Benjamin Trail lockup loose.

[Mike71]

New Benjamin Trail Elite has been shooting better and better, got about 250 shots on it so far, but keep getting some shots that hit way low.. ok my be the pellets.
Well I found out it's the barrel, if I hold the gun with my legs and one hand at the pivot point and push and pull at the muzzle it will move, not the shroud as I even removed it to make sure, the plunger has lots of tension,  I'll inspect the cross pin it indexes on next..

I've searched but can't seem to find it. Anyone else have this prob ?

[Roadworthy]

I'm unclear on your complaint.  If the barrel moves side to side it's a pivot thing.  You can tighten the pivot screw to a point.  The shoulder of the screw will bottom out on the threads in the fork at some point and you can tighten no further.  Many replace the original plastic pivot washers with brass or bronze.  If these washers are too tight it will pull your barrel off to one side.  I have attached instructions for pivot washer build.  The other possibility is poor latch up of the barrel.  You may need to lube or polish the alive jam.  You could also need a stronger spring.

[Blowpipe Sam]

Hi Mike.  You don't say what type of pellets you are shooting.  I've learned from folks on this forum and now from my own experience that quality pellets do make a big difference.  You may be right about the lockup. But the first place to start on a magnum springer is with the bolts! Use lots of blue Locktight. Tighten up everything! and check every single accessible screw frequently. Hope this helps!

[Mike71]

Crosmen Premier 14.3 domed .22 cal
And yes all bolts are tight and it's not a side to side but and up and down.
If I cock it and lift the barrel and shoot it's on, but if it gets leaned up or the barrel getspushed down it moves that oh so small amount and shoots low like 2" at 25 yards.

I'm only using the Crosmen pellets to break it in and have 3 different JSB pellets on the way and lead balls for the heck of it.

[Blowpipe Sam]

Weird.  Roadworthy knows a lot more about this than me.  I'd go with his advice.  Better pellets should produce more consistent groups and hopefully make diagnosing the problem easier. 

[Bryan Heimann]

Low flyers, dab of moly (real moly) on both sides of the chisel detent may straighten that right up.

[Roadworthy]

As Bryan said, lube the chisel so it can slide freely into position.  Lube on the sliding portion of the chisel which enters the barrel flock may help also.  It MUST slide freely.  Once in a great while the spring itself may be too week.  It is not difficult to replace.  You may wish to remove the barrel and the alive jam to check for fit and smooth operation within the barrel block.  To remove the alive jam once the barrel is out of the gun you need only depress the chisel point and push the short sleeve clear.  You may then remove pressure from the alive jam and the spring inside will push it out.

[Mike71]

Also looking for a few extra breech seals, keep finding O Rings.. other than calling Crosmen where can I find the right part ?

P.S. also the piston seal maybe a good idea to have on hand.

[Roadworthy]

The original breech seal will last a VERY long time.  If you wish to replace it Crosman may be the only game in town.  Since shipping is flat rate don't order just one seal, try to combine the order with other stuff.  As far as piston seals, I don't personally care for Crosman.  I go to Air Rifle Headquarters for those.

[Buldawg76]

I'm unclear on your complaint.  If the barrel moves side to side it's a pivot thing.  You can tighten the pivot screw to a point.  The shoulder of the screw will bottom out on the threads in the fork at some point and you can tighten no further.  Many replace the original plastic pivot washers with brass or bronze.  If these washers are too tight it will pull your barrel off to one side.  I have attached instructions for pivot washer build.  The other possibility is poor latch up of the barrel.  You may need to lube or polish the alive jam.  You could also need a stronger spring.

This is all correct except for the Pivot screw will not bottom out on the threads but rather its head is tapered slightly to correspond to the slight taper of the hole in the unthreaded side of the fork. The pivot screws head will only go so far into the fork before the tapers bind and prevent any further rotation, the pivot screw will still have threads showing on the inside of the fork threaded hole. That's is why its important to measure the fork inside gap with the pivot screw tight to get an accurate dimension for the breech block/washer thickness measurement when fitting the washers. You want about .003 to .005" preload on the breech block/washers when the pivot screws head/fork tapers bind to keep the pivot screw from loosening during use and keep the preload on the breech block joint.

BD

[Mike71]

Thanks guys, ill let you know how it goes after this weekend.

[Mike71]

Pivot screw was loose and the chisel was kinda sticky, cleaned and lubed both and it stays locked up now, but is still a bit soft on the chisel (plunger) and will see about a heavier spring.
Got 700 pellets down it now.. gonna break it down and clean it out, polish things and hope I can remove the piston without any special tools ?
Clean the barrel and start testing my JSBs.
Got the 13-14-15 and 18gr domed pellet..

How many shots can I get from the factory piston seal before it needs a new one ? 2000 rounds ?