Marauder degassing...

[Pierre Toutant]

I have a degassing tool that I just got for my Marauder. I know that it isn't necessary to use the tool to degas. But irregardless, when I screw the tool into the rifle it will not degas. I've seen videos where it only needs to be turned a couple of turns and it degasses. The directions say that too. But I can turn mine 4-5 turns and it won't release air at all. The rifle works flawlessly....awesome gun with no issues. I just can't get it to degas?? Any input?

[ShakySarge]

I have a degassing tool that I just got for my Marauder. I know that it isn't necessary to use the tool to degas. But irregardless, when I screw the tool into the rifle it will not degas. I've seen videos where it only needs to be turned a couple of turns and it degasses. The directions say that too. But I can turn mine 4-5 turns and it won't release air at all. The rifle works flawlessly....awesome gun with no issues. I just can't get it to degas?? Any input?

If it’s still in factory setup keep turning it in until it degasses. If it goes all the way in and stops without degassing then you have a problem. It will get tight when it’s about to start letting the air out.

[triggertreat]

The tool rides on the end of the striker bolt which can be at any depth within the hammer ID.  Just turn until it's enough for the valve to open.  It should get tight just before that.

[Ribbonstone]

Just make sure the striker is down/trigger pulled.

[HunterWhite]

Just make sure the striker is down/trigger pulled.

Trigger pulled or it will break the sear.
My degas tool came with this warning!

Hunter

[AlanMcD]

If you have an aftermarket valve or a modified poppet stem length, then the original dimensions are not met and it might not work.  I have had this happen before.

I also wonder if the tool is the same length between Gen I and II . . . .

I typically just loosen the gauge port enough to get a leak and then leave the gun alone for a while to drain.  As long as you stop loosening it once a steady flow is hear, and don't go farther, there are no issues with this approach.  It is how some of the high end guns like Daystate have you do it.

[Frank in Fairfield]

Question for those who used the tool more than once... does the tip on your tool get chewed up over time? Ive used mine once and it seemed to catch the threads in the hammer as well and chewed the tip.

Nope.
Used many times.
Probe as smooth as baby’s bottom...

[Frank in Fairfield]

That looks like a home made degasser to me..
The probe looks quite thick...
Here are mine..
On the left for the pistol
On the right for the rifle (s)..

[HunterWhite]

The link shows a degas tool for the Marauder pistol.
Are you degassing a pistol or rifle?

Hunter

[Frank in Fairfield]

Actually, I just measured the probes for rifle and pistol...
On both, that portion measures the same...:   .101

[Pierre Toutant]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try the degassing tool again and just keep turning. May just have not turned it enough. Like I said, I thought it only should require a couple of turns according to the instructions.
On the same note. Another question. I know that the rifle should be stored with air pressure. This is also according to the instructions and I understand that the purpose is to keep the seals in contact with the sealing surfaces. But is it ok to keep it stored for days....weeks with say 2000 to 2500 psi in the air cylinder?

[triggertreat]

It can be stored for years at those pressures.

[Pierre Toutant]

Thank you....appreciate the help. This is my first PCP and I'm just trying to learn the ropes.
It's an awesome rifle by the way......I'm loving it.

[Frank in Fairfield]

Pierre,
I am still wondering out you got those scratches on your probe.
The probe when releasing air does not go into a hole.
It just presses against the poppet in the valve.
The scratches could only come from the hammer spring but the spring would have to be very crooked or broken.
Unlikely.
Too, there are threads inside of your hammer used by the hammer throw adjustments.
Again, this is unlikely unless your hammer is crooked.
Unlikely, if the pistol is firing.
Do you think the probe came that way from PA?
You could return it but I would put it in a lathe or drill and smooth out those scratches with sand paper before trying to use eit again.
One of our tuners here, Scott, doesn’t use a probe for the Marauders/Crosmans.
Good luck.
He uses a 1/4” rod ((I think) and just sticks it in the back through the hammer and presses against the poppet

[ShakySarge]

Pierre,
I am still wondering out you got those scratches on your probe.
The probe when releasing air does not go into a hole.
It just presses against the poppet in the valve.
The scratches could only come from the hammer spring but the spring would have to be very crooked or broken.
Unlikely.
Too, there are threads inside of your hammer used by the hammer throw adjustments.

The probe doesn’t touch the poppet. It goes through the hammer spring to the back of the hammer to the striker adjustment. Still shouldn’t have deformed though.

[ShakySarge]

One of mine looks about the same. Had it since December of 2012 and used it countless times. I have always wondered how it happens seeing as it isn’t supposed to touch any threaded parts directly except the very rear where it screws into the spring adjuster. My guess is that if the hammer is tilted slightly, it misses the back of the striker and wedges against the threads outside of the striker.

[triggertreat]

One of mine looks about the same. Had it since December of 2012 and used it countless times. I have always wondered how it happens seeing as it isn’t supposed to touch any threaded parts directly except the very rear where it screws into the spring adjuster. My guess is that if the hammer is tilted slightly, it misses the back of the striker and wedges against the threads outside of the striker.

Yes, I think you nailed it.  I have had that happen, too.  I use an orange wire nut on the end of my degas tool, but I don't have strikers in my hammers.  Any nylon washer or nut or anything can be used temporarily to extend the tool or make the tool head broader to prevent an issue or aid in degassing.