a CP-1 or Bandit. I used Minwax Black Walnut trying to get he grain to pop. Wound up looking like I dropped it in a campfire.

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Has anyone stripped and redone an airgun stock

Author Topic: Has anyone stripped and redone an airgun stock (Read 2211 times))

Nomadic Pirate

Nomadic Pirate