The white 5/16" Delrin rod came today. The next poppet will be for my original Liberty and it will be white.
IMHO I don't see why you'd want to keep the metal can and it seems to me that drilling the hole for the stem should be the first step so the poppet face is perfectly square to the stem. But that's just me.
it doesn't take much to drill the hole for the stem a little crooked.
GuysQuestion for you,What is the "C" clip on the shaft used for, to hold the poppet can/head on the shaft,because the inside material of the can/poppet is so soft etc ??Tia,Don
Just a heads up for anyone looking to make a replacement poppet with hand tools, don’t sweat it if you don’t get the hole in the poppet drilled perfectly. You can true the sealing face with sandpaper. Drill a close-fitting hole for the stem in a thick piece of wood…thick enough to support most of the length of the stem, with just a little bit sticking out the other side that you can grab with your drill chuck. Now take a piece of sandpaper and use a hollow punch or leather punch to make a series of holes big enough for the stem can pass through. Lay the sandpaper over the wood and put the stem through both pieces. In other words, trap the sandpaper between the poppet and the piece of wood. Grab the stem from the other side with your drill and spin it to work down the sealing face. Don’t go so fast that the plastic melts. Fine sandpaper will tend to clog so move to a fresh location as needed. It helps to color the surface with a magic marker so you can see the low spots as you go. Once all the marker is gone, you’re good. Try your best to drill the hole in the wood as true (perpendicular the surface) as you can, but even if you are off by few degrees, it will still work. You will end up with a subtle taper to the sealing face but it will be true to the stem. So whether the valve has a flat sealing face or a raised ring, it will seal fine. As usual, it’s a good idea to do a final burnish of the poppet against the valve with a light abrasive. Color the face again with a marker and use that to see how well it’s mating. When the marker is removed uniformly around the full circumference, you know it’s going to seal fine.
Making one from the 5/16" rod. The OD need to be slightly sanded to fit the inside of the metal cup. The drilling method also produced a centered hole through the length of the Delrin I was working with. Looking good to complete poppet #3.
Quote from: FuzzyGrub on September 24, 2019, 08:33:47 AMMaking one from the 5/16" rod. The OD need to be slightly sanded to fit the inside of the metal cup. The drilling method also produced a centered hole through the length of the Delrin I was working with. Looking good to complete poppet #3.What size hole did you drill ..... also what is the length of the Delrin poppet ?Also ------ did you trim back any of the steel poppet shell ?wll
Quote from: wll2506 on September 24, 2019, 12:13:10 PMQuote from: FuzzyGrub on September 24, 2019, 08:33:47 AMMaking one from the 5/16" rod. The OD need to be slightly sanded to fit the inside of the metal cup. The drilling method also produced a centered hole through the length of the Delrin I was working with. Looking good to complete poppet #3.What size hole did you drill ..... also what is the length of the Delrin poppet ?Also ------ did you trim back any of the steel poppet shell ?wllWill, I basically followed the procedure above. The final drill size was a #22, which should be around 0.156". I removed 0.030" from the metal can rim, and the Delrin now extends about 0.035" below the lip of the can.
It's been one of those days! I took the gun down to the basement range, and half way through a mag, the poppet starts a massive leak. I had a picture of Robert's broken poppet in my mind. Tore it down, but the poppet was in tact. It was a piece of broken E-clip stuck between poppet and valve. It put a small ding in the Delrin, but outside of the sealing area.