Air Arms TX200 gets a PM

[Jason_Garvin]

My original TX 200 in .177 I have been shooting for years, healthy, accurate and solid.  Can't pin when I bought it new, but lets say 8-10 yrs now.  When I received it from the factory, little twangy and oily.  I tore it down, polished the spring ends only, and lubed it with ARH euro tar.  The piston seal received a band of moly paste with the front bearing.  The last month it is still shooting the same as day one, but felt like the cocking was slightly sluggish.  I was rummaging through my machinist box, and found a ARH TX 200 FAC kit in there, so what a better excuse to pull the action down.  Today is rainy, flooded, dark and dreary, so forgive some of the photos, but I snapped a few along the day,

Lets just see what things look like,







The moly past was thick enough it couldn't be removed with a rag, you can see as I scraped through it with a screwdriver,







The comp tube was showing some scouring as seen,





The lower breech seal,



The upper which was a Viton 75 was showing some wear,



Going to work over the piston finish,  I usually start with 300 ish grit, 400, 600, then move to the red pads, dark gray, gray, then finish with the white scotch brite.  This piston was rough as a corn cob,



Here is how I address the comp tube, I install the front bearing on the piston, and wrap painters tape on the rear in front of the flange, then press in until it is tight.  This holds the comp tube while turning,



All my comp tubes inside get a quick cleaning and polish with a scotch brite pad, strapped to a piece of 1/2" delrin.  This is not a replacement for a stone hone,









Going to run a factory soft seal on the bottom, and the brown Viton 75 on top this time,







I went ahead and replaced the bearings, they were showing several thousands less than the new ones in thickness,



ARH seal,



Top picture is a new TX200 factory kit, middle is the FAC ARH kit, bottom is the well broke in kit just pulled from the rifle,



I like to coat the inside of my comp tubes with Super Lube grease, then wipe it out, seems to work well for me,



The breach cleaned up,



I took some photos of different lubes out there, I have only used the Heavy Tar once, it is a mess to remove and I find it dries out in a few years.  I have mainly been using ARH cold tar on ARH kits, which appears to be a moly suspended in grease.  I only apply a small amount on the o.d. of the spring,





Here as some pics of different lubes from ARH for reference, Euro Tars, Cold weather which I use year round, heavy tar, clear tar, and EWG grease.  I use the EWG grease on the comp tubes on the outside, rear bearings, any detents on break barrels including the barrel shims, trigger components.











Euro tar,



Cold weather tar,



Heavy tar,



Clear tar,



EWG grease,





Action back together,













It was almost dark, so I may do a follow up on the FPS.  I did test fire several rounds, it feels like the lock time is real quick, no twang, just a snap.  I remember this was shooting around 880 fps with the AA 8.4 pellets, chrony real quick is showing 840 fps with the same pellets, so this is where I was wanting to head.  Cocking effort is easier.  No spacers or weight in the piston were added, just the kit shown.  I do notice less jump in the rifle.

Hope you enjoy some pics, and more to follow at a later date,

Jason Garvin

And time to play with my Christmas present the kids got me, as they know I like ol square bodies









BTW, the top comes off, tailgate drops, hoods props and shows chrome valve covers and cleaner lid, doors function,

[Rick67]

What a beautiful presentation, Mr. JG!

[KB7PYF]

Jason - I agree!  Excellent documentation and pictures.

Charlie

[jusanothajoe]

Good post, GREAT work.
Hmmm makes me want a TX 

[Yogi]

Jason,

You are so meticulous!  I wish you were my neighbor.

-Y

[Gear_Junkie]

Great post and pics - THANKS JASON!

[prosportfan]

Dude, awesome write up and pictures. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do so.  As for square bodies, well you remember Lone Wolf McQuade?  The power wagon with the super charger?  I remember it was buried in rubble and the super charger or turbo or whatever it had allowed it to power out of the rubble.  Great movie.  Thanks Jason

[jlharden]

Fantastic work as always! I've seen it first hand and Jason's skill and attention to detail are beyond reproach. I'm proud to own one of his beautiful, meticulously tuned TX springers. They shoot every bit as good as they look. You can tune my guns anytime, buddy!

[Jason_Garvin]

Fantastic work as always! I've seen it first hand and Jason's skill and attention to detail are beyond reproach. I'm proud to own one of his beautiful, meticulously tuned TX springers. They shoot every bit as good as they look. You can tune my guns anytime, buddy!

Yep that one is exeptional for sure, I think the barrel is slightly more better than this one.  Tho both are accurate for sure.

Jason

[Jason_Garvin]

Good post, GREAT work.
Hmmm makes me want a TX 

If you don't have one, don't wait.  I love my German guns but everyone should try a TX.  That bearing piston allows it to rotate a bit, and the trigger reach feels shorter.  Not to mention super easy to tear down, and just purty to look at.  I would recommend a HC model in beech, then get it shooting around 12 fpe.  The walnuts feel lighter, but don't shine like the beech unless you do some finish work.

Jason

[Nitrocrushr]

Nice work Jason

[Bodacious]

Excellent refreshment!

[EMrider]

Good post, GREAT work.
Hmmm makes me want a TX 

If you don't have one, don't wait.  I love my German guns but everyone should try a TX.  That bearing piston allows it to rotate a bit, and the trigger reach feels shorter.  Not to mention super easy to tear down, and just purty to look at.  I would recommend a HC model in beech, then get it shooting around 12 fpe.  The walnuts feel lighter, but don't shine like the beech unless you do some finish work.

Jason

Great overview, thanks.

As for eventually buying a TX200, given my love for springers, it really is a question of when, not if.

The cocking shoe has been noted as a weak spot.  Is that still the case, and if so, what is the best remedy?

Thanks
R

[Jason_Garvin]

Good post, GREAT work.
Hmmm makes me want a TX 

If you don't have one, don't wait.  I love my German guns but everyone should try a TX.  That bearing piston allows it to rotate a bit, and the trigger reach feels shorter.  Not to mention super easy to tear down, and just purty to look at.  I would recommend a HC model in beech, then get it shooting around 12 fpe.  The walnuts feel lighter, but don't shine like the beech unless you do some finish work.

Jason

Great overview, thanks.

As for eventually buying a TX200, given my love for springers, it really is a question of when, not if.

The cocking shoe has been noted as a weak spot.  Is that still the case, and if so, what is the best remedy?

Thanks
R

I like to put pics up as I can just for good reading, don't see much pics these days?

I have read just a few times about the shoes cracking, they look like they are hard sintered.  Not sure if they are freak failures or if they are getting racked hard such as during an anti beartrap move.

I bought a backup from ARH has he pain stackingly machines them from tool steel.  Some are hand fitted to address extreme lockup issues.  The OEM part was available for purchase thoe if needed.

Jason

[EMrider]

Good post, GREAT work.
Hmmm makes me want a TX 

If you don't have one, don't wait.  I love my German guns but everyone should try a TX.  That bearing piston allows it to rotate a bit, and the trigger reach feels shorter.  Not to mention super easy to tear down, and just purty to look at.  I would recommend a HC model in beech, then get it shooting around 12 fpe.  The walnuts feel lighter, but don't shine like the beech unless you do some finish work.

Jason

Great overview, thanks.

As for eventually buying a TX200, given my love for springers, it really is a question of when, not if.

The cocking shoe has been noted as a weak spot.  Is that still the case, and if so, what is the best remedy?

Thanks
R

I like to put pics up as I can just for good reading, don't see much pics these days?

I have read just a few times about the shoes cracking, they look like they are hard sintered.  Not sure if they are freak failures or if they are getting racked hard such as during an anti beartrap move.

I bought a backup from ARH has he pain stackingly machines them from tool steel.  Some are hand fitted to address extreme lockup issues.  The OEM part was available for purchase thoe if needed.

Jason

Thanks.  Good to know there are options if that part gives me trouble.

R

[Jason_Garvin]

Some quick numbers are in, from the OEM setup in the TX200 and after installing the near FAC level ARH kit and ARH seal.  Seems to be some real good numbers and right where I was wanting it to plant.  Cocking is easier and less thump on the cycle, not that the TX felt harsh to begin with.  This rifle feels real solid and should shoot well for years,

I didn't have time for paper groups, but some real shots were taken and feel real happy with the result.  Amazing enough, I pulled the scope with the BKL mounts together, and remounted it with zero POI change.........lol......pretty solid mounts the BKL 260's are with a proper set up,

Before tear down,



After rebuild,



50 shot group, see the shine in the center of the target, 25 yds,





A 40 yd shot at a leaf, right where I was aiming, center top pettle,



Jason Garvin

[Harves]

Wonderful post with compete detail & photos.