Weird PP700 stuff

[Backyard Shootr]

I think it is a m10. It measure out at 9.91 but the threads are super fine. I think 0.5mm pitch. The adjusting nut on the hammer spring is the same size but different threads.

[YEMX]

You're right- it seems like an M10, but the threads are finer than anything I can find locally...  I don't mind buying from McMaster Carr, I just need to know the pitch and such.  Thanks for the help!

[screwwork]

threads are threads, dia doesn't matter, find the right thread pitch that matches your threaded part at Lowes and order the 10mm x X.X pitch screw from Mc Master.

[YEMX]

threads are threads, dia doesn't matter, find the right thread pitch that matches your threaded part at Lowes and order the 10mm x X.X pitch screw from Mc Master.

That... That makes NO sense.  Of course diameter/size matters...  a M6 and M10 screw can have the same thread pitch, but are obviously different sizes. 

Lowes, Homer and McMaster don't have a fine enough thread anyway, even if this screw IS an M10.  The finest any of them have is 1.0mm.  I think Backyard Shootr may be correct in thinking this is a .5mm.  The funny part is, I tried to do a search for a M10-0.5 x "..."  screw and came up with nothing.  The finest threads I could find was always 1.0mm.  I just don't know at this point.  Maybe this is just another reason to just make my own silver piece...    I was really considering not making a new silver piece to save some time, effort and money...  But I just keep finding reasons to just make a new one... LOL

[YEMX]

Rallyshark, to be absolutely sure of what you're talking about, which hole are you talking about enlarging:

This one:


Or this one:


Or both?  Also- is the through-bore of the silver piece large enough, or should that be enlarged as well?  I don't want to go too big and have a failure...

Also I read that you (or others?) filled in some of the holes in the valve, except for the one that lines up (or closely lines up) with the rotating breech...  Does that really help, or did it end up not doing much?

[Rallyshark]

threads are threads, dia doesn't matter, find the right thread pitch that matches your threaded part at Lowes and order the 10mm x X.X pitch screw from Mc Master.

Perhaps, Randy was saying to find a screw that the threads matched on, just so you would know the pitch?  Either way, I haven't seen any grub type screws or plugs with a pitch that fine at my local Ace, and they have A LOT of selection. 

I'm sure it would be tedious to make another silver piece, but it would give you a lot more flexibility with things.  The problem with making the plug like I did, is that it has to go in there pretty far to get to the smooth non threaded part for the o-ring to seal.  That means, I still had to utilize holes drilled at an angle, which IS tedious   The good news is that the gun can easily make your power requirements with that method, so you know it can be done

I edited your photos to show, so hopefully it makes more sense.  I did open up the through hole on both silver pieces as shown in my "modified layout" in the diagram I posted earlier.  I did modify the holes in the valve as well where the rotating block fits on the valve too.  I referred to it as "hatsaning" the valve, since that is a common mod with the Hatsan valves.  I don't know that it is entirely necessary, but I do know 1 large hole that is lined up with the transfer port in the rotating block will flow better than 4 smaller holes not lined up.  Also, it eliminates any dead space that must be pressurised before the air makes it to the pellet.  Take that for what its worth.  I don't think that has to be done though.

I also opened up the hole in the nut that holds the valve spring in place as far as I could with it still holding that spring.  I hope all this makes sense  

[Rallyshark]

I also had to do some sanding on the muzzle end of the valve to get the alignment I needed with one of the holes, while also having a good seal of the rotating breech block against the seal at the barrel.  You may not have to do that.   You could also not mod that part of the valve and leave it as is with the multiple holes, and just wait and see if you need to later.  You can always do that later on if you decide to try it, or if you're just looking for a little more improvement after everything else is done. 

[screwwork]

threads are threads, dia doesn't matter, find the right thread pitch that matches your threaded part at Lowes and order the 10mm x X.X pitch screw from Mc Master.

Perhaps, Randy was saying to find a screw that the threads matched on, just so you would know the pitch?   

This is what I was trying to say, (find a screw that the threads matched) and the diameter is whatever your screw size is. Sorry for the confusion.
If you can find a fine pitch in say 5mm * .5 pitch threaded screws you could see if that matched your thread size.

[YEMX]

threads are threads, dia doesn't matter, find the right thread pitch that matches your threaded part at Lowes and order the 10mm x X.X pitch screw from Mc Master.

Perhaps, Randy was saying to find a screw that the threads matched on, just so you would know the pitch?   

This is what I was trying to say...

All good man, that's what I figured you meant, but I wanted to be sure! 

Rallyshark- excellent, I was 90% sure of what you were trying to say, I just needed to clarify on which holes to enlarge exactly.  I'd hate to go to all the effort, just to do it incorrectly.  Trust me, that IS my luck!

[Backyard Shootr]

I could find a Tap & Die for M10 .50 pitch on ebay but cannot find any .50 pitch screws, bolts or anything with that fine of threads. That's why I did what I did. You can buy the Die and make your own plug. If I had access to a lathe I would make a new reg. 
 

[YEMX]

I'm just going to do up a new "reg body".  It seems to be the best solution.  Although, the new version won't really be a reg body so much as a coupler for the reservoir... 

[Rallyshark]

I look forward to seeing what you come up with Tom! 

[titeuf007]

Any news about this tank adapter?
Do you know where we can but it?

[YEMX]

Any news about this tank adapter?
Do you know where we can but it?

I'm going to be using some old Marauder reservoir tube, and use a tank block for a Marauder.  You can get the blocks at New England Airgun.  Not sure what shipping to you would be... 

[KnifeMaker]

I've always thought it would make for  fine little carbine!

[YEMX]

I've always thought it would make for  fine little carbine!

I totally got the idea from someone else- but I want to do my own take on it...  I definitely want to do a folding stock, and though it'll be a touch longer, it'll have a larger plenum, and will use a HW barrel in .22.  I'll keep the front shroud mount the same, but have a new shroud made, as it'll need to be longer. 

[YEMX]

No updates- gun is still in parts.  I haven't forgotten about this project.  I'm currently considering a .20 swap along with a bottle conversion- I MIGHT be able to get a .20 barrel to use.  Hopefully it's still available.  If I don't do a bottle conversion, I'm definitely doing a longer reservoir to match the .20 barrel...  Been wanting a .20 for a bit, this seems like the perfect platform in which to do it. 

[YEMX]

I've got my hands on a .20 barrel!

I'm going to be re-using the Huma reg...  which makes me wonder- Do I really need a lot of tube in front of the regulator?  I obviously would need to have some space between the front of the reg and the rear of the tank block...  But since the tank won't have a reg, the space in front of the reg isn't a plenum per se...  So theoretically, I could go shorter on the tube length, just making sure that there is space between the reg and the rear of the conversion block... Right? 

[Rallyshark]

I've got my hands on a .20 barrel!

I'm going to be re-using the Huma reg...  which makes me wonder- Do I really need a lot of tube in front of the regulator?  I obviously would need to have some space between the front of the reg and the rear of the tank block...  But since the tank won't have a reg, the space in front of the reg isn't a plenum per se...  So theoretically, I could go shorter on the tube length, just making sure that there is space between the reg and the rear of the conversion block... Right?

I think you are right

[YEMX]

Nice!  Depending on how long the barrel will end up being, I could go shorter on the tube if I need to, to put the tank where I need to for balance (and looks)...